Kiwi Pentaxians

**GUB** · 08-24-2018, 11:59 PM

Think it is FA 50 1.7 Pentax SFXn | Trade Me

Transit · 08-25-2018, 03:18 AM

yep that be an FA 1.7...nice

krebss · 08-25-2018, 03:27 AM

Originally posted by GUB

Think it is FA 50 1.7 Pentax SFXn | Trade Me

Most likely.
I'm quite guttered as the guy had a lovely collection of Canon film gear which I was super keen on and just as I made, what I thought to be a low but reasonable offer ($400 while it was probably worth more like $600), he had already accept $150 like 5min ago

Listings weren't even there since an hour.
I'm keen on the 50mm but won't go crazy as it's a focal length I've always struggled with.

**GUB** · 08-25-2018, 03:50 AM

Originally posted by krebss

Most likely.
I'm quite guttered as the guy had a lovely collection of Canon film gear which I was super keen on and just as I made, what I thought to be a low but reasonable offer ($400 while it was probably worth more like $600), he had already accept $150 like 5min ago

Listings weren't even there since an hour.
I'm keen on the 50mm but won't go crazy as it's a focal length I've always struggled with.

Yeah but one day you might go FF!!
Having said that I prefer my A 50 1.7s. I think it is the precision of focusing when you get used to MF

Class A · 08-25-2018, 04:31 AM

Hi GUB,

did you see my earlier post?

**GUB** · 08-25-2018, 01:10 PM

Originally posted by Class A

Hi GUB,

did you see my earlier post?

Yeah and I didn't respond - sorry!. Na I need the OK button for LV magnification. Or is there a workaround for that? Once you push it you can zoom out with the rear edial but it takes the OK button to initialise. I put in a post in one of those firmware upgrade threads once but didn't get a response from anyone thinking it was an issue - guess I am the only hamfisted one out there!!. All it needs is on option without the "OK" included.

Class A · 08-25-2018, 10:16 PM

Originally posted by GUB

Na I need the OK button for LV magnification. Or is there a workaround for it?

The workaround would be to unlock every time you need the OK button and then to lock again.

Can't think of anything else.

**GUB** · 08-26-2018, 04:16 AM

Originally posted by Class A

The workaround would be to unlock every time you need the OK button and then to lock again.

Can't think of anything else.

You would think it would be a nobrainer menu option to disable all the buttons that are largely irrelevant to Raw processing. You would still be able to access them via the menu system should need to change them for some weird reason. Yes I know there can be a small advantage for the Raw developer to open at roughly the right colour temperature etc but I value having a consistent start point more - not finding you have accidentally bumped the colour setting to bright half way through your shoot. Even the shutter option button could be disabled with the options available in the menu (or on the new mode dial on the K1) The other day i was confused as hell - I kept getting ghost images remaining on the screen - I thought the memory card or something had crapped out!! Na - I had bumped the shutter option to multiexposure - took me ages to find coz I don't use it and didn't know it was there.

**zkarj** · 08-26-2018, 02:38 PM - **2 Likes**

Gotta love the high ISO capabilities of the latest bodies (I know, I know, ISO invariance). The wife and I went to Zealandia again on Sunday (my third visit). I really wanted to spot some tieke (saddleback), and I did — just — but the highlight of the visit was a very close encounter with a pair of hihi (stitchbird).

ISO9000 (I let it float from 100-9000), f/8, 1/90th. The little fella got within a metre of me at one point. The lens was my kit 18-135.

Also for those interested in a recent discussion on watermarks, this image shows my latest incarnation.

Kiwizinho · 08-26-2018, 03:14 PM

Originally posted by zkarj

Gotta love the high ISO capabilities of the latest bodies (I know, I know, ISO invariance). The wife and I went to Zealandia again on Sunday (my third visit). I really wanted to spot some tieke (saddleback), and I did — just — but the highlight of the visit was a very close encounter with a pair of hihi (stitchbird).

ISO9000 (I let it float from 100-9000), f/8, 1/90th. The little fella got within a metre of me at one point. The lens was my kit 18-135.

Also for those interested in a recent discussion on watermarks, this image shows my latest incarnation.

Impressive for that high ISO. I'd be quite happy with ISO6400 as that would cover most of what I want to do. It certainly makes a case for a body upgrade in the near future.

Given how much less than expected I got the big Tamron for, it just about puts the KP back in contention again, although I think the K-70 and KP are both pretty good for high ISO looking at the reviews, and the more substantial grip on the k-70 might feel a bit more secure with something like an RPG launcher hanging off the front.

I've actually used TAV mode a bit recently with auto ISO between 100-1600 on the K-50 and found it quite handy. I still probably prefer AV mode most of the time, but in situations where subject types can change quickly, having the control wheels set for shutter and aperture, it makes it much faster to change settings between more of a landscape type image and an action shot, which can happen quite easily if you're going for a walk in bush with bird life around. In AV mode, I have a dial set for ISO and one for aperture, so if I need to dial up the shutter speed in a hurry it can be a bit more hit and miss, if I quickly want a specific minimum shutter speed.

**GUB** · 08-26-2018, 03:55 PM

You gotta be happy with that shot!
The shot brings up something I notice with small birds. Look at the eyes,beak ,feet - they are tack sharp. And yet the body despite being on the same plane of focus doesn't appear quite as sharp. Is it just an illusion because of the feather texture or do they perhaps tremor a little with their tiny but super high metabolisms.
As for Iso-invariance- naaa --- hi Iso performance is not what that is about. It is about the ability to apply image gain in the computer afterwards. Requirements - Raw and Manual settings. It is a subtle to no change in outright image quality but makes for quite a mindset change out shooting. The only gain in this image from utilising it would be the ability to retains perhaps some detail in the white blaze.

**zkarj** · 08-26-2018, 04:03 PM

Originally posted by Kiwizinho

Impressive for that high ISO.

I should note that shot is "fully processed" including significant noise reduction. The beauty of the situation is that the noise I see from high ISO on the KP is actually quite pleasant to look at. Not like what I used to get when pushing the K10D. That was just ugly. Below is a full-sized sample direct from the DNG where the noise is most obvious. I do still reduce it, but it's easy to pass off as texture up to a point.

---------- Post added 08-27-2018 at 11:29 AM ----------

Originally posted by GUB

You gotta be happy with that shot!

Indeed! It wasn't the only good shot, either. Most of the fails were down to partial obstruction behind foliage — my approach in such situations is take plenty and hopefully some will work!

Originally posted by GUB

The shot brings up something I notice with small birds. Look at the eyes,beak ,feet - they are tack sharp. And yet the body despite being on the same plane of focus doesn't appear quite as sharp. Is it just an illusion because of the feather texture or do they perhaps tremor a little with their tiny but super high metabolisms.

I have seen that, and I think you're probably right. I've got a shot of a tui that's super sharp, including where you can see the edges of the primaries, but the white bits are somewhat fuzzy. I think it's down to overall resolution. An edge can be super sharp at low resolution far moreso than a fine line.

Originally posted by GUB

As for Iso-invariance- naaa --- hi Iso performance is not what that is about. It is about the ability to apply image gain in the computer afterwards. Requirements - Raw and Manual settings. It is a subtle to no change in outright image quality but makes for quite a mindset change out shooting. The only gain in this image from utilising it would be the ability to retains perhaps some detail in the white blaze.

Yeah, not for me, I don't think. And yes, the blaze was the one properly blown area. Not that I was too concerned with that!

**zkarj** · 08-27-2018, 05:09 PM

I had another look at the shot and decided some of my processing had adversely affected the feather texture. So I have gone back and brushed out the damaging processing from the feather area, as well as brushing in some sharpening. I'm not sure it has a huge effect at this size, where the scale is causing some of the blur, but on my 2000 pixel version it looks markedly crisper.

MarkJerling · 08-27-2018, 05:26 PM

Originally posted by GUB

Think it is FA 50 1.7 Pentax SFXn | Trade Me

Someone has an autobid on that.

**GUB** · 08-27-2018, 06:14 PM

Originally posted by zkarj

I had another look at the shot and decided some of my processing had adversely affected the feather texture. So I have gone back and brushed out the damaging processing from the feather area, as well as brushing in some sharpening. I'm not sure it has a huge effect at this size, where the scale is causing some of the blur, but on my 2000 pixel version it looks markedly crisper.

Yes that has made a difference - was it denoise?

08-26-2018, 04:03 PM	#15282
zkarj Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Wellington Posts: 1,290	Originally posted by Kiwizinho Impressive for that high ISO. I should note that shot is "fully processed" including significant noise reduction. The beauty of the situation is that the noise I see from high ISO on the KP is actually quite pleasant to look at. Not like what I used to get when pushing the K10D. That was just ugly. Below is a full-sized sample direct from the DNG where the noise is most obvious. I do still reduce it, but it's easy to pass off as texture up to a point. ---------- Post added 08-27-2018 at 11:29 AM ---------- Originally posted by GUB You gotta be happy with that shot! Indeed! It wasn't the only good shot, either. Most of the fails were down to partial obstruction behind foliage — my approach in such situations is take plenty and hopefully some will work! Originally posted by GUB The shot brings up something I notice with small birds. Look at the eyes,beak ,feet - they are tack sharp. And yet the body despite being on the same plane of focus doesn't appear quite as sharp. Is it just an illusion because of the feather texture or do they perhaps tremor a little with their tiny but super high metabolisms. I have seen that, and I think you're probably right. I've got a shot of a tui that's super sharp, including where you can see the edges of the primaries, but the white bits are somewhat fuzzy. I think it's down to overall resolution. An edge can be super sharp at low resolution far moreso than a fine line. Originally posted by GUB As for Iso-invariance- naaa --- hi Iso performance is not what that is about. It is about the ability to apply image gain in the computer afterwards. Requirements - Raw and Manual settings. It is a subtle to no change in outright image quality but makes for quite a mindset change out shooting. The only gain in this image from utilising it would be the ability to retains perhaps some detail in the white blaze. Yeah, not for me, I don't think. And yes, the blaze was the one properly blown area. Not that I was too concerned with that! Attached Images Last edited by zkarj; 08-26-2018 at 04:06 PM. Reason: typo

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Kiwi Newbie :)	Heidi	Welcomes and Introductions	15	01-13-2011 09:04 PM
Another Kiwi has landed	zk-cessnaguy	Welcomes and Introductions	5	11-22-2010 05:00 AM
Another G'Day from an Oz Kiwi	Tonto	Welcomes and Introductions	4	04-26-2010 12:44 AM
Hi From yet another Kiwi	Scott NZ	Welcomes and Introductions	4	06-14-2009 07:24 PM
Kiwi sharp shooter (aspirations...)	K-xx-500-user	Welcomes and Introductions	11	10-07-2008 09:26 AM

08-24-2018, 11:59 PM	#15271
GUB Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Wanganui Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 5,751	Think it is FA 50 1.7 Pentax SFXn \| Trade Me

08-25-2018, 03:18 AM	#15272
Transit Pentaxian Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Whanganui NZ Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 4,624	yep that be an FA 1.7...nice

08-25-2018, 03:27 AM	#15273
krebss Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Christchurch, New Zealand Posts: 43	Originally posted by GUB Think it is FA 50 1.7 Pentax SFXn \| Trade Me Most likely. I'm quite guttered as the guy had a lovely collection of Canon film gear which I was super keen on and just as I made, what I thought to be a low but reasonable offer ($400 while it was probably worth more like $600), he had already accept $150 like 5min ago Listings weren't even there since an hour. I'm keen on the 50mm but won't go crazy as it's a focal length I've always struggled with.

08-25-2018, 03:50 AM	#15274
GUB Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Wanganui Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 5,751	Originally posted by krebss Most likely. I'm quite guttered as the guy had a lovely collection of Canon film gear which I was super keen on and just as I made, what I thought to be a low but reasonable offer ($400 while it was probably worth more like $600), he had already accept $150 like 5min ago Listings weren't even there since an hour. I'm keen on the 50mm but won't go crazy as it's a focal length I've always struggled with. Yeah but one day you might go FF!! Having said that I prefer my A 50 1.7s. I think it is the precision of focusing when you get used to MF

08-25-2018, 04:31 AM	#15275
Class A Pentaxian Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Wellington, New Zealand Posts: 11,251 Original Poster	Hi GUB, did you see my earlier post?

08-25-2018, 01:10 PM	#15276
GUB Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Wanganui Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 5,751	Originally posted by Class A Hi GUB, did you see my earlier post? Yeah and I didn't respond - sorry!. Na I need the OK button for LV magnification. Or is there a workaround for that? Once you push it you can zoom out with the rear edial but it takes the OK button to initialise. I put in a post in one of those firmware upgrade threads once but didn't get a response from anyone thinking it was an issue - guess I am the only hamfisted one out there!!. All it needs is on option without the "OK" included.

08-25-2018, 10:16 PM	#15277
Class A Pentaxian Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Wellington, New Zealand Posts: 11,251 Original Poster	Originally posted by GUB Na I need the OK button for LV magnification. Or is there a workaround for it? The workaround would be to unlock every time you need the OK button and then to lock again. Can't think of anything else.

08-26-2018, 04:16 AM	#15278
GUB Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Wanganui Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 5,751	Originally posted by Class A The workaround would be to unlock every time you need the OK button and then to lock again. Can't think of anything else. You would think it would be a nobrainer menu option to disable all the buttons that are largely irrelevant to Raw processing. You would still be able to access them via the menu system should need to change them for some weird reason. Yes I know there can be a small advantage for the Raw developer to open at roughly the right colour temperature etc but I value having a consistent start point more - not finding you have accidentally bumped the colour setting to bright half way through your shoot. Even the shutter option button could be disabled with the options available in the menu (or on the new mode dial on the K1) The other day i was confused as hell - I kept getting ghost images remaining on the screen - I thought the memory card or something had crapped out!! Na - I had bumped the shutter option to multiexposure - took me ages to find coz I don't use it and didn't know it was there.

08-26-2018, 03:14 PM	#15280
Kiwizinho Pentaxian Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Blenheim Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,290	Originally posted by zkarj Gotta love the high ISO capabilities of the latest bodies (I know, I know, ISO invariance). The wife and I went to Zealandia again on Sunday (my third visit). I really wanted to spot some tieke (saddleback), and I did — just — but the highlight of the visit was a very close encounter with a pair of hihi (stitchbird). ISO9000 (I let it float from 100-9000), f/8, 1/90th. The little fella got within a metre of me at one point. The lens was my kit 18-135. Also for those interested in a recent discussion on watermarks, this image shows my latest incarnation. Impressive for that high ISO. I'd be quite happy with ISO6400 as that would cover most of what I want to do. It certainly makes a case for a body upgrade in the near future. Given how much less than expected I got the big Tamron for, it just about puts the KP back in contention again, although I think the K-70 and KP are both pretty good for high ISO looking at the reviews, and the more substantial grip on the k-70 might feel a bit more secure with something like an RPG launcher hanging off the front. I've actually used TAV mode a bit recently with auto ISO between 100-1600 on the K-50 and found it quite handy. I still probably prefer AV mode most of the time, but in situations where subject types can change quickly, having the control wheels set for shutter and aperture, it makes it much faster to change settings between more of a landscape type image and an action shot, which can happen quite easily if you're going for a walk in bush with bird life around. In AV mode, I have a dial set for ISO and one for aperture, so if I need to dial up the shutter speed in a hurry it can be a bit more hit and miss, if I quickly want a specific minimum shutter speed.

08-26-2018, 03:55 PM	#15281
GUB Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Wanganui Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 5,751	You gotta be happy with that shot! The shot brings up something I notice with small birds. Look at the eyes,beak ,feet - they are tack sharp. And yet the body despite being on the same plane of focus doesn't appear quite as sharp. Is it just an illusion because of the feather texture or do they perhaps tremor a little with their tiny but super high metabolisms. As for Iso-invariance- naaa --- hi Iso performance is not what that is about. It is about the ability to apply image gain in the computer afterwards. Requirements - Raw and Manual settings. It is a subtle to no change in outright image quality but makes for quite a mindset change out shooting. The only gain in this image from utilising it would be the ability to retains perhaps some detail in the white blaze.

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
	Search this Thread: Advanced Search

08-27-2018, 05:26 PM	#15284
MarkJerling Moderator Site Supporter Join Date: May 2012 Location: Wairarapa, New Zealand Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 20,402	Originally posted by GUB Think it is FA 50 1.7 Pentax SFXn \| Trade Me Someone has an autobid on that.

08-27-2018, 06:14 PM	#15285
GUB Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Wanganui Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 5,751	Originally posted by zkarj I had another look at the shot and decided some of my processing had adversely affected the feather texture. So I have gone back and brushed out the damaging processing from the feather area, as well as brushing in some sharpening. I'm not sure it has a huge effect at this size, where the scale is causing some of the blur, but on my 2000 pixel version it looks markedly crisper. Yes that has made a difference - was it denoise?