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05-16-2022, 06:15 PM   #18841
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QuoteOriginally posted by MarkJerling Quote
Don't think so for the green button. Funny thing was, when I first moved the aperture ring, the camera did not seem to compensate the view when pointing the lens to a dark corner. But, all subsequent times I tried it, it did. I've not tried this with a M type lens, so must look how that differs.
My K01 and K-1 and Ks1 behave the same with M lenses. That is they autobrighten. So like an "A" lens set on the ring.
With a DA 50 1.8 on the K01 and the Ks1 it auto brightens but doesn't on the K-1. So confusing.
With the DA 50 1.8 set to f11 and on liveview the lens physically is -
On the K01 it is wide open
On the Ks1 it is at that sort of default setting about f4
On the K1 it is at f11

And a FA 50 set to "A" performs the same as the DA

EDIT but maybe the DFA line work different with the firmware upgrade. Otherwise with the K1 going without the ring is a bit of a retrograde step in some situations.


Last edited by GUB; 05-16-2022 at 06:26 PM.
05-16-2022, 06:58 PM - 2 Likes   #18842
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QuoteOriginally posted by GUB Quote
Is this difference (using "A" vs the ring) discussed anywhere Kiwizinho ?
I haven't seen it discussed anywhere, but I did have the issue with live view being dark when in A mode and selecting a small aperture, but I went out and tested using the aperture ring and everything was nice and bright on screen.

With the extension tubes on, both the 90mm Tamron and 100mm D-FA are equally good.

Here's a test from the veggie garden. Largest cap is about 3.5mm across. Plum stone in background for scale, no cropping.

05-16-2022, 07:20 PM   #18843
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QuoteOriginally posted by Kiwizinho Quote
I haven't seen it discussed anywhere, but I did have the issue with live view being dark when in A mode and selecting a small aperture, but I went out and tested using the aperture ring and everything was nice and bright on screen.

With the extension tubes on, both the 90mm Tamron and 100mm D-FA are equally good.

Here's a test from the veggie garden. Largest cap is about 3.5mm across. Plum stone in background for scale, no cropping.
But if you have the DFA100mm 2.8 WR then there is no aperture ring. Thinking you must have ended up taking the shot at full aperture (f32)
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05-16-2022, 07:22 PM - 1 Like   #18844
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QuoteOriginally posted by GUB Quote
But if you have the DFA100mm 2.8 WR then there is no aperture ring.
No that was with the Tamron. f/16 on the aperture ring. Much easier than some previous efforts with the D-FA (or Tamron for that matter in A mode) when I couldn't see a thing in live view.

---------- Post added 05-17-22 at 02:37 PM ----------

Next step is to stick the Tamron on the K-50 with ABF. Mostly I don't need 24Mpixel macro images. Even the 16 Mpixel K-50 images are more than adequate for macro as I'm not going to print wall sized images of fungi and bugs, and it will save some hard drive space. If I'm using the aperture ring, then the ABF shouldn't be an issue, and apart from that, it's still a great camera, and I can leave it ready to go when I find interesting macro subjects, as 90/10mm probably aren't my first choice to leave on my main camera, but it's annoying when I find some interesting macro subject out in the garden then have to change lenses, put on the ring-flash, and half the time if it was some creature, it's gone by the time I get back.

05-16-2022, 08:45 PM   #18845
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QuoteOriginally posted by Kiwizinho Quote
No that was with the Tamron. f/16 on the aperture ring. Much easier than some previous efforts with the D-FA (or Tamron for that matter in A mode) when I couldn't see a thing in live view.

---------- Post added 05-17-22 at 02:37 PM ----------

Next step is to stick the Tamron on the K-50 with ABF. Mostly I don't need 24Mpixel macro images. Even the 16 Mpixel K-50 images are more than adequate for macro as I'm not going to print wall sized images of fungi and bugs, and it will save some hard drive space. If I'm using the aperture ring, then the ABF shouldn't be an issue, and apart from that, it's still a great camera, and I can leave it ready to go when I find interesting macro subjects, as 90/10mm probably aren't my first choice to leave on my main camera, but it's annoying when I find some interesting macro subject out in the garden then have to change lenses, put on the ring-flash, and half the time if it was some creature, it's gone by the time I get back.
I have been keeping an eye out for ABF cameras on TM.
Got a K30, K50 and just recently a Ks2. They work fine with the old glass.
05-17-2022, 02:39 PM   #18846
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QuoteOriginally posted by GUB Quote
I have been keeping an eye out for ABF cameras on TM.
Got a K30, K50 and just recently a Ks2. They work fine with the old glass.
They still offer plenty more automation than many film cameras from MF days, and I managed to take plenty of good photos with my old P50, so losing AF and auto aperture doesn't bother me for landscapes, portraits, or macro, although I like the convenience of AF and auto aperture for moving subjects against unevenly lit backgrounds.

I'm keeping an eye out for M43 mount primes to use with the K-50.
K mount is more convenient to change, but since I was given the Spotmatic F in pristine condition, I'd like a set of primes I can use on it as I'll likely run some film through it at some point.
I have the 55/1.8 that came with the Spotmatic F I was given, and a 135/3.5, just need a 28 and a 35 and maybe a 200 to have a complete vintage prime kit.
I know someone with a Takumar 85/1.8 that I might be able to convince them to part with, and at least I know they'll loan it to me.

There's a super Tak 35 on TM at the moment that I've got my eye on, but it's got a few watchers, and I'm not sure how high it will go. Those old lenses can go for absolute bargains, or ridiculous prices, and it's hard to know which way they'll go.
05-17-2022, 05:50 PM - 1 Like   #18847
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QuoteOriginally posted by Kiwizinho Quote
There's a super Tak 35 on TM at the moment that I've got my eye on, but it's got a few watchers,
These tend to go reasonably cheaply. There is a tak 28 3.5 on too at the mo - they go for a little more. I find that with the 28mm I don't tend to use the 35mms I have. But that is FF.
Those 28s have to be the most beautiful Taks of the bunch and their performance is almost identical to the M 28 3.5s.
Also another AF TC is on at the mo
Trade Me
Important to realise that the Teleconverter is only useful for K mount.
Also this !!!! Trade Me

05-18-2022, 07:41 PM   #18848
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good grief
05-19-2022, 12:35 AM - 1 Like   #18849
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QuoteOriginally posted by GUB Quote
Also this !!!! Trade Me
Subtle difference in pricing between the 2 kits being offered
05-19-2022, 10:27 PM   #18850
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Good price
https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/electronics-photography/camera-acces...9?bof=52HEaRNW
05-21-2022, 08:37 PM - 2 Likes   #18851
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When trying to get used to the colder weather, it is good to remind ourselves there are always silver linings. This tree is not far from my house and it catches my eye every time I drive past. Taken with the FA 50 1.4 at f/4. Three frame bracket (+/-1) processed in Aurora HDR.

05-23-2022, 05:08 PM   #18852
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Wow! Yeah, hard to miss.
05-24-2022, 01:36 AM   #18853
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I got to wondering again today whether the Pentax DA* 300 F4 would offer me any real advantages in birding shots. As we all know, the trade-off for more light in a wider aperture is reduced depth of field. There's only so much I can really glean from plugging in numbers to a DOF converter, so I built a spreadsheet to help me visualise the situation.

The result is below. The horizontal scale is focus distance, ranging from 1 to 15 metres. The vertical scale is in millimetres; the solid lines represent the depth of field in front (lower line) and behind (upper line) the focus distance, the dotted lines give some context by denoting the absolute size of the horizontal field of view at that focus distance. For example, you can see on the far right that at 15 m distance, the absolute depth of field is under half of the width of the scene recorded (this is using an APS-C sensor).

Then I sought to apply this to the subject at hand, starting with the f/4 aperture (in the first graph). A Tieke is ~25 cm long, and let's say it's reasonable to suggest a 10 cm DOF is required. If try to fill the frame with the bird, then this is achieved at about 3 m focus distance. However, at that distance, the DOF is way too narrow. By the time we get 10 cm DOF, around 7.5 m away, the field of view is now ~60 cm wide, meaning the Tieke is now around 41% of the frame width. This is probably not far off the kind of distance I usually achieve, though I'm always striving for the closer shots!

Now compare to f/8 in the second graph, which is the aperture I currently shoot at with the 55-300 PLM, then we achieve the 10 cm DOF at 5.5 m, when the Tieke will be at 56% of the frame a marked improvement with the bird over a third larger in the scene.

In summary, it seems like the f/4 option would work reasonably well for the more distant shots (and the prime lens would arguably lend more resolution as well) but could be limiting for luckier close-in shots, where it would make sense if time and presence of mind allows to stop down somewhat.
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06-06-2022, 02:51 PM - 1 Like   #18854
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I think LBA needs to be updated to GBA in my case, as I bought something that wasn't a lens; a flash. There was method in my madness. I have lenses that cover every focal length from 10mm -500mm although some are definitely better than others.
I caught a local community newspaper ( a different one from last time) red handed copying some of my content (text not images this time), ironically at the same time as they were advertising for a part time reporter, so I had a meeting with their editor who apologised profusely, and I suggested that if they liked my content so much, maybe they should pay for it, which he readily agreed to.
One of the most popular features of community papers is people getting their mugshots on the pages at various events, and currently the editor has to cover all events himself, so he was happy with the idea of having backup.
This isn't fine art, it's just quick and dirty, so mucking around with manual flash power settings for different subject distances isn't really an option, so I figured I needed a P-TTL flash for P&S flash power, with something a bit better than the popup flash on the K-70.
I've managed to score a Pentax AF540FGZ II at an affordable price, which I'm pretty happy about as this seems to be the best Pentax branded flash, but normally costs an arm and a leg.
Looking through the reviews, it seems like not all that many people use flashes, at least based on the number of reviews.
My Sigma P-TTL ring flash has had a fair amount of use since I acquired it, and I suspect that will still get the most use because of my interest in macro, but for mugshots the Pentax will be more useful, so I'm hoping it will pay for itself.
06-06-2022, 05:12 PM   #18855
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QuoteOriginally posted by Kiwizinho Quote
so I'm hoping it will pay for itself
That's the best result! And I'm sure you'll have a bit of fun as well.
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