[isin2rt]

I learn alot by your advice and observations -- so anything you can tell me to help me improve I would appreciate. I seem to struggle with focus--sometimes I see pictures on here with crystal clear focus that blows me away! How do you guys do that? Is a tripod ALWAYS the answer? I sometimes think my vision is the problem (I wear contacts) --although would it matter if the auto focus is working?

I especially think the last picture would benefit from sharper focus.

Taken with K200D
Photo 1: 1/100 s @ f/4.5 w/ Tamron 70-300mm
Photo 2: 1/60 s @ f/4.5 w Tamron 70-300mm
Photo 3: 1/1000s @ f/2 w FA Pentax 50mm

Attached Images

     

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Last edited by isin2rt; 11-07-2008 at 08:08 PM.

First question, have you tried adjusting the diopter?

I notice the second two are sharper, this could be because the subject is in the centre where your focusing would be. What did you do with the first one, focus and recompose?
#3 , the eyes are in focus, F2 gives you a fairly shallow DOF.

[isin2rt]

I have tried adjusting the diopter. I think my eyes have a hard time seeing details in such a small window. Maybe they will adjust-- two weeks ago I had a point and shoot,using the LCD screen to compose, so it could just be the adjustment period.
Good point about #1. I cropped that picture, he was much farther away and moving, so I guess he wasn't the center of my focus. But since the kids were all moving I believe I shot on the sports setting so I didn't have to worry about focus. Does that change how the camera reads the scene to focus?
The other two are not cropped and I used a center focus. I guess that shallow focus on #3 IS what I was looking for--but it still looks a tad soft. Maybe camera shake? Or a slightly smaller f stop would help?
So what do you suggest when I have no time to focus and recompose due to the wiggling of the kids? Smaller apperture will make it all in focus -- not really what I want. Is this a metering adjustment?
Sorry if my questions are soooo basic--I'm really new at this. It's great fun despite my ignorance! Maybe moving kids are not where I should begin? (I'm a teacher and they are a very willing audience, anything to not have to crack a book, right?)

I'm afraid I am unfamiliar with the K200 settings so I can't advise you there.
#1, it looks like his hair and ears are in focus so it may be that you just missed it.
#3, like I said, the eyes are in focus and that is the main priority.
Don't be frightened of softness for portraits, it can actually make the shot.
You're right about a smaller aperture but with that you also need the light.
Best way to adjust your diopter is use a tripod and focus on something that is easy for the camera to focus on. Once it is focused, take the shot, then you can adjust the diopter until you can see that it is focused in the viewfinder. To check this, now put it in manual focus and try and take a shot of the same object, again using the tripod. If auto focus and manual focus produce the same sharpness, your diopter is adjusted.
If you're interested, Pentax make a magnifying eyepiece that fits directly over the on camera eyepiece. People who have it seem very happy with it, I'm planning to get one myself as I prefer manually focussing.
Hope this has given you some help.
Did you have shake reduction on by the way?

[isin2rt]

That was very helpful--thank you.
I am expecting a tripod to be delivered any day now and I will do what you suggested. And yes--I had shake reduction on--sad when you can't tell!

[Peter Zack]

Good point about #1. I cropped that picture, he was much farther away and moving, so I guess he wasn't the center of my focus. But since the kids were all moving I believe I shot on the sports setting so I didn't have to worry about focus. Does that change how the camera reads the scene to focus?
The other two are not cropped and I used a center focus. I guess that shallow focus on #3 IS what I was looking for--but it still looks a tad soft. Maybe camera shake? Or a slightly smaller f stop would help?
So what do you suggest when I have no time to focus and recompose due to the wiggling of the kids? Smaller apperture will make it all in focus -- not really what I want. Is this a metering adjustment?
Sorry if my questions are soooo basic--I'm really new at this. It's great fun despite my ignorance! Maybe moving kids are not where I should begin? (I'm a teacher and they are a very willing audience, anything to not have to crack a book, right?)

Gary has given you good advice on the diopter and that will effect your ablity to see if the camera is functioning normally or hitting the focus spots you want.
In #1 I'm seeing a combination of motion blur and the crop. It will soften the image. It's tough with fast acting kids but what you might want to do is use a faster lens when possible, boost the ISO to 400 or 640 and put the camera on AF-C to track the subject. The higher ISO will allow a higher shutter speed to better capture a subject in motion. In that shot, it also appears over exposed and you could have used a faster shutter speed to help keep things sharp.

The second shot looks good and I like the composition. But here we see a subject with less movement. For outdoor shots that move quickly, a monopod may help a great deal. I'll often use that or use my tripod in an unusual way. I'll mount the camera on the tripod and loosen the head. It offers stabilizing support but allows me to move and react quickly.

In the third and first shots, I think the shallow DOF is part of the issue. The sharp region is very thin and not helping you. Plus lenses tend to be softer at wide apertures. Try boosting the ISO a bit to allow you to boost the shutter speed a little and also close the aperture down some. I'm actually surprised at the slow speed in the first shot with what looks like very good light. is that a typo because the speed in the 3rd shot is listed as 1/1000th and it looks like the first shot was brighter. But the light is behind the subject. It helps with the harshness of the sun but not with the speed settings.

Prime lenses (50mm) will be sharper than many zooms and you should avoid using a zoom at it's extremes. For example, it's usually sharper with a 50-200mm set at 180mm instead of 200mm. Pull it back a bit and you'll see sharper results. Use spot focus for fast subjects or when you want to isolate a subject. Multi point can choose the wrong person. Spot focus on the eyes. Learn to shooting in AV mode or better yet Manual. The auto settings are fine but you need to control the camera and not let it make the choices. Particularly when the subject is moving fast.

[Peter Zack]

You asked about the aperture and metering adjustment. This is part of the triad. ISO, Shutter and aperture. If you close down the aperture, you have to slow the shutter to get the same exposure (less light coming in needs more time to expose the sensor/film the same). If you need the same shutter speed and want a more closed aperture, your only options are 1) increase the sensitivity of the sensor by increasing the ISO or 2) add extra light like a reflector, flash etc.

If you are uncertain about this and the relationships, Just ask. I or others will be happy to assist.

Alos remember that even the finest lenses will not perform their best when wide open. Some are really very good when wide but most are better stopped down 1 or 2 notches which means an increase in ISO or decrease in shutter speed. Consider using fill flash. Even the pop p flash can do a very good job to add a little light to a scene and help freeze the action. Does the K200D have a flash compensation adjustment? The K10 and K20 both have the ablity to turn the flash down a little to reduce the effect of a 'flash look'.

[isin2rt]

Thank you for that. I will be pouring over that for awhile --lots of good information.
I went back to verify--the first shot WAS 1/100s, and the ISO was 200, so I can see where moving it up to 400 would have helped with the shutter speed.

I appreciate the advice to learn to shoot in Av mode or manual also. I've been trying manual --but when I get unsure and just want to keep shooting I fall back on the camera's help. I think making myself practice in one mode to really get an understanding of the effects of shutter/aperture/ISO is really good advice.

The K200D does have flash compensations +/- 3 and I guess I forgot about using flash to stop the action. I really wanted to go without a flash -- but you're right, I can control the amount so I might as well experiment with using it to freeze my subject. Yelling at the kids to FREEZE hasn't helped much and has caused some dreadful expressions in the photos.
Thanks for all your help!

[Peter Zack]

No problem, the main thing is to keep learning and trying things out. Test different methods when there's no pressure. Go ot on the backyard and fire off 50 shots just experimenting with various settings on both the camera and the lens.

Some of us have had cameras since we were teenagers and have made something of a study of this. Those cameras forced you to learn everything manual including judging light levels. It takes time and just going out to have fun with the camera. Auto modes are fine and a good way to work quickly, they also make the process less intimidating until you are ready to shoot in more controlled or creative ways. A very good book on the subject is Bryan Peterson's "Understanding Exposure" I don;t agree with all of it but it's an excellent way to expand your understanding. Christmas is coming, maybe drop a hint to someone...

[isin2rt]

I was reading one of the photography books I have and it mentioned that if you are having a hard time getting sharp focus to check the settings on the camera --the "high ISO noise reduction" and the "Slow shutter speed NR" were both on for my camera. I turned them off and I went out to try some practice shots. I saw a big difference. So maybe that was part of my problem with focus! "I'd show you my proof but you've probably seen enough close ups of leaves to last you a lifetime. I'm also experiementing with different ISO's and shutter speeds --thanks again for helping me understand all this.

If I can offer another piece of advice that has helped me since I have been a member of this forum. I learned so much so quickly just by looking and commenting on other peoples pictures. It really gets the brain working analysing what you are looking at and trying to be constructive with ones comments and, big bonus (for me anyway), it helps one with critiquing one's own pictures.

[isin2rt]

Thanks for that suggestion. I do read other people's comments and suggestions and get so much out of the view points. It reminds me of being in college many years ago, taking drawing and painting classes, and learning through the critiques. I also realize everything I learned then about composition, line, color, subtlety, still applies even though it's in a different form. All of this visual stimulation is whetting my appetite for drawing again too. But I will try what you suggested -- I can see where studying someone else's photos can help me with my own.
Thanks again.

[Stratman]

I really like #3. #1 has a bit of a blown out background, but that was a tough shot to get the exposure right. I struggle with these situations all the time meself, hehe.

[leadbelly]

The first shot is pretty OOF, I like the second shot. The third, is good but I think the shot should have been taken at his eye level. Feels uncomfortable (to me!) to look down on him like that... One thing I learned apprenticing with established photographers is, when doing portraits, always focus on their eyes...

[isin2rt]

I agree with what you said about the last one--poor kid had me towering over him. I have a bad knee right now that isn't allowing me to get low right now...so I must intimidate instead! Thanks for the feedback --it gives me alot to consider.