[smigol]

I finally ran a roll of 120 through a new-to-me 67 on the weekend and was dismayed that it kept winding and cocking past the end of the roll. I thought the roll was toast as I'd felt this action before with another body where the clutch had died.

To my surprise, when I popped the back of the camera in the dark, I could feel that the film had advanced properly and was fully on the takeup reel. I've not gotten this roll developed yet since it needs E6 processing. I fthe registration distance is off, then it's a clutch problem.

What's interesting is that this body doesn't need the counter trick to dry-fire (wind without film). By the same token, it doesn't have the quick ratcheting to get past the leader.

Any thoughts to what's going on with this body?

[desertscape]

Do you have it set to 220?

[smigol]

Do you have it set to 220?

I have it set to 120 - and toggled the switch back and forth to see if it made a difference. No change. If it were winding at 220 on 120 film - what's the difference? I realize that the backing paper makes the thickness and that the camera will want to ratchet a certain length to get past the leader.

[revdocjim]

The fact that it keeps winding is normal. But the shutter should not be cocking once you're at the end of the roll. Was the counter accurate?
But since your camera will dry fire without the counter trick obviously something is weird in there and I would imagine that is the cause for the strange behavior you've described. As long as the shutter and winder are working correctly for the photos you do take it probably doesn't merit too much concern.

[MysteryOnion]

Smigol, is the dial also not resetting after the back is opened and the shutter is fired? If yes...One possible situation.

Roughly what is supposed to happen is that the slotted wheel that is attached to the counter dial is tracked by a pawl that is supposed to count off 10/20 or 10/21 depending in sync with a gate wheel.
Normally, when the pawl reaches the end of the count of notches, it is supposed to be blocked from dropping down further due to lack of notches and therefore not allowing a cycling of the winder.
If the pawl is still counting off correctly, but stuck on 20 or 21 and does reach the end count and stops as normal additionally, the dial is stopped.
Then the dial should drop back to start normally too when the back is opened, however, if this behavior is noted and the film type selector was set to 120 or 10 all this time... well that could mean the cam for the selector is broken or loose.
If the dial resets easily and did drop back to the start and yet the winder is still working and shutter still is cocking, then one or the other pawl/set arm is stuck and keeping the system engaged.

[smigol]

redocjim: I haven't gotten the roll developed yet so I'm not sure how accurate the winding may be. Because of this, I'm not sure if the counter was accurate. I do know that when I pulled the film out, the counter was at 15.

MysteryOnion: When opening the back the dial does reset. Due to your suggestion, I think that the comment about the pawl/arm still engaged makes sense. Is this something field-repairable or should I consider sending it off to Eric?

[desertscape]

I was just saying that the 120/ 220 switch on the side of the body being set at 220 will cause what you had described; shutter continuing to cock after shot 10.

[MysteryOnion]

Smigol,

The best and safe thing would be to have Eric give it the works.... if the selector cam is broken, it could come loose from under the set arm and bounce around inside... not a good thing to wait for to happen.