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05-15-2022, 01:40 AM - 1 Like   #18826
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QuoteOriginally posted by GUB Quote
Just bumped into this video
That video seems to be getting a lot of traction, as this is the fourth mention I have seen already. However, I would like to point you all to what I think is a much better account of the events of that day that was made by a local crew in 2019 for the 60th anniversary of the airport opening. The historic footage is all from a period newsreel and thus a lot of the commentary is largely the same, but the original includes interview segments with crews who were directly involved in all three incidents which makes for much better viewing in my opinion.



05-15-2022, 01:34 PM   #18827
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Great thanks! Interested to hear the dH drivers account

Last edited by Transit; 05-15-2022 at 06:55 PM.
05-15-2022, 04:10 PM - 2 Likes   #18828
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QuoteOriginally posted by GUB Quote
Just like repeating a person's name after being introduced is a good way to remember the name.
Tried that.. I just call them all Mate be done with it:-)
05-15-2022, 08:27 PM   #18829
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QuoteOriginally posted by GUB Quote
It is about using the liveview. If it is by design (and not just some setting somewhere in my one) your K-1 will not auto brighten. So if you want to critical focus in a macro setting that is going to need a flash your live view stays dark as. (on "A"). But if you use the aperture ring you can see what you are doing. Try it with your FA 50.

I went through this some years ago looking at the live view exposure.

It uses the metering mode for the live view image, even if you are using a manual exposure mode for your shot.

So basically if you put it on spot metering, and put the moon in the centre of the frame, it will correctly expose the live view image.

Kinda makes sense, but threw me for a long while. Envisioned it like the live view was a view of the scene exposed so you could see it, and not an indication of what your current exposure settings would produce.

There's nothing about it being a DSLR that means the live view has to be done this way. I really like what Olympus? was doing, where you would see the final image as it was being 'painted' during long exposure shots for example.

05-15-2022, 08:43 PM   #18830
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QuoteOriginally posted by richandfleur Quote
There's nothing about it being a DSLR that means the live view has to be done this way.
Yes I feel that they do it to give us a choice of viewing mode (by choosing to have ring on A or the ring settings).
But there is nothing documented about it is there?.
And any time I have mentioned it on PF I get the feeling that no-one knows what I am talking about and think I am an idiot! (like usual)
05-15-2022, 09:14 PM   #18831
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QuoteOriginally posted by GUB Quote
I get the feeling that no-one knows what I am talking about and think I am an idiot!

Not at all.

Looked back and here was my findings:
OMG The K-50 sucks for moon shots! - Page 3 - PentaxForums.com

Highly recommend trying this (depending on your subject). Take a look at what you're shooting and work out what metering mode would work best IF you were shooting in full camera automatic mode. Set the metering to that (ie spot in my moon case so the moon wouldn't over expose).

That simple change should take care of live view exposure, which in turn allows you to use focus peaking/digital zoom etc to help focus the manual lens. The manual photo settings you have will determine the shot you take as per normal, but the metering mode will determine the live rear view image.
05-16-2022, 12:05 AM - 1 Like   #18832
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QuoteOriginally posted by richandfleur Quote
Not at all.

Looked back and here was my findings:
OMG The K-50 sucks for moon shots! - Page 3 - PentaxForums.com

Highly recommend trying this (depending on your subject). Take a look at what you're shooting and work out what metering mode would work best IF you were shooting in full camera automatic mode. Set the metering to that (ie spot in my moon case so the moon wouldn't over expose).

That simple change should take care of live view exposure, which in turn allows you to use focus peaking/digital zoom etc to help focus the manual lens. The manual photo settings you have will determine the shot you take as per normal, but the metering mode will determine the live rear view image.
No no we are at cross purposes here.
What I am pointing out is how LV performs differently depending on whether your "A" series lens is set to "A" or set to the fstop on the ring.
Your link doesn't mention this once. But I also feel this difference was relevant for that thread.
Put an A type lens on your camera and set the ring to say f8 and in LV point it into a dark corner - it will auto brighten.
Set it to "A" and choose f8 on your LCD and point it at that dark corner and it won't auto brighten.

05-16-2022, 03:38 AM - 1 Like   #18833
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QuoteOriginally posted by GUB Quote
Put an A type lens on your camera and set the ring to say f8 and in LV point it into a dark corner - it will auto brighten.
Set it to "A" and choose f8 on your LCD and point it at that dark corner and it won't auto brighten.
Thanks for the reminder. I've just tested this on my K-1ii. It brightens for me in either use of the aperture ring, A or not.
05-16-2022, 04:13 AM   #18834
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QuoteOriginally posted by MarkJerling Quote
Thanks for the reminder. I've just tested this on my K-1ii. It brightens for me in either use of the aperture ring, A or not.
Right then that means it is in my settings.
And I think I have found it. I am in M mode and normally underexposing by staying at base iso. Boosting the iso to correct the exposure brings the lcd up
So I think you would encounter it if you were counting on a flash to lighten the subject as in macro shots. So it is something to be aware of.
Using the ring settings is then a useful workaround to remember in these situations.
And being able to use the ring this way is a critical part of my manual focusing , M mode base Iso approach.
And that explains why no one else is really aware of the difference.
05-16-2022, 04:15 AM   #18835
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To repeat what happens to me you need to M mode underexpose your shot and compare the "A" vs the ring setting.

EDIT and if you are thinking of getting into flash closeups then I suggest a macro lens with an aperture ring is important.
05-16-2022, 05:10 AM   #18836
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Interesting. One thing I found strange was that it seemed, at first, as if it was behaving the way you said, but then, after changing settings a few times it seemed to become similar under both A and aperture ring use. I'm not sure if that was simply me not noticing the change, or whether it behaved differently to start with.
05-16-2022, 02:16 PM   #18837
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QuoteOriginally posted by MarkJerling Quote
Interesting. One thing I found strange was that it seemed, at first, as if it was behaving the way you said, but then, after changing settings a few times it seemed to become similar under both A and aperture ring use. I'm not sure if that was simply me not noticing the change, or whether it behaved differently to start with.
Maybe you pushed the green button and it corrected the exposure for you? There will only be a difference between the two when under (and probably over) exposed in M mode

So if I have got this right then Richard's troubles with the moon would go away with an "A" type lens in the A position once he was correctly exposed.
But if he is stuck with an aperture ring as in a "M" lens then setting spot metering is the work around.

And if you are in macro @ f16 1/200 iso 100 (as I often am) in darker conditions with flash then the "M" lens type set up is best. (using the ring)

And for me underexposing by being at base iso always then the ring is critical too.

Of course all this is relevant only to liveview.
05-16-2022, 03:34 PM   #18838
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QuoteOriginally posted by GUB Quote
To repeat what happens to me you need to M mode underexpose your shot and compare the "A" vs the ring setting.

EDIT and if you are thinking of getting into flash closeups then I suggest a macro lens with an aperture ring is important.
Really useful discussion. I've experienced this exact problem using ring-flash and macro on the K-70. Thankfully when I bought a D-FA 100/2.8 I kept my older Tamron SP 90/2.8 macro, and that has an aperture ring, and I have auto extension tubes now so the 10mm difference in focal length doesn't really matter. The D-FA 100/2.8 is WR, which is convenient out tramping, but there are lots of macro subjects around home where WR is less of an issue.
05-16-2022, 04:19 PM   #18839
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Is this difference (using "A" vs the ring) discussed anywhere Kiwizinho ?
05-16-2022, 05:36 PM   #18840
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QuoteOriginally posted by GUB Quote
Maybe you pushed the green button and it corrected the exposure for you? There will only be a difference between the two when under (and probably over) exposed in M mode

So if I have got this right then Richard's troubles with the moon would go away with an "A" type lens in the A position once he was correctly exposed.
But if he is stuck with an aperture ring as in a "M" lens then setting spot metering is the work around.

And if you are in macro @ f16 1/200 iso 100 (as I often am) in darker conditions with flash then the "M" lens type set up is best. (using the ring)

And for me underexposing by being at base iso always then the ring is critical too.

Of course all this is relevant only to liveview.
Don't think so for the green button. Funny thing was, when I first moved the aperture ring, the camera did not seem to compensate the view when pointing the lens to a dark corner. But, all subsequent times I tried it, it did. I've not tried this with a M type lens, so must look how that differs.
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