Pentax 67ii & extension tubes

Fritzenpapa · 12-28-2013, 06:59 AM

Hi,
I did some close up portraits with the 105mm lense, combined with the "smallest" extension tubes on my Pentax 67ii ... with shocking results: All photos where WAY to dark... (the BW nagatives where almost clear, when I took them out of the developping tank). Somebody able to help me figure out what went wrong? I am a little worried as I wanted to use the P67ii in order to have TTL-flash AND close up photos in 6x7 size.. As far as I understand one has to combine the 135mm Macro with extension tubes to get real life-sized close-ups...
Thank you!

**gofour3** · 12-28-2013, 10:12 AM

When you metered the subject did you have the lens DOF leaver in the “MAN” position and use stopped down metering?

The meter won’t work in the “AUTO” position when using an extension tube.

Phil.

Pete_the_Irish_Guy · 12-28-2013, 02:24 PM

^sounds correct.

Not to side track a thread, but does anyone know how the 400mm Takumar performs with extension tubes. I'm interested in picking one up and would rather not pay the extra $ for the ED IF if it performs okay with tubes.

**gofour3** · 12-28-2013, 03:24 PM

Originally posted by Pete_the_Irish_Guy

^sounds correct.

Not to side track a thread, but does anyone know how the 400mm Takumar performs with extension tubes. I'm interested in picking one up and would rather not pay the extra $ for the ED IF if it performs okay with tubes.

I have the Takumar 6x7 400/4 and it will work fine with extension tubes, but you have to get the “outer” bayonet set. There are only two tubes in this set, #1 23mm and #2 46mm.

Phil.

Pete_the_Irish_Guy · 12-28-2013, 03:39 PM

Originally posted by gofour3

I have the Takumar 6x7 400/4 and it will work fine with extension tubes, but you have to get the “outer” bayonet set. There are only two tubes in this set, #1 23mm and #2 46mm.

Phil.

One last question, do you know how much either extension tube will reduce the minimum focal distance. Not looking for macro just looking to bring the minimum focal distance closer to 2-3 meters.

Fritzenpapa · 12-28-2013, 03:47 PM

Hi Phil,
No, I expected the tubes to work with the camera and the lens in "AUTO" mode... Bad news, that it doesn´t work. That makes close-up photography probably very difficult. With the lens stopped down at 16 or 22, it´s night in the viewfinder when trying to take photos of insects or other very small subjects...

**gofour3** · 12-28-2013, 03:55 PM

Originally posted by Pete_the_Irish_Guy

One last question, do you know how much either extension tube will reduce the minimum focal distance. Not looking for macro just looking to bring the minimum focal distance closer to 2-3 meters.

Takumar 400/4 film to subject distance:

no extension tubes = 800 cm
#1 tube = 447 cm
#2 tube = 332 cm
#1+2 tubes = 275.9 cm

Phil.

**gofour3** · 12-28-2013, 04:03 PM

Originally posted by Fritzenpapa

Hi Phil,
No, I expected the tubes to work with the camera and the lens in "AUTO" mode... Bad news, that it doesn´t work. That makes close-up photography probably very difficult. With the lens stopped down at 16 or 22, it´s night in the viewfinder when trying to take photos of insects or other very small subjects...

Hi, follow these steps and everything will work.

With the 67II/AE prism and extension tubes, using Aperture-Priority AE mode:

1) Focus with the DOF lever set to “AUTO”, so you have a nice bright viewfinder.
2) Select the shooting aperture.
3) Move the lens DOF lever to “MAN”
4) Press the shutter ½ ways down to check the shutter speed. Adjust aperture if necessary.
5) Press the shutter all the way down to take the picture. The correct shutter speed will be automatically selected.
6) Move the lens DOF lever back to “AUTO”.

Repeat the above for each shot.

Note when the lens DOF lever is in the "MAN" position, the metering mode switches to center-weighted automatically.

Phil.

desertscape · 12-28-2013, 04:10 PM

Yes, the outer bay tubes work well on the 400 Takumar. I'm a bit surprised that someone else besides me has these. They are hard to find on the used market. The 400mm is well corrected for colors and is quite sharp for big glass.

**gofour3** · 12-28-2013, 06:36 PM

Originally posted by desertscape

They are hard to find on the used market.

No kidding, they were a bugger to find, especially with the case.

Phil.

Fritzenpapa · 12-31-2013, 02:02 AM

@ Phil - thank you for explaining the metering procedure. Do I have to do the same when using TTL-flash? As far as I remember, TTL-metering works by flash shutdown as soon as there´s enough light on the film... shouldn´t be prevented by extension tubes, right?

**gofour3** · 12-31-2013, 09:50 AM

Originally posted by Fritzenpapa

@ Phil - thank you for explaining the metering procedure. Do I have to do the same when using TTL-flash? As far as I remember, TTL-metering works by flash shutdown as soon as there´s enough light on the film... shouldn´t be prevented by extension tubes, right?

I haven’t tried using a flash with extension tubes, but yes you still need to follow the same above procedures. Things should work out fine.

If you are planning to do a lot of indoor still-life or macro work, I would recommend a set of studio flood lamps. I have two 500watt ones I use for macro work and they are fitted with daylight colour temperature (4800K) corrected bulbs.

Phil.

Fritzenpapa · 01-01-2014, 08:22 AM

Thank you, Phil. The idea with the daylight balanced bulbs really inspires me to do the same for indoor portraits. Converning my macro work: I use this entirely for taking photos of animals in the nature, mostly frogs and big insects, spiders etc. That´ll be a problem with the whole stopping down - and -measuring - procedure. Perhapes I go on using my 645N for that.

**gofour3** · 01-01-2014, 02:29 PM

Originally posted by Fritzenpapa

Thank you, Phil. The idea with the daylight balanced bulbs really inspires me to do the same for indoor portraits. Converning my macro work: I use this entirely for taking photos of animals in the nature, mostly frogs and big insects, spiders etc. That´ll be a problem with the whole stopping down - and -measuring - procedure. Perhapes I go on using my 645N for that.

Another option for macro work is the 67 100/4 macro. You can get 1:1 magnification without using extension tubes, so there is no stop down metering. (There is one for sale now in the PF marketplace)

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/24-photographic-equipment-sale/243279-sal...converter.html

The only issue with this lens is the VERY close “lens to subject distance” when using high magnification. The optics on the 100/4 are also way better than the 67 135/4 macro.

Phil.

Fritzenpapa · 01-02-2014, 05:50 PM

Thank you, Phil. Yes the 100mm lens would be a great option, but unfortunately it is out of reach financially. In the previous year (2013) I sold my whole Mamiya 6x9 Rangefinder - and a very huge 35mm SLR-equipment in order to buy into a good Pentax - MF - nature - photography - equipment. After such expensive purchases as the Pentax 67II body and the 1:4 ED (IF) 300mm (after buying "cheaper" things such as a Pentax 645N + 120mm Makro, Pentax 645 spare body, Pentax 6x7 with AE-Finder, 6x7 55mm, 6x7 35mm, 67 200mm, 1,4x Converter and "small" items such as filters and wooden grips) there´s nothing left to sell

to get the money needed for the 100mm - macro ...just the 135mm Macro seems to be affordable with my regular allowance/pocket money

12-28-2013, 04:03 PM	#8
gofour3 Site Supporter Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Vancouver, Canada Posts: 8,091	Originally posted by Fritzenpapa Hi Phil, No, I expected the tubes to work with the camera and the lens in "AUTO" mode... Bad news, that it doesn´t work. That makes close-up photography probably very difficult. With the lens stopped down at 16 or 22, it´s night in the viewfinder when trying to take photos of insects or other very small subjects... Hi, follow these steps and everything will work. With the 67II/AE prism and extension tubes, using Aperture-Priority AE mode: 1) Focus with the DOF lever set to “AUTO”, so you have a nice bright viewfinder. 2) Select the shooting aperture. 3) Move the lens DOF lever to “MAN” 4) Press the shutter ½ ways down to check the shutter speed. Adjust aperture if necessary. 5) Press the shutter all the way down to take the picture. The correct shutter speed will be automatically selected. 6) Move the lens DOF lever back to “AUTO”. Repeat the above for each shot. Note when the lens DOF lever is in the "MAN" position, the metering mode switches to center-weighted automatically. Phil. Last edited by gofour3; 12-28-2013 at 04:11 PM.

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12-28-2013, 06:59 AM	#1
Fritzenpapa Forum Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Schwarzwald Photos: Albums Posts: 73	Pentax 67ii & extension tubes Hi, I did some close up portraits with the 105mm lense, combined with the "smallest" extension tubes on my Pentax 67ii ... with shocking results: All photos where WAY to dark... (the BW nagatives where almost clear, when I took them out of the developping tank). Somebody able to help me figure out what went wrong? I am a little worried as I wanted to use the P67ii in order to have TTL-flash AND close up photos in 6x7 size.. As far as I understand one has to combine the 135mm Macro with extension tubes to get real life-sized close-ups... Thank you!

12-28-2013, 10:12 AM	#2
gofour3 Site Supporter Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Vancouver, Canada Posts: 8,091	When you metered the subject did you have the lens DOF leaver in the “MAN” position and use stopped down metering? The meter won’t work in the “AUTO” position when using an extension tube. Phil.

12-28-2013, 02:24 PM	#3
Pete_the_Irish_Guy Forum Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Posts: 52	^sounds correct. Not to side track a thread, but does anyone know how the 400mm Takumar performs with extension tubes. I'm interested in picking one up and would rather not pay the extra $ for the ED IF if it performs okay with tubes.

12-28-2013, 03:24 PM	#4
gofour3 Site Supporter Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Vancouver, Canada Posts: 8,091	Originally posted by Pete_the_Irish_Guy ^sounds correct. Not to side track a thread, but does anyone know how the 400mm Takumar performs with extension tubes. I'm interested in picking one up and would rather not pay the extra $ for the ED IF if it performs okay with tubes. I have the Takumar 6x7 400/4 and it will work fine with extension tubes, but you have to get the “outer” bayonet set. There are only two tubes in this set, #1 23mm and #2 46mm. Phil.

12-28-2013, 03:39 PM	#5
Pete_the_Irish_Guy Forum Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Posts: 52	Originally posted by gofour3 I have the Takumar 6x7 400/4 and it will work fine with extension tubes, but you have to get the “outer” bayonet set. There are only two tubes in this set, #1 23mm and #2 46mm. Phil. One last question, do you know how much either extension tube will reduce the minimum focal distance. Not looking for macro just looking to bring the minimum focal distance closer to 2-3 meters.

12-28-2013, 03:47 PM	#6
Fritzenpapa Forum Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Schwarzwald Photos: Albums Posts: 73 Original Poster	Hi Phil, No, I expected the tubes to work with the camera and the lens in "AUTO" mode... Bad news, that it doesn´t work. That makes close-up photography probably very difficult. With the lens stopped down at 16 or 22, it´s night in the viewfinder when trying to take photos of insects or other very small subjects...

12-28-2013, 03:55 PM	#7
gofour3 Site Supporter Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Vancouver, Canada Posts: 8,091	Originally posted by Pete_the_Irish_Guy One last question, do you know how much either extension tube will reduce the minimum focal distance. Not looking for macro just looking to bring the minimum focal distance closer to 2-3 meters. Takumar 400/4 film to subject distance: no extension tubes = 800 cm #1 tube = 447 cm #2 tube = 332 cm #1+2 tubes = 275.9 cm Phil.

12-28-2013, 04:10 PM	#9
desertscape Pentaxian Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Arizona Posts: 1,272	Yes, the outer bay tubes work well on the 400 Takumar. I'm a bit surprised that someone else besides me has these. They are hard to find on the used market. The 400mm is well corrected for colors and is quite sharp for big glass.

12-28-2013, 06:36 PM	#10
gofour3 Site Supporter Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Vancouver, Canada Posts: 8,091	Originally posted by desertscape They are hard to find on the used market. No kidding, they were a bugger to find, especially with the case. Phil.

12-31-2013, 02:02 AM	#11
Fritzenpapa Forum Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Schwarzwald Photos: Albums Posts: 73 Original Poster	@ Phil - thank you for explaining the metering procedure. Do I have to do the same when using TTL-flash? As far as I remember, TTL-metering works by flash shutdown as soon as there´s enough light on the film... shouldn´t be prevented by extension tubes, right?

12-31-2013, 09:50 AM	#12
gofour3 Site Supporter Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Vancouver, Canada Posts: 8,091	Originally posted by Fritzenpapa @ Phil - thank you for explaining the metering procedure. Do I have to do the same when using TTL-flash? As far as I remember, TTL-metering works by flash shutdown as soon as there´s enough light on the film... shouldn´t be prevented by extension tubes, right? I haven’t tried using a flash with extension tubes, but yes you still need to follow the same above procedures. Things should work out fine. If you are planning to do a lot of indoor still-life or macro work, I would recommend a set of studio flood lamps. I have two 500watt ones I use for macro work and they are fitted with daylight colour temperature (4800K) corrected bulbs. Phil.

01-01-2014, 08:22 AM	#13
Fritzenpapa Forum Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Schwarzwald Photos: Albums Posts: 73 Original Poster	Thank you, Phil. The idea with the daylight balanced bulbs really inspires me to do the same for indoor portraits. Converning my macro work: I use this entirely for taking photos of animals in the nature, mostly frogs and big insects, spiders etc. That´ll be a problem with the whole stopping down - and -measuring - procedure. Perhapes I go on using my 645N for that.

01-01-2014, 02:29 PM	#14
gofour3 Site Supporter Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Vancouver, Canada Posts: 8,091	Originally posted by Fritzenpapa Thank you, Phil. The idea with the daylight balanced bulbs really inspires me to do the same for indoor portraits. Converning my macro work: I use this entirely for taking photos of animals in the nature, mostly frogs and big insects, spiders etc. That´ll be a problem with the whole stopping down - and -measuring - procedure. Perhapes I go on using my 645N for that. Another option for macro work is the 67 100/4 macro. You can get 1:1 magnification without using extension tubes, so there is no stop down metering. (There is one for sale now in the PF marketplace) https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/24-photographic-equipment-sale/243279-sal...converter.html The only issue with this lens is the VERY close “lens to subject distance” when using high magnification. The optics on the 100/4 are also way better than the 67 135/4 macro. Phil.

01-02-2014, 05:50 PM	#15
Fritzenpapa Forum Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Schwarzwald Photos: Albums Posts: 73 Original Poster	Thank you, Phil. Yes the 100mm lens would be a great option, but unfortunately it is out of reach financially. In the previous year (2013) I sold my whole Mamiya 6x9 Rangefinder - and a very huge 35mm SLR-equipment in order to buy into a good Pentax - MF - nature - photography - equipment. After such expensive purchases as the Pentax 67II body and the 1:4 ED (IF) 300mm (after buying "cheaper" things such as a Pentax 645N + 120mm Makro, Pentax 645 spare body, Pentax 6x7 with AE-Finder, 6x7 55mm, 6x7 35mm, 67 200mm, 1,4x Converter and "small" items such as filters and wooden grips) there´s nothing left to sell to get the money needed for the 100mm - macro ...just the 135mm Macro seems to be affordable with my regular allowance/pocket money