I have found with nighttime shooting fully manual and trial and error is the way to go as the camera is basically trying to do some very poor guessing. I would have used this as a baseline image to start adjusting from. My issues are mostly technical with this image since I think this shot has the potential to be a nice night shot.
First this is underexposed even at ISO 1600. Something probably a little closer to correct would be to get 2 more stops of exposure and drop the ISO down to 100. This would put your exposure time at around 15 seconds but you would have an ultra smooth falls and a lot less noise. This would have also brightened up things a lot without blowing out the highlights giving you more to work with in post processing. The darks are really dark so adding 2 stops of exposure wouldn't make them like daylight.
The next thing is image sharpness and an image like this wants to be sharp across the frame. You mentioned that you were shooting auto, that the f-stop was f/4, and that you were using a 2x converter. I assume that this means that you were basically shooting wide open at something between 70mm and 100mm focal length? Either way you would have benefited from stopping the lens down to take the wide open softness out. A 2x converter is also magnifying that softness plus possibly adding in its own defects affecting the image quality. Also by stopping down the lens you would of had an increased depth of field providing more sharpness. However stopping down the lens would require additional exposure time. The use of the 2x converter here isn't doing you any favors as it basically meant that even though the lens was set at f/4 the light getting to the sensor was actually the equivalent of shooting at f/8 but without the benefit of actually stopping down the lens for greater depth of field and overall sharpness. You could stop the lens down an additional stop and that would provide a good benefit but that now would mean that your exposure time goes from 15s to 30s and stopping down more would require additional exposure time using bulb mode. The other option is to get a zoom that covers this range that is reasonably fast (an older f/4 zoom is a good choice) as you can ditch the converter and still stop it down. for example using
this guy or
this guy which would be some good options and shooting them at f/8 you would have a substantial increase in image quality compared to using that 2x converter with the 18mm-55mm wide open at f/4 while still shooting at 15s.
My non technical suggestion is that I want a little bit more to the left. On the right getting the buoy out of the frame would be acceptable as it doesn't add anything so you could just pan left a bit. Lower left just seems like it wants to have the top of the falls be right in the corner instead of as high in the frame and on the lift mid frame the start of the falls seems cramped.