I agree with your point of view and experience. I have found that it is very difficult to get sharpe photos using MF gear and lenses with focal length greater than or equal to 300mm. One must use both the right equipment and the right techniques.
I use an aluminium Gitzo G1500 tripod together with a matching systematic 5 hydrostatic head with quick release. It is shown in the first photo below supporting a P67 plus Takumar 400mm telephoto. The top tubes are 37.5mm dia with 2mm thick walls. They join into the top mounting ring with separation of about 125mm, so very good at resisting axial torsion. and can carry very heavy weight.
The head, shown in close up in the second photo, is seamlessly bolted into the tripod, has a very thick neck, and short vertical distance from the tripod mount to the quick release plate - all factors contributing to the overall stiffness of the mount. There is only one ring beneath the mounting plate that needs be turned in order to change the orientation of the camera.
I always now use with long lenses a mounting rail as a quick release plate so that I can bolt both the lens and the camera to it - the subsequent reduction in vibration, compared against a single point mount to the lens only, is obvious even in the viewfinder. This of course makes portrait orientation difficult because the orientation of the lens and camera can no longer be individually changed, but there are always compromises to be dealt with. I manufactured a steel L-bracket with 7mm x 50mm cross-section that I leave permanently attached to a quick release plate, so to go to portrait mode, I simply attach the L-bracket/mounting plate to the head, and bolt the rail of the camera assemblage yo the L-bracket, as shown in the 3rd and 4th photos.
If all that is not enough, additional practices are necessary for ultimate sharpness: 1) I never use the tripod with legs extended any further than is shown in the 1st photo - and this is true for any tripod, not just mine; 2) even though the tripod/head/camera/lens weighs in at about 9kg, I hang an additional 5-10 kg from the hook under the head - this assures that the tripod feet are securely set on the ground; 3) I drape a further additional 8kg diver's weight belt over the lens to add mass to the camera system - good for reducing the effect of the shutter release; 4) I always use MLU; 5) when I take the shot, I rest my left hand atop the lens above the mount and I hold the camera with my right hand, in order to add damping; and 6) I squeeze the shutter firmly and slowly, holding my breath, like one fires a gun.
Some of you may consider this extreme overkill, but I have examined all aspects mentioned above over many years, and am left with no doubt that it is all necessary - necessary that is, if you want to achieve the most sharpness possible out of a telephoto lens/MF camera combination. Now, if you are willing to tolerate a little less sharpness, well, that is another matter...
Best, Alan
Originally posted by Digitalis I disagree, even the strongest Gitzo system tripods can have have their stability compromised depending on how you use it, and the surfaces you place it on. Using a tripod isn't a simple matter of extending the legs composing the shot and taking it, there is extensive technique and planning ahead involved especially with long lenses. With wide angle lenses such techniques aren't as necessary but they still can be the difference between getting the shot and not. With my lighter tripods I often use my camera bag on a bungee to counteract vibrations and strong winds, having a heavy weight close to the ground lowers the centre of gravity and greatly enhances the stability of a tripod considerably. Using a tripod head that has a low profile head on it like the low profile Ballheads made by Gitzo do wonders for enhancing stability. Also spreading out the tripod legs and using a lower angle will often compositionally improve your images and from a stability standpoint lower the centre of balance of the tripod and assist in keeping vibrations to a minimum.