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12-18-2017, 07:17 PM   #14536
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QuoteOriginally posted by Kiwi110Auto Quote
do i need another 645........ damn i am not a member of the group to see it... looks like you have to be a member of the page to get access to view it
Suspect so. $800 for camera and 2 lenses...

---------- Post added 12-19-17 at 03:21 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Transit Quote
what's his name, I'll check the program and see what I have
Zak Fuller I think
Blue Suzuki, #33
Black racing suit, with red arms legs on one side and white arms legs on the other.

Unfortunately we couldn't make it across that weekend, busy time of year.

I like the last corner as you come onto the main straight, as you used to be able to get up fairly close and find a hole between safety screen sections.
Have a lot of time for Manfield as a race venue. Small enough that you can see most of it from the one spot, and not a bad track layout either.

12-18-2017, 07:40 PM   #14537
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So I was inspecting the M 50 lens the other day and now understand the problem with the aperture lever being forced wide open by the camera at all times. I don't understand why the DSLRs can't/don't need to push such levers?

Also, I think it has been mentioned before (even about my own lens) how to combat this to allow narrower apertures, but can someone please remind me about the recommended practice to use this lens on the KP? It has the "allow aperture ring" setting but the lens will physically remain at f/4 no matter what, it seems.

I've had a better play with focus peaking on this lens after recent discussion here and I'm quite comfortable with it now. Just need to suss that aperture.
12-18-2017, 08:01 PM   #14538
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QuoteOriginally posted by zkarj Quote
So I was inspecting the M 50 lens the other day and now understand the problem with the aperture lever being forced wide open by the camera at all times. I don't understand why the DSLRs can't/don't need to push such levers?

Also, I think it has been mentioned before (even about my own lens) how to combat this to allow narrower apertures, but can someone please remind me about the recommended practice to use this lens on the KP? It has the "allow aperture ring" setting but the lens will physically remain at f/4 no matter what, it seems.

I've had a better play with focus peaking on this lens after recent discussion here and I'm quite comfortable with it now. Just need to suss that aperture.
If it's an M 50 then I don't think the body will work with it in Auto mode. Others can jump in here.

I've got the A version of this old school lens, and in A setting it works exactly as you'd expect, with all functions being auto (other than focusing obviously).

Agreed, focus peaking (for static objects ideally) is where things are at with this, especially on a smaller APS-C viewfinder. I love optical viewfinders, but can totally see the appeal and real benefits of a mirrorless camera/electronic viewfinder in certain circumstances.
12-18-2017, 08:30 PM   #14539
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QuoteOriginally posted by Kiwi110Auto Quote
do i need another 645
Spare body.....sounds justifiable

12-18-2017, 08:44 PM   #14540
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certainly is ! bigger and better than ever I'm just not around for them this year so took the longview at Manfeild

---------- Post added 19th Dec 2017 at 05:09 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by richandfleur Quote
Suspect so. $800 for camera and 2 lenses...

---------- Post added 12-19-17 at 03:21 PM ----------



Zak Fuller I think
Blue Suzuki, #33
Black racing suit, with red arms legs on one side and white arms legs on the other.

Unfortunately we couldn't make it across that weekend, busy time of year.

I like the last corner as you come onto the main straight, as you used to be able to get up fairly close and find a hole between safety screen sections.
Have a lot of time for Manfield as a race venue. Small enough that you can see most of it from the one spot, and not a bad track layout either.
Ah I see on the new 150cc gixer series.
Sorry I failed to get any shots of them
was in the stands and too far away.
I didn't venture along to the last turn bank, was just too hot to emerge from my T1 tree
12-18-2017, 10:42 PM   #14541
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QuoteOriginally posted by richandfleur Quote
If it's an M 50 then I don't think the body will work with it in Auto mode. Others can jump in here.
I'm pretty sure this is an M lens given the "PENTAX-M" marking. As such, it has no 'A' setting on the aperture ring. The way my mind says it should work is I just set the aperture on the lens and fool/set the camera to deal with it not being wide open, but that does not seem possible.
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12-19-2017, 03:19 AM   #14542
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All of my M series lenses need to be in manual mode on the camera, set the aperture on the lens where I want it, & I usually use the green button to grab a suggested shutter speed. If you aren't in manual mode it won't stop down.

12-19-2017, 07:16 PM   #14543
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QuoteOriginally posted by NZ_Ross Quote
Spare body.....sounds justifiable
After-all, you need a colour body, and one for B&W....
12-19-2017, 08:22 PM - 1 Like   #14544
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QuoteOriginally posted by Clarkey Quote
After-all, you need a colour body, and one for B&W....
do not add to my thought processes... i did consider that... its bad enough have 2 inserts for color and 2 inserts for B+W

---------- Post added 12-19-17 at 08:26 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by zkarj Quote
So I was inspecting the M 50 lens the other day and now understand the problem with the aperture lever being forced wide open by the camera at all times. I don't understand why the DSLRs can't/don't need to push such levers?

Also, I think it has been mentioned before (even about my own lens) how to combat this to allow narrower apertures, but can someone please remind me about the recommended practice to use this lens on the KP? It has the "allow aperture ring" setting but the lens will physically remain at f/4 no matter what, it seems.

I've had a better play with focus peaking on this lens after recent discussion here and I'm quite comfortable with it now. Just need to suss that aperture.
As others have said, being an M series lens, the body will need to be in Manual or AV for the lens to stop down, as there are no electrical contacts on the lens to transmit info between lens and body to move the aperture lever automatically.
12-19-2017, 08:27 PM   #14545
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QuoteOriginally posted by Kiwi110Auto Quote
do not add to my thought processes... i did consider that... its bad enough have 2 inserts for color and 2 inserts for B+W
As Star Trek's Borg were often quoted 'Resistance is Futile'
12-20-2017, 12:39 AM   #14546
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QuoteOriginally posted by sqrrl Quote
All of my M series lenses need to be in manual mode on the camera, set the aperture on the lens where I want it, & I usually use the green button to grab a suggested shutter speed. If you aren't in manual mode it won't stop down.
QuoteOriginally posted by Kiwi110Auto Quote
As others have said, being an M series lens, the body will need to be in Manual or AV for the lens to stop down, as there are no electrical contacts on the lens to transmit info between lens and body to move the aperture lever automatically.
OK, sqrrl is correct here. The lens will only stop down in Manual mode. I set the aperture ring to f/32 to make things obvious and looked straight into the lens. Then if I press the green button in M mode, I can see the aperture stop down. If I do the same in Av mode, that does not happen.

I've taken a general test shot now at f/11 (2" hand held!) and can definitely see the much bigger DOF. I see the value in the green button now! Always wondered why it's there.

Thanks, team. Now I can give this lens the workout it deserves.
12-20-2017, 12:56 AM - 1 Like   #14547
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QuoteOriginally posted by zkarj Quote

Thanks, team. Now I can give this lens the workout it deserves.
When you get the 50 sorted, I have a M 200 f4 prime here I can send you to tame. No cost, I just need to clear out unused stuff.
12-21-2017, 12:33 AM   #14548
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QuoteOriginally posted by awa355 Quote
When you get the 50 sorted, I have a M 200 f4 prime here I can send you to tame. No cost, I just need to clear out unused stuff.
Ooh, I wouldn't say no to such a generous offer. Just had a bit of a read up on it and it sounds intriguing.

I'm now looking at the rest of the contents of Dad's old camera case with renewed interest. There's a M 28 f/2.8 which could be fun. Less sure about the Tokina 100-300 f/5.6 but it appears to be a macro (1:2.3) with focusing down to 1m, so could be interesting.

I'm definitely not interested in the ME and ME-F bodies if anyone else is interested in those. There's a flash there, too, but it looks like a cheapie. Sunpak 200. And... a cable release. I wish that would work on the DSLRs.
12-21-2017, 12:55 AM   #14549
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QuoteOriginally posted by zkarj Quote
I'm now looking at the rest of the contents of Dad's old camera case with renewed interest. There's a M 28 f/2.8 which could be fun. Less sure about the Tokina 100-300 f/5.6 but it appears to be a macro (1:2.3) with focusing down to 1m, so could be interesting.
After this disclosure I feel that you signature may need to be revised . I have a K 28 f3.5 - similar to the M 28 - I am sure you will find it a fun lens to play around with.
12-21-2017, 02:51 AM   #14550
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QuoteOriginally posted by zkarj Quote
Ooh, I wouldn't say no to such a generous offer. Just had a bit of a read up on it and it sounds intriguing.

I'm now looking at the rest of the contents of Dad's old camera case with renewed interest. There's a M 28 f/2.8 which could be fun. Less sure about the Tokina 100-300 f/5.6 but it appears to be a macro (1:2.3) with focusing down to 1m, so could be interesting.

I'm definitely not interested in the ME and ME-F bodies if anyone else is interested in those. There's a flash there, too, but it looks like a cheapie. Sunpak 200. And... a cable release. I wish that would work on the DSLRs.
Unfortunately the M28 is considered not so hot compared to the M28 3.5. I have one and am unimpressed with it. Strange really coz my Takumar bayonet28mm 2.8 and the A28 2.8 rock.
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