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08-10-2010, 07:29 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by lbenac Quote
Thanks for the sample. I read that 320TXP was not as accommodating as 400TX and that seem to be the case. I will give it a try at box speed and 640.

Cheers,

Luc
320TXP doesn't push well with most developers. But with ACU-1 it is the highest rated push on their development chart. Higher than 400TX. That's not to say, however, you can't push 400TX just as much with another developer. So I thought I'd give it a try. I think developing without the 25% increase would be better. It says you just get more contrast without increased developing when you extend the time.

08-10-2010, 10:16 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by lbenac Quote
I use stand development:
1. Xtol 200ml
2. Rodinal 10ml
3. Tap water 800ml
4. Borax - a small touch
for one hour.

Edit: I meter the film at ISO50 as stand development tends to push the film.

It just work great for me.

Cheers,

Luc
Thanks for the recipe, I will have to give it a try as soon as I can get around to exposing some more Efke 25.

Here is the Tri-X 400/HC-110 semi-stand development I mentioned if you would like to give it a try:

  1. Keep all liquids at 68F throughout
  2. HC-110 dilution 1:112 (start with 4 ml concentrated syrup and add distilled water to make 450ml)
  3. Presoak with distilled water for 2 minutes
  4. Develop for a total of 25 minutes
  5. Agitation: first 30 seconds using slow inversion, then let stand with just 4 inversions at 16 minutes and 4 more at 8 minutes.
  6. Stop, Fix, wash and dry per your usual methods (I am assuming most of this doesn't matter except for possibly keeping agitations slow and maintaining the temperature. But for what its worth I use a water rinse in place of a stop bath)
The 4ml of syrup is below the usual 6ml minimum often cited, however I didn't have any issues with it.

As I said before, I really need to try to repeat this and then experiment to fine tune it. But in the one test I felt it really brought up the shadows while doing a nice job of protecting highlights, it showed considerably smoother grain than my "standard" development with Tri-X, and allowed for at least box speed if not a stop more.


Here is a sample. (Sorry, NOT taken with the Pentax - this was using an old 6x6 Meteor camera with its meniscus lens)

Jeff
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08-10-2010, 10:44 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Denverdad Quote
Thanks for the recipe, I will have to give it a try as soon as I can get around to exposing some more Efke 25.

Here is the Tri-X 400/HC-110 semi-stand development I mentioned if you would like to give it a try:
  1. Keep all liquids at 68F throughout
  2. HC-110 dilution 1:112 (start with 4 ml concentrated syrup and add distilled water to make 450ml)
  3. Presoak with distilled water for 2 minutes
  4. Develop for a total of 25 minutes
  5. Agitation: first 30 seconds using slow inversion, then let stand with just 4 inversions at 16 minutes and 4 more at 8 minutes.
  6. Stop, Fix, wash and dry per your usual methods (I am assuming most of this doesn't matter except for possibly keeping agitations slow and maintaining the temperature. But for what its worth I use a water rinse in place of a stop bath)
The 4ml of syrup is below the usual 6ml minimum often cited, however I didn't have any issues with it.

As I said before, I really need to try to repeat this and then experiment to fine tune it. But in the one test I felt it really brought up the shadows while doing a nice job of protecting highlights, it showed considerably smoother grain than my "standard" development with Tri-X, and allowed for at least box speed if not a stop more.


Here is a sample. (Sorry, NOT taken with the Pentax - this was using an old 6x6 Meteor camera with its meniscus lens)

Jeff
Jeff,

Thanks for the tip. It looks good. I will try that on a roll on 320TXP.
Forget to mention that I also pre-soak Efke for 4 minutes and as usual Rodinal should be at less than 20 centigrade. I usually use 19 which is the temp of our running water.

Cheers,

Luc
08-10-2010, 10:47 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
320TXP doesn't push well with most developers. But with ACU-1 it is the highest rated push on their development chart. Higher than 400TX. That's not to say, however, you can't push 400TX just as much with another developer. So I thought I'd give it a try. I think developing without the 25% increase would be better. It says you just get more contrast without increased developing when you extend the time.
I will see if I can get away with the developer that I already have Rodinal, Xtol, Perceptol and HC110 before adding to the collection.
I am really tempted about trying PMK Pyro but all the warnings regarding toxicity are freaking me out as I do not have a dedicated black room but work out of our kitchen sink...

Cheers,

Luc

08-11-2010, 07:51 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by lbenac Quote
I will see if I can get away with the developer that I already have Rodinal, Xtol, Perceptol and HC110 before adding to the collection.
...

Cheers,

Luc
Ouch! My golden rule has been never mix Rodinal with 320TXP. I tried it twice. They were the worst negatives I've ever seen and that is without pushing. It looks like the grain clumps and other issues. It would be good for special effects, I guess. And I can't say if that added XTOL in your Rodinal soup improves the situation or not.
08-11-2010, 11:29 AM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
Ouch! My golden rule has been never mix Rodinal with 320TXP. I tried it twice. They were the worst negatives I've ever seen and that is without pushing. It looks like the grain clumps and other issues. It would be good for special effects, I guess. And I can't say if that added XTOL in your Rodinal soup improves the situation or not.
Thanks for the advice. For 320TXP test rolls, I will stick with HC110.

Cheers,

Luc
08-11-2010, 05:30 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by Steve Beswick Quote
Delta 3200 is really nice.
I just loaded my first roll of it into a 645 insert while shooting a dance camp last week. I didn't get to try it, but I'm looking forward to it.

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