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10-04-2012, 07:29 PM   #1
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Film type dial / exposure counter control dial. keeping on 220

So I just bought a beautiful pentax 6x7 on ebay with a ttl pentaprism 105mm F2.4, 150mm f2.8, and 55mm f3.5 lens. It came yesterday and everything is great!

except...

there is no film type dial or exposure counter control dial whatever you want to call it on the top right corner of the camera body. I was looking forward to shooting 220 film because the photo lab I use charges the same to develop and scan 220 as it does for 120.
I downloaded a couple of manuals and I read that even if you set the film type dial to 220 you can still shoot 120 film and you would have to just keep releasing the shutter after your 10th exposure in order to take up the remaining paper. Where as if you are shooting 220 and the film type dial is set to 120 then the shutter will disengage after the 10th exposure.

I am pretty sure that the dial is set to 120 right now but if I am able to get someone to set it to 220 does anyone see a drawback to leaving it there?

10-05-2012, 03:18 AM   #2
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So, first I'm just making sure. No screw or dial face... just plain missing and a gaping hole?

If you set it to 220 and leave it there, it will set the little claw that runs along the counter wheel. Two groove are cut on the wheel and normally the 10 part would cause the claw to push out and stop the shutter from being engaged. The 20 groove is just longer and no other tension devices are set in the winding mechanism, but you should set the film pressure plate for 120 or 220 depending because the tension needed to keep the counting roller is different from the winding mechanism and as you, paper backed and no paper backed. When you come to the end of the 10th shot and you'll have to shoot two more to wind past the edge of the film. Also, you'll need to fire off the shutter when the back is open to reset the counter because the counter is still looking to go to 20 and you opened the back while the system was still engaged and cocked to go.

Have you contacted Pentax parts to see if you can still order the selector and screw?

It should be...

1 CNL-D1.4x2.2
1 C105 - Frame Nut Control Dial

...assuming that you still have the rest of the parts still there including the plastic dust shield around it all.







View of the counting wheel and the claw that rides the groove... a crappy picture, sorry.
The tip of the claw in this image show that it is riding up on the groove as if the 10th shot was down and only winding on is allowed.

Last edited by MysteryOnion; 10-05-2012 at 06:27 AM.
10-05-2012, 01:05 PM   #3
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That was very helpful! Thank you so much! I ended up going to a place called camera clinic a little north of seattle, washington and the man running the shop was nice enough to set it up to 220 for me for free. Yeah the screw is still there it was the dial face that was missing. He also had an extra dial face that he said was $10. I didn't have any money so he just hands it to me and says you owe me. Goodness I love that place. Anyway I will most likely be shooting 220 but it's nice to know if I want to shoot 120 that's sitll an option
10-05-2012, 02:18 PM   #4
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Good news and happy film shooting.

10-11-2012, 01:12 PM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by elephantvanishes Quote
...
Anyway I will most likely be shooting 220 but it's nice to know if I want to shoot 120 that's sitll an option
Good deal. Thanks for the tip on that camera shop. And I think you'll be saying it's still nice to know you can still shoot 220 because there isn't much of a choice in 220 remaining these days. Certainly no 220 BW options anymore.
10-15-2012, 03:14 AM   #6
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Back when I used to shoot with P67ii's, primarily with 120 but occasionally with 220, I was always under the impression that one key difference is that the absence of backing paper on 220 meant that the pressure plate had to hold the film at a slightly different distance in order to achieve accurate focus. Changing the setting on the camera adjusts the pressure plate slightly (the thickness of backing paper presumably). So shooting 120 with the camera set to 220, apart from the factors mentioned above, might lead to loss of critical focus (especially with lenses wide open). Least I think that's right...
10-15-2012, 10:41 AM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ed Hurst Quote
Back when I used to shoot with P67ii's, primarily with 120 but occasionally with 220, I was always under the impression that one key difference is that the absence of backing paper on 220 meant that the pressure plate had to hold the film at a slightly different distance in order to achieve accurate focus. Changing the setting on the camera adjusts the pressure plate slightly (the thickness of backing paper presumably). So shooting 120 with the camera set to 220, apart from the factors mentioned above, might lead to loss of critical focus (especially with lenses wide open). Least I think that's right...
You are right, but it is the pressure plate setting to must be flipped and not the selector dial. The film focus is by the rails around the film plane and it is constant to the camera regardless of the setting of the back and the presences of paper or not. Flipping the pressure plate allows the film with or without paper to slip by the roller at a certain amount of tension. This regulating is necessary to allow the "counter roller" and "winding clutch" to have the proper amount of motion. The selector dial only sets the point of when the cocking and winding are disengaged.
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