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01-03-2011, 10:45 AM   #31
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No, 1/125th at f/8 and ISO 100 will look pitch black in the studio if your strobes don't fire. Its the strobes that will freeze the jump, not the shutter speed.

01-03-2011, 11:48 AM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by phonoline Quote
Okay, forgive me my ignorance but: if you want to freeze movement (a jump, "flying" hair etc.) in the studio using flash light (I have a Bowens system), it's better to have more than 1/125th, right?
There is a very good tutorial for this: Freeze Motion Photography - Jump shoots... check:

http://www.kelbytraining.com/player/index.html#tab\browse/category\all/course\268/lesson\3836

He is using a digital MF cam for shooting...
01-03-2011, 02:54 PM   #33
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QuoteOriginally posted by phonoline Quote
Okay, forgive me my ignorance but: if you want to freeze movement (a jump, "flying" hair etc.) in the studio using flash light (I have a Bowens system), it's better to have more than 1/125th, right?
If your studio is dark, I can freeze a jump at 1/8th sec.
Shutter only controls how much ambient shows up in your picture when you use strobes.

If you have a house fan, do this test while it's running...point flash at it on your DSLR (it's cheaper to do this test w/ digital but you could do this w/ film if you don't mind the developing cost). Set your shutter speed to 1/4sec. Take a photo with your flash pointed at it. Take the same photo at 1/180 or whatever your max on your DSLR is. It's also best to do this w/ a hotshoe flash since they're faster (flash pulse) than studio strobes. This is an essential exercise to understand how shutter speed actually affects your images...you'll see why 1/180 vs. 1/250 isn't that big a deal :-)

The Bowens is a fairly slow studio flash. Run it at as low a power as possible to minimize pulse width. If you have the QuadX, they're mucchhhhh better at freezing flying hair (the Einstein and Photogenic Solaire work much better than the QuadX and if you have the bucks, the high end Broncolor are best). You need a T.1 spec of roughly 1/1000sec and 1/1500 is better.
01-03-2011, 04:31 PM   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by phonoline Quote
Not sure if 125 will be enough. I am not so much experienced in the studio, though.
In studio, no that speed will not be a problem. Even in outdoor fill situations, 1/125 is plenty fast enough most of the time, and with a little creativity, all of the time.
It's only 1 stop slower than the vaunted and much wished for 1/250 second sync speed.
If I did a lot of table top photography, shooting products, I would pretty much demand tethering, and would use it exactly the same way I used Polaroids when I shot product with 4x5 sheet film back in the 80s.
For portrait photography, tethering is not an especially useful feature. We have tried shooting tethered at the studio using the Nikons and have found it is more of a distractive element than an assistive one.
The tendency was to be chimping rather than shooting, to the extent that no rhythm was developed during the shoot.

Pentax does need to get in the game and get the tethering opened up though, if for no other reason than it is now considered a "serious camera" feature, whether or not is is of any use.

01-03-2011, 04:58 PM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by gigapix Quote
There is a very good tutorial for this: Freeze Motion Photography - Jump shoots... check:

Online Training Player | Kelby Training

He is using a digital MF cam for shooting...
nice video, thanks for sharing
01-03-2011, 06:56 PM   #36
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The only reason I've been curious about the 1/125th limit is seeing a few other studio based photographers using things like the 'Blad H4D-40 or H4D-50 and exif data like 1/350 and F10 or F11.

In my collection of gear is 2 x 500W Bowens mono-blocs, 2 x 125W "no name" strobes, an old undertermined wattage Quantraray unit and 2 x 600W Chinese made Boling strobes that run off a battery pack. The main commercial studio I hire has a LOT of strobes (usually 4 in the studio and another 3 or 4 in the cupboards) varying from 300W to 1000W units ...... so I rarely struggle for power/light and was interested in playing with faster shutters and stopping things down a bit more.
01-03-2011, 09:00 PM   #37
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QuoteOriginally posted by Warped Quote
The only reason I've been curious about the 1/125th limit is seeing a few other studio based photographers using things like the 'Blad H4D-40 or H4D-50 and exif data like 1/350 and F10 or F11.
Bet this was done using leaf shutters (shutter in lens).

I have a hard time believing a giant focal plane shutter that would be needed to cover a MF sensor is capable of moving that fast when even the ultrafast Canon 1DmkIII can't go that fast...

p.s. only reason you'd need that high a shutter speed is outdoors when doing the "overpower the sun" stunts (your artificial light is 1-2 stops over ambient)...
01-04-2011, 04:02 PM   #38
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QuoteOriginally posted by Warped Quote
The only reason I've been curious about the 1/125th limit is seeing a few other studio based photographers using things like the 'Blad H4D-40 or H4D-50 and exif data like 1/350 and F10 or F11.

The Blads use leaf shutters which will sync to 1/500 second.
When shooting that high, you do need to make certain that your flash is firing fast enough to not get shutter induced underexposure.

01-05-2011, 09:04 AM   #39
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Warped, any chance we'll be able to see the original files anytime soon?
01-05-2011, 06:08 PM   #40
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QuoteOriginally posted by phonoline Quote
Warped, any chance we'll be able to see the original files anytime soon?
Apologies - school holidays and I'm on leave too - so at home with the kids doing family stuff and being kept busy
Will try and get something up soon.
01-22-2011, 06:33 PM   #41
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As to the P67/P645 adapter... It will give you auto diaphragm so that you can conveniently focus (and meter) wide open, but there's no electrics, and further the P67 lenses have no A position anyway so you'll be shooting aperture priority. Works fine...
(disclosure: I do have P645NII and P67II and have used P67 lenses on the 645 with the adapter)

PS: Warped, very interesting commentary on your studio shoot, thanks!

Last edited by Dougg; 01-26-2011 at 04:38 PM.
01-24-2011, 10:58 AM   #42
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QuoteOriginally posted by kenyee Quote
...
The Bowens is a fairly slow studio flash. Run it at as low a power as possible to minimize pulse width. If you have the QuadX, they're mucchhhhh better at freezing flying hair (the Einstein and Photogenic Solaire work much better than the QuadX and if you have the bucks, the high end Broncolor are best). You need a T.1 spec of roughly 1/1000sec and 1/1500 is better.
The mid-range Bowens will actually have a longer flash duration at lower power than at full power. They are short on details on there website for flash duration data though. But any flash that just controls how many Joules are stored in the capacitor for flash strength gives you the tail end of the RC decay when you reduce its power. It all depends on how they design the circuit. Some pro models have a hybrid of that design to give shorter flash durations at certain power levels.

The Alienbee Einstein gives you shorter flash durations with less power and has no RC flash decay because they interrupt the power using a IGBT semiconductor. T.1 flash durations as fast as 1/10,000 at 1/16th power is advertised and even shorter in its "sports" mode. But at full power its t.5 = 1/1600 and t.1 = 1/540. So on full it is not as short as some of the expensive strobe units.

Last edited by tuco; 01-24-2011 at 11:32 AM.
01-24-2011, 11:38 AM   #43
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QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
The mid-range Bowens will actually have a longer flash duration at lower power than at full power.
Varies a lot depending on manufacturer. Speedotron and most other makers have faster flash duration at lower power as long as you don't use the variator...they switch banks of capacitors to change the RC curve. Others just use a variator and that sounds like what the Bowens is (not that great a design because the color generally changes as well)...

And yes the Einsteins are much faster at lower power. I have a few, along w/ a white lightning, and a bee....had Speedotron for a while too
01-24-2011, 11:50 AM   #44
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QuoteOriginally posted by kenyee Quote
.

And yes the Einsteins are much faster at lower power. I have a few, along w/ a white lightning, and a bee....had Speedotron for a while too
Wow, what a collection. I just have some AlienBee 800 and 400s. The Einsteins looks interesting but I can't justify getting any for my modest strobe work.

Last edited by tuco; 01-24-2011 at 02:09 PM.
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