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05-24-2012, 06:57 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by slackercruster Quote
Why are selling it? What didn't you like about it?
I am selling my 645D as I am moving on to a more flexible system. But I'll keep my 67II.

05-24-2012, 06:58 AM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by phonoline Quote
I am selling my 645D as I am moving on to a more flexible system. But I'll keep my 67II.
What are you moving to?
05-24-2012, 07:05 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by phonoline Quote
I honestly have no idea how to stitch. I have never done it. Can you explain?
First, take a series of images from left to right (doesn't have to be, but that's how most photo software 'likes it'). You can do 2 or more images, but the more you shoot the more processing it will take up on your computer.

It helps if you don't use a polarizer as this may cause the skies to not blend well. Also, if you use a GND filter, make sure it's level and doesn't move from exposure to exposure. Each image should be shot with the same shutter speed and aperture.

Using a nodal slide will allow you to stitch parallax free panos. Read in detail about how to calculate the Non Parallax Point of your lenses here: Finding The Nodal Point of Your Lens - Photography Reviews, How-To, and Galleries of Digital Grin

You will need to calculate what exposure will 'work' for the whole scene, if it's contrasty you may need to bracket each shot.

Here's my process for doing photostitching:

After shooting, I open ALL the RAW files that I want to stitch, then adjust them all exactly the same by 'syncronizing' their settings. This will assure they line up correctly and look like one image. I open them in PS.

Then I go to PS->File->automate->photomerge. there are several options from there depending on what you're working with. Then once the program does it's 'magic' you will need to crop a little bit of the edges most likely and can begin making local adjustments in PS, though you may want to flatten the image first.
05-24-2012, 07:28 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by slackercruster Quote
What are you moving to?
I'll invest into a D800, a new Mac book, an iPad and some new lenses. The whole shebang. I need to be quicker and more flexible - with the 645D I can't. I'll still use my 67II and my Fuji GX680III for "slow" (mostly b&w) photography, though.

Thanks, Ryan, for the explanation!

05-24-2012, 09:02 AM   #20
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Tools of the Trade

QuoteOriginally posted by phonoline Quote
I'll invest into a D800, a new Mac book, an iPad and some new lenses. The whole shebang. I need to be quicker and more flexible - with the 645D I can't. I'll still use my 67II and my Fuji GX680III for "slow" (mostly b&w) photography, though.

Thanks, Ryan, for the explanation!

Every tool has a need and use, when we go shopping for a car we do a list of needs on paper or in our minds listing all our needs from it, some needs it purly for transportation with small budget, some wants it to complement Her/His image ....etc, every Car in the showrooms meet someones needs and Budget.
If You feel the Nikon D800 meets your Photography style and budget needs then its your tool, i thought of the step you are thinking to take but realized the D800E wont replace my 645D for "My" type of work "but" it will complement it and replace my Canon 5DMK2, the 645D with its crop factor and sharper bigger a bit more Pixels CCD and the FF Pentax glass gives me perfect edges and print Quality in Big Prints.
05-24-2012, 09:32 AM - 1 Like   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by slackercruster Quote
I don't make big prints. Pretty much only look at photos on the computer. Will the 645D be overkill for my use?
Yes, it is.
05-24-2012, 10:06 AM   #22
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Monitor Viewing

QuoteOriginally posted by Yamanobori Quote
Yes, it is.
Even an 8mp camera is an overkill for monitor viewing "nowadays" and even if you crop it to 2mp, and even if you have an iMac 4mp monitor the 8mp is an over kill unless its 2020 when the 30mp monitors starts to show up in the market to view the future 30mp broadcast standard( its available and researched in Japan nowadays), then i would say the 40mp is what you need, but by then i predict the MP factor is different, pixels might combine all hues in them and glassless 3D at 30mp+ is real life
05-24-2012, 04:32 PM   #23
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I never had the 645 A 200mm, but do have the allegedly better FA version of the lens. It is very good on film, and other users reported it is on the 645D as well. But they also mentioned the same difficulty of focus. Don't have that on my 645N. It is a conveniently light lens, with 58mm.

05-24-2012, 06:10 PM   #24
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I have an A 200 and while it is challenging to focus, mine is sharp across the frame with good color and contrast. I think it's slightly better than the A 150. The A 75mm is also a very good lens as is the A35mm. I have a copy of the A55mm which is fairly sharp across the frame but only when stopped down. I also shoot the 67 55mm (latest version) and the 67 105mm with adapters. The 67 55mm while really big and heavy has better color, sharpness, and contrast than either the A 55 or the D FA 55.
05-24-2012, 06:18 PM   #25
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Following up on my post above, some samples of each lens can be found at:

Pentax 645D - a set on Flickr
05-24-2012, 08:31 PM   #26
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Hi All,

Just some random responses to some of the comments posted in this thread.

For those that may be fairly new here or new users of the 645D...I posted a comprehensive multi sample lens test of virtually all single focal length FA 645 Af lenses as used on the 645D including some zooms. I'll provide the link to that test at the end of my post. What isn't included on the list is my testing of the A* 600 f5,6 645 lens which I'm currently evaluating.

Just a few more comments prior to the link. The Fa 35mm is a very fine performing lens and compared to the A* version has both advantages and disadvantages. One think to take note with the FA 35 (can't honestly say if it applies to the A* version), is this lens among all other FA 645 lenses had the greatest sample to sample variation. Additionally although I found it is critical to evaluate and find the proper Af fine tune setting for every sample of FA 645 lens used on the 645D (especially if one is to shoot at some of the more open apertures), it is critical to do so with the FA 35mm.

Lastly the FA 200 f4 lens isn't the strongest telephoto performer but when a good sample is found and one stops down to at least f6.7 and beyond, it's a competent performer and a very good bargain, price wise. The FA 300 f4 on the other hand is simply exceptional.

OK, here is the link for the comprehensive lens test. Thanks!

Link----> Comprehensive Testing: Results & Observations with Pentax 645 Lenses used on the 645D - The GetDPI Photography Forums

Dave (DandA)
05-24-2012, 09:52 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by slackercruster Quote
I don't make big prints. Pretty much only look at photos on the computer. Will the 645D be overkill for my use?
Absolutely an overkill, I think.
05-24-2012, 10:20 PM   #28
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DandA,

i find my FA 300 5.6 on the low contrast side, have you compared the two 300s?
05-25-2012, 12:08 AM   #29
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Thanks guys for your input about the 200mm.
05-25-2012, 12:36 AM   #30
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the lenses

I like the P67 lenses on the 645D. The 75mm 2.8 and 100macro are the best lenses in every way . The late model 55mm is amazing and way cheaper than the 55mm DFA. The 55-100mm zoom is a must have for ease of use, close focus, and IQ. The 165mm 2.8 is the best portrait lens ever on a 645D. With patience ,the 800mm 6.7 gives large print MFD telephoto new respect.
Wide end is still the 645 A 35mm. Moderate telephoto 645 FA 400mm , light weight and fast focus, correctible CA. And long zoom is the 645 FA 80-160 since the P67 one is so slow..........

Keep in mind that when choosing 67 lenses , you are giving up in camera spot metering.
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