P67 and 35mm Panoramic conversion kit

LFLee · 02-08-2014, 01:48 PM

bought the 35mm panoramic conversion kit a while back from keh.com. I think it's time to take it out for a spin!

- I am going to roll it to a 120 spool the other side and roll it back in after finish shooting.
- I am not using the cover to cover the exposure to the sprocket holes area (like the effect).
- I am going to use the framing cover to help my framing.

I know I need to do the following thing:
- set the film setting to 220.
(any other?)

I have questions:
1. I don't mind if I get partial frame exposure for the first and last frame, I want to get maximum # of frame out of it. Can I start firing shuttle as I close the film door?
2. How do I know when the film is over? is it I will not able to turn the level? specifically, how the 'ending' is like, for those who did this before?
3. I read I can get 18 frames for 36 exposure 35mm film, but I am using 24 exposures film to test this out, how many frames can I expect?

Many thanks!

Bramela · 02-08-2014, 02:03 PM

Bramela · 02-08-2014, 02:05 PM

Let us see some of the results you achieve

Silent Street · 02-08-2014, 06:07 PM

Why hobble the image quality of the 67, at a full 400% bigger than 35mm, with something like this?

I was speaking to a seller on APUG recently who thought this "conversion" kit was more of a gimmick and a nuisance when the spools jiggle around inside the camera. So he was tossing it out for $20. Apparently the results of this kit were not all that appealing, so...

LFLee · 02-08-2014, 06:38 PM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by Silent Street

Why hobble the image quality of the 67, at a full 400% bigger than 35mm, with something like this?

I was speaking to a seller on APUG recently who thought this "conversion" kit was more of a gimmick and a nuisance when the spools jiggle around inside the camera. So he was tossing it out for $20. Apparently the results of this kit were not all that appealing, so...

of course it is a gimmick!

sometime photography is ... trying out something that seem fun, and wait for the outcome.

here is a pic that I found in flickr (from Flickr: ken--'s Photostream)

this one from mamiya camera:

K David · 02-08-2014, 07:16 PM

I duuno. I'd just pick up a 6X9 folder, respool some 35mm onto 120 paper, and do it that way. Yeah, I couldn't change lenses, but that's okay.

Swift1 · 02-08-2014, 07:35 PM

I've always been somewhat curious to try something like this. If it works well enough, it looks like fun, plus a great way to sometimes shoot 35mm panoramic images. The alternative is a Hassy (Fuji) Xpan, and they ain't exactly inexpensive.

Post some shots if you get some.

tuco · 02-09-2014, 10:08 AM

Nothing wrong with experimenting and finding out things first hand for yourself, I say.

K David · 02-09-2014, 12:44 PM

Originally posted by tuco

Nothing wrong with experimenting and finding out things first hand for yourself, I say.

Unless that experiment results in a film end jamming the 6X7s shutter curtain.

Silent Street · 02-09-2014, 02:01 PM

Originally posted by K David

Unless that experiment results in a film end jamming the 6X7s shutter curtain.

One of several problems the conversion kit can cause.

LFLee · 02-09-2014, 02:05 PM

Alright, I figure a way to be able to fire the shutter right away instead of wasting several frames at the beginning. As 35mm film strip start much earlier than 120 film.

Basically once you make sure the film securely rotated in the spool, you turn the shutter count counter-clockwise to get pass 0, then close the door, and you can shoot right away once you cocked. (basically like you plan to dry fire the camera). I started out at counter 2, and after a shooting session today, the counter move as usual to 10.

Will try to finish the roll and post some result. I use the 45mm today but will use 105mm for the remaining shots.

The fit is, quite tight and the 35mm film canister did not wobble inside the tray, The two fitting "nuts" are different sizes, and if you put them wrongly in the canister, it will wobble. Will show a picture tonight. Oh, I end up did not use the framing as well, as I am afraid it will affect the metering...

Pic showing the fitting, pretty tight, I folded the tip of the film strip, since 120 film usually have one to help roll on the spool:

Here is how it roll to the spool, got to make sure the film is not tilted, as you can see, I don't want to use the frame, for I wanted the sprocket holes area to expose as well, and also don't want to mess with the curtain:

Silent Street · 02-09-2014, 03:43 PM

If you're worried about this affecting metering, then disregard the TTL meter and use a handheld incident or spot/multispot meter. This is of course an invaluable skill and the results will often be better than the quite rudimentary TTL meter.

tuco · 02-09-2014, 06:56 PM

And just how does that jam the shutter curtain? The film in the canister is taped. I take it you don't force it out of the canister on the last frame?

LFLee · 02-09-2014, 08:34 PM

Originally posted by tuco

And just how does that jam the shutter curtain? The film in the canister is taped. I take it you don't force it out of the canister on the last frame?

oh, there is really nothing to jam the curtain. The kit come with a frame, that allow you put in in the curtain box (and block out the film's sprocket holes), you can see this in the first pic, one of the two square looking thing. I did not put that in since I want sprocket hole to expose and don't want to put anything close to the curtain.

If you connect the film to another empty film canister, at you finish the film, you take it out (but probably ruin the last frame. or you like what I did here, you roll the film to a 120 spool, and once I finish the film, I will need to take it out in a darkroom and roll the film back to the canister.

I imagine once it reached the end of film I will no longer be able to wind the shutter (and not to break the film!

)

Hope to finish the roll this few days and bring it to develop!

hks_kansei · 02-09-2014, 09:45 PM

I'm all for experimenting photographically.
It makes it a lot more interesting that going "oh look, another shot of that same rose I've used 6 rolls on already"

I'm just curious on a couple of things.
Without the frames, what keeps the film flat?

Also, (ignoring the experiment part) would future pano shots be simpler to just use a normal 120/220 roll and cut down the negatives afterwards?

02-08-2014, 01:48 PM	#1
LFLee Veteran Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Southern California Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,292	P67 and 35mm Panoramic conversion kit bought the 35mm panoramic conversion kit a while back from keh.com. I think it's time to take it out for a spin! - I am going to roll it to a 120 spool the other side and roll it back in after finish shooting. - I am not using the cover to cover the exposure to the sprocket holes area (like the effect). - I am going to use the framing cover to help my framing. I know I need to do the following thing: - set the film setting to 220. (any other?) I have questions: 1. I don't mind if I get partial frame exposure for the first and last frame, I want to get maximum # of frame out of it. Can I start firing shuttle as I close the film door? 2. How do I know when the film is over? is it I will not able to turn the level? specifically, how the 'ending' is like, for those who did this before? 3. I read I can get 18 frames for 36 exposure 35mm film, but I am using 24 exposures film to test this out, how many frames can I expect? Many thanks!

02-08-2014, 06:38 PM - 1 Like	#5
LFLee Veteran Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Southern California Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,292 Original Poster	Originally posted by Silent Street Why hobble the image quality of the 67, at a full 400% bigger than 35mm, with something like this? I was speaking to a seller on APUG recently who thought this "conversion" kit was more of a gimmick and a nuisance when the spools jiggle around inside the camera. So he was tossing it out for $20. Apparently the results of this kit were not all that appealing, so... of course it is a gimmick! sometime photography is ... trying out something that seem fun, and wait for the outcome. here is a pic that I found in flickr (from Flickr: ken--'s Photostream) this one from mamiya camera: Last edited by LFLee; 02-08-2014 at 06:50 PM.

02-09-2014, 02:05 PM	#11
LFLee Veteran Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Southern California Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,292 Original Poster	Alright, I figure a way to be able to fire the shutter right away instead of wasting several frames at the beginning. As 35mm film strip start much earlier than 120 film. Basically once you make sure the film securely rotated in the spool, you turn the shutter count counter-clockwise to get pass 0, then close the door, and you can shoot right away once you cocked. (basically like you plan to dry fire the camera). I started out at counter 2, and after a shooting session today, the counter move as usual to 10. Will try to finish the roll and post some result. I use the 45mm today but will use 105mm for the remaining shots. The fit is, quite tight and the 35mm film canister did not wobble inside the tray, The two fitting "nuts" are different sizes, and if you put them wrongly in the canister, it will wobble. Will show a picture tonight. Oh, I end up did not use the framing as well, as I am afraid it will affect the metering... Pic showing the fitting, pretty tight, I folded the tip of the film strip, since 120 film usually have one to help roll on the spool: Here is how it roll to the spool, got to make sure the film is not tilted, as you can see, I don't want to use the frame, for I wanted the sprocket holes area to expose as well, and also don't want to mess with the curtain: Last edited by LFLee; 02-09-2014 at 03:23 PM.

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02-08-2014, 02:03 PM	#2
Bramela Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Newcastle Australia Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 5,284	le

02-08-2014, 02:05 PM	#3
Bramela Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Newcastle Australia Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 5,284	Let us see some of the results you achieve

02-08-2014, 06:07 PM	#4
Silent Street Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Castlemaine, Victoria, AUS Photos: Albums Posts: 1,151	Why hobble the image quality of the 67, at a full 400% bigger than 35mm, with something like this? I was speaking to a seller on APUG recently who thought this "conversion" kit was more of a gimmick and a nuisance when the spools jiggle around inside the camera. So he was tossing it out for $20. Apparently the results of this kit were not all that appealing, so...

02-08-2014, 07:16 PM	#6
K David Veteran Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Colorado Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,437	I duuno. I'd just pick up a 6X9 folder, respool some 35mm onto 120 paper, and do it that way. Yeah, I couldn't change lenses, but that's okay.

02-08-2014, 07:35 PM	#7
Swift1 Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Oregon Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 5,079	I've always been somewhat curious to try something like this. If it works well enough, it looks like fun, plus a great way to sometimes shoot 35mm panoramic images. The alternative is a Hassy (Fuji) Xpan, and they ain't exactly inexpensive. Post some shots if you get some.

02-09-2014, 10:08 AM	#8
tuco Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Pugetopolis Posts: 11,026	Nothing wrong with experimenting and finding out things first hand for yourself, I say.

02-09-2014, 12:44 PM	#9
K David Veteran Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Colorado Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,437	Originally posted by tuco Nothing wrong with experimenting and finding out things first hand for yourself, I say. Unless that experiment results in a film end jamming the 6X7s shutter curtain.

02-09-2014, 02:01 PM	#10
Silent Street Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Castlemaine, Victoria, AUS Photos: Albums Posts: 1,151	Originally posted by K David Unless that experiment results in a film end jamming the 6X7s shutter curtain. One of several problems the conversion kit can cause.

02-09-2014, 03:43 PM	#12
Silent Street Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Castlemaine, Victoria, AUS Photos: Albums Posts: 1,151	If you're worried about this affecting metering, then disregard the TTL meter and use a handheld incident or spot/multispot meter. This is of course an invaluable skill and the results will often be better than the quite rudimentary TTL meter.

02-09-2014, 06:56 PM	#13
tuco Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Pugetopolis Posts: 11,026	And just how does that jam the shutter curtain? The film in the canister is taped. I take it you don't force it out of the canister on the last frame?

02-09-2014, 08:34 PM	#14
LFLee Veteran Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Southern California Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,292 Original Poster	Originally posted by tuco And just how does that jam the shutter curtain? The film in the canister is taped. I take it you don't force it out of the canister on the last frame? oh, there is really nothing to jam the curtain. The kit come with a frame, that allow you put in in the curtain box (and block out the film's sprocket holes), you can see this in the first pic, one of the two square looking thing. I did not put that in since I want sprocket hole to expose and don't want to put anything close to the curtain. If you connect the film to another empty film canister, at you finish the film, you take it out (but probably ruin the last frame. or you like what I did here, you roll the film to a 120 spool, and once I finish the film, I will need to take it out in a darkroom and roll the film back to the canister. I imagine once it reached the end of film I will no longer be able to wind the shutter (and not to break the film! ) Hope to finish the roll this few days and bring it to develop!

02-09-2014, 09:45 PM	#15
hks_kansei Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Posts: 834	I'm all for experimenting photographically. It makes it a lot more interesting that going "oh look, another shot of that same rose I've used 6 rolls on already" I'm just curious on a couple of things. Without the frames, what keeps the film flat? Also, (ignoring the experiment part) would future pano shots be simpler to just use a normal 120/220 roll and cut down the negatives afterwards?