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08-17-2010, 06:36 PM   #1
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Workflow for Scanning on Coolscan 9000

Hi all,

I guess this might have been asked before but if so please just point me towards the most relevant thread. I did a quick search but couldn't see any recent posts on the subject...

Anyways, I have managed to finally purchase a Coolscan 9000. My main usage will be to scan 6x7 transparencies (mostly Velvia/Provia) and also some negatives (B&W - Ilford, TriX, Colour - Portra, Ektar). I did have a Coolscan 5000 before and had some kind of workflow but I want to start again from scratch to create a new one. The old workflow was a little hotch potch and didn't always give predictable results. I do have Nikon Scan v4.0.3 and Vuescan already. I have managed to get the CS 9000 recognized and working under Windows Vista 64-bit (thanks to this incredibly useful thread here :

Unoffical Vista X64 driver of LS-8000ED/9000ED for Nikon Scan 4.03 - Digital Darkroom Forum

So, essentially I am looking for a professional workflow to get from the raw neg/slide to a 'Master' and then a 'Working File'. Some initial questions I have:

  1. How useful for general scanning are the ICE, DEE, GEM, ROC functions? If not general usage, when would you use them?
  2. I believe it is always best to get a Master file at 16-bit, 4000dpi as the first step but these things weigh in at 550MB for a 6x7 slide. I don't mind storing this file in an archive (TeraByte drives are cheap these days) but what steps are involved in going from this to a file I can work with in Photoshop/Lightroom, etc?
  3. My initial experience is that Vuescan is a little slower than NikonScan with the CS9000. Is that the general consensus? I do appreciate having the ability to use colour management in VS (I have the Wolf Faust 35mm IT8 targets). Do people generally find using the IT8 targets helps obtain the best 'Original' colour rendition?

Thanks again,

08-18-2010, 10:28 AM   #2
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I am not quite sure that I understand your question. If you have experience with the Coolscan 5000, the flow with the 9000 should be essentially similar with Nikon Scan. As for Vuescan...yes, it can be slower. Beyond that, it sounds like you know what you are wanting to do.

08-18-2010, 11:48 PM   #3
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Original Poster
5000 vs 9000

Actually I guess now that I am dealing with larger images (6x7) I was looking at reviewing what I was doing previously with the Coolscan 5000 in order to tidy up or hopefully improve my workflow...

Just wondering if other folk can share their experiences if they have gone through similar workflow tinkering/review...

08-19-2010, 01:59 PM   #4
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Regarding scanner settings: this is what I settled on for the LS8000+Nikon Scan:

-- 16 bit, 2000dpi, unless doing a tight crop

-- ICE on, FINE mode (off for traditional black-and-white film, of course)

-- Super Fine scan mode (IIRC it's in the "scanner extras" section of the controls) -- results in much slower scans but eliminates vertical banding artifacts

-- Auto focus on, select focus point manually for each frame

-- DEE and ROC off (I've never run into a case where DEE and ROC did a better job of fixing colors than manual fiddling in photoshop)

-- GEM off (I've never had to worry about grain with medium format film )

-- Auto exposure on (but beware that for C41 films, auto exposure might shift the black point slightly)

With E6 you can import the TIFF directly into Lightroom; with C41 (especially the Fuji pro stuff) you might need to make at least one trip through Photoshop to remove color casts by setting the R, G, and B channel black points. Sadly, Lightroom doesn't let you set these individually.

Also, check carefully for Newton rings if you are using the glass film holder.


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