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09-25-2013, 05:44 AM   #16
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If you need to save a few dollars, the V600 is really cheap but does an excellent job with MF negatives. I own both the V700 (my home scanner) and the V600 (where I live when in the U.S.) I couldn't justify two V700 scanners but couldn't live without one during my recent 6 month stay in Colorado. I got the V600 for under $200 and it works very well. In most cases I would be very hard pressed to tell the different in output between the two scanners.

09-30-2013, 08:36 PM   #17
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This photo is from my first roll shot through my new Mamiya RB67 medium format camera. It is shot in Delta 100 and developed using Xtol 1:1.

To digitize this photo, I shot the negative using a lightbox and my Nikon D600 with a 50mm F4 macro lens. It is stitched from 12 separate images making the native (cropped) image 127 megapixels, or roughly 40" x 50".

Using a DSLR with a good macro lens and a light box, you get better images at much larger scales than you do with a high dollar drum scanner.

Can't wait to get more processed!




The above was my first go at it and I am using a jerry rigged setup. I don't have a real light box yet, so I am using my tablet, with a piece of plate glass as the light box. Seems to work well, but probably isn't near as good as the real thing since the light is wrong.

Here's my setup. I have a longer lens hood screwed onto a Maro-Takumar 50mm F4 lens and I focus using live view at 100%. So far, it is working incredibly well.




And one more from my first roll on the RB67


09-30-2013, 11:48 PM   #18
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Thats incredible! I'm going through a similar process at the moment. Bought my 6x7, got the film supplies to develop, my last step is which way to go to digitise while I get my footing with it all. After seeing your results I'll definitely have to pick up a short macro for my k30
10-01-2013, 02:50 AM   #19
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That is quite an interesting method of digitizing. I've never been much for stitching so I probably won't go there, but I like the results. Do you use a macro rail or something?

10-01-2013, 04:56 AM   #20
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Stitching couldn't be simpler. I am using the Microsoft image stitcher (free). All you do is load your images and the program stitches them automatically, Couldn't be simpler and works with as many images you want to take.
10-01-2013, 12:32 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by Colorado CJ Quote
Stitching couldn't be simpler. I am using the Microsoft image stitcher (free). All you do is load your images and the program stitches them automatically, Couldn't be simpler and works with as many images you want to take.
The images are pretty flat. A lot of middle gray tones and no brilliant whites or deep blacks . Perhaps it's your editing of the contrast curve but that is something to observe while you develop this scanning method.
10-01-2013, 02:38 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by Nuff Quote
you might want to invest in yellow and orange filters to darken the sky a bit.
Nahhh! Go straight to a Red filter!
10-01-2013, 06:59 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by tlong423 Quote
Nahhh! Go straight to a Red filter!
Try a red filter and polarizer at the same time for the 30ís horror film effect.

Phil

10-01-2013, 07:27 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by gofour3 Quote
Try a red filter and polarizer at the same time for the 30’s horror film effect.

Phil
Good thing he probably uses a tripod all the time. That combo of filters takes his 100 film down close to EI 3 with a deep red and max on the CPL filter.

I'd add that a red filter can play hell with conifer trees in mountain landscapes (can make them almost pure black) which should be considered in your vision of the scene. A lot depends on your middle gray exposure, of course.
10-01-2013, 09:54 PM   #25
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So, are you using a rail? How to you keep the camera sensor parallel with the negative and move it around?
10-03-2013, 06:07 AM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by Colorado CJ Quote
This photo is from my first roll shot through my new Mamiya RB67 medium format camera. It is shot in Delta 100 and developed using Xtol 1:1.

To digitize this photo, I shot the negative using a lightbox and my Nikon D600 with a 50mm F4 macro lens. It is stitched from 12 separate images making the native (cropped) image 127 megapixels, or roughly 40" x 50".

Using a DSLR with a good macro lens and a light box, you get better images at much larger scales than you do with a high dollar drum scanner.
Very fine results you show us here, Colorad CJ.
I'm not too happy with the results I get from my flatbed scanner (CanoScan 9000F), so I could be very tempted to try something similar. In fact, I have a lightbox, a K-5, 50mm macro lens and Microsoft ICE installed on my PC. I think I will give it a go :-)
10-03-2013, 06:23 AM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by revdocjim Quote
So, are you using a rail? How to you keep the camera sensor parallel with the negative and move it around?
I think the long metal hood is held in contact with the glass plate. That assures that the sensor is parallel with the film plane.
10-03-2013, 03:11 PM   #28
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Aha! Simple is sometimes best!
10-04-2013, 08:06 PM   #29
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Yeah, I'm using a metal lens hood placed directly on the negative. and focusing just under 1:1.

Here's another couple from tonight. I found using my NEX 5N and the same lens a little simpler because of the lighter weight and better live view (very nice focus peaking feature).

I am getting a better hang of it. The full size images look amazing with all the detail!






Last edited by Colorado CJ; 10-04-2013 at 09:24 PM.
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