[rob1234]

The 6x7/67 (note not the 67ii) prism seems to deal well with average scenes, taken seconds apart:

Here's the photo from the 67, metered spot on with the prism:




And the same settings on the NEX-5N:



Just for reference!

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Last edited by rob1234; 10-08-2013 at 08:58 AM.

[LaHo]

The 6x7 image may be deemed a bit on the warm/brown side and somewhat more contrasty than the Nex image, which is definitely on the cold/bluish side. But in comparison the analogue 6x7 image results in a much more pleasing image. I think.

[rob1234]

Agreed, but that is all down to post-processing (or lack of it) - I'm sure I could make the image's colour pretty similar if I tried.

The point I should have mentioned is that the NEX-5N reckoned this shot was 1.5 stops over-exposed, i.e. had I used the NEX's recommended exposure, the transparency would have been pretty sub-obtimal.

[gofour3]

Yep I find the 67ii AE prism using the matrix meter very accurate. The first shot looks very good.

Phil.

[tuco]

I'd note the Sunny 16 rule for this shot, which you adjust by opening 1 stop for this time of year and your latitude, is f11, 1/125. Only 1/2 stop difference. Who needs a meter for a sunny day with the sun at your back!

[rob1234]

I'd note the Sunny 16 rule for this shot, which you adjust by opening 1 stop for this time of year and your latitude, is f11, 1/125. Only 1/2 stop difference. Who needs a meter for a sunny day with the sun at your back!

True! Also, I find metering off my palm and placing that at Zone VI works a charm too.

Yep I find the 67ii AE prism using the matrix meter very accurate. The first shot looks very good.

Phil.

This was the averaging 6x7/67 meter, note the nice modern 67ii meter.

[tuco]

True! Also, I find metering off my palm and placing that at Zone VI works a charm too.

Both the last two shots I just posted in the Medium Format and the Post Your BW Film Shots were all taken without using a light meter. The developing technique used and the latitude of the film makes using the Sunny 16 rule and mentally adjusting as needed a snap.

It seems a person's prior digital experience, since it needs way more precise exposure, gets us dependent on a camera's meter and forget with negative film there is a lot more latitude with the exposure process. But transparency film is a different matter of course.

[Silent Street]

To my eyes there is nothing particularly contrasty or marginal, in terms of contrast, in the image presented. A multi-spot metered reading might yield a result slightly finer in tonal distribution than the 67 / 6x7 meter; generally multispot/averaging metering is my chosen path now as I do not think the rudimentary average-weighted TTL meter handles contrasty subjects particularly well, especially light and dark toned.

[desertscape]

The TTL prism meter can be faked out, so it is best to use a gray card if one is to use it successfully. Using only sunny 16 as your guide for metering when using slide film can be a nightmare, especially when using filters that do not pass the same amount of light (Hoya Polarizer VS a multicoated Polarizer).

[Silent Street]

The TTL prism meter can be faked out, so it is best to use a gray card if one is to use it successfully. Using only sunny 16 as your guide for metering when using slide film can be a nightmare, especially when using filters that do not pass the same amount of light (Hoya Polarizer VS a multicoated Polarizer).

That's interesting. Never heard of that before.

[desertscape]

My B+W multicoated Pol is a stop brighter than my Hoya Pol. If you forget this difference while using sunny 16, you're toast.

[Silent Street]

Most educational.
I need to fish around now and compare my Kenko Zéta C-POL with a B+W Kasemann C-POL — both of these have significant layers of multicoating.
I agree though it's not a good idea to use "rules of thumb" aka "Sunny 16" with polarisers (or other filters such as red, yellow, green and blue) without experimenting, taking notes and becoming proficient with e.g. a spot meter. I would never, ever hand over exposure control to the 67's rudimentary TTL meter: early experience proved that doesn't get it right at all.