[barondla]

I just checked mine. Nos 2 and 3 have springs on both levers; No 1 does not on one lever. When all three are connected together, the No 2 and 3 springs work the No 1 lever. My guess is that the No 1 depends on the lens when used alone.

My #1 tube also lacks a spring. Interesting find. The tubes are great for macro and for reducing the close focusing of lenses like the 300 & 400.

Thanks,
barondla

[RICHARD L.]

I also use Tube #2 on my 645 Auto Bellows to create some space between the back flange of the Bellows and the camera body. Easier to mount and dismount the body this way when you have big hands.

[barondla]

I also use Tube #2 on my 645 Auto Bellows to create some space between the back flange of the Bellows and the camera body. Easier to mount and dismount the body this way when you have big hands.

Sure is an impressive combo. Did you ever get all the parts to make the double cable release work?
Thanks,
barondla

[RICHARD L.]

I finally received both the Canon T3 so-called "Cable Release Adapter" as well as the Canon RA-E3 Cable supposedly with a fitting adapter to trigger Pentax cameras. No cable release can be threaded into the T3 adapter, making it totally useless. Then the T3 and RA-E3 cables don't mesh at all so these purchases were to no avail. With one hand, I use a normal cable release located on the front standard to close the lens diaphragm, then trigger the shutter with my second hand and that's what I'll continue to do for the moment. $@#%&!

Regards

[Bob L]

I finally received both the Canon T3 so-called "Cable Release Adapter" as well as the Canon RA-E3 Cable supposedly with a fitting adapter to trigger Pentax cameras. No cable release can be threaded into the T3 adapter, making it totally useless. Then the T3 and RA-E3 cables don't mesh at all so these purchases were to no avail. With one hand, I use a normal cable release located on the front standard to close the lens diaphragm, then trigger the shutter with my second hand and that's what I'll continue to do for the moment. $@#%&!

Regards

I've got a couple of Canon T3 adapters....the Pentax twin cable release works fine with them (as does an old no-name cable release I have), Likewise I have the RA-E3 which converts from the E-3 plug (used on Canon pre-digital era SLR's) to the N3 plug (used on some higher end Canon DSLR's)

Are you certain that the parts are as stated?

Bob

[RICHARD L.]

The Canon T3 I found in Milan (Italy) doesn't seem to be configured like the images I find on Google. It's impossible to thread the Pentax double cable release into it, like a piece was lacking. I found another one in London and I ordered it this morning. We'll see what happens next ...

Regards

[sculptor666]

having been disappointed with the sharpness of the fa120 at apertures smaller than f10, i've settled on the fa75 on a pile of extension tubes... much more compact (easier to get light on a subject with flash) and seems a bit better a f13/14 than others. for anything smaller than a nickel, it makes more sense to use a k-1 or k-3. all handheld

[Ryan Tischer]

Ryan,
Looks like you bought the extension tubes for the 645. I was hoping to get some info from you that will help me determine if I have a bad copy.
I just purchased the extension tubes from somebody on eBay and tube #1 may have a problem.
There are 2 levers on the back of each tube. When you slide them with your finger they automatically spring back into place. One of the levers on tube #1 does not spring back after I move it (as it does on tubes #2 and #3).
I'm thinking there is a spring missing or broken but there's now way for me to know if it is even supposed to spring back.
Can you tell me if both of the levers spring back on your tube #1?


Really appreciate any feedback.


Thanks - Ken Marceau

Hi Ken, I don't have my extension tubes on me, but I'd just give it a try and see if they work, sorry I'm not of more help!

[kmarceau]

Hi Ken, I don't have my extension tubes on me, but I'd just give it a try and see if they work, sorry I'm not of more help!

Thanks Ryan.
My tubes seem to be working fine.
I was just concerned because I couldn't figure out why tube #1wouldn't have a spring.
The general consensus from what I've seen in product photos and replies is that this is normal and I have a good, working copy.
Thanks again for your reply.

[oneill]

The Canon T3 I found in Milan (Italy) doesn't seem to be configured like the images I find on Google. It's impossible to thread the Pentax double cable release into it, like a piece was lacking. I found another one in London and I ordered it this morning. We'll see what happens next ...

Regards

Hey Richard, There are two Canon T3 Adapter and they are DIFFERENT. The boxes look the same but the terminology is "T3 Cable Release Adapter" for the one you want, and "T3 Remote Switch Adapter" for the one you don't want.

Check page Page 62 here for what you need: The Pentax Bellows eBook - Articles and Tips | PentaxForums.com

Stay safe!

Murray

[oneill]

The Canon T3 I found in Milan (Italy) doesn't seem to be configured like the images I find on Google. It's impossible to thread the Pentax double cable release into it, like a piece was lacking. I found another one in London and I ordered it this morning. We'll see what happens next ...

Regards

Hi Richard, I neglected to mention that your 645 Bellows originally came with a version of the Pentax 2P cord that was used on the Pentax IR SET. If you did not get it you can find one and modify it, or the 3P cord, to work on the 645D & Z. That plugs into the connection on the other side of the bellows from the cable connection. And then you can use a single cable release. They show up on eBay once and a while.

[RICHARD L.]

Thank you for this info, Mr O'Neill. I checked carefully on the small box I received from Italy and it was the "T3 Switch Adapter" (the one I didn't need) that they sent me. I ordered another T3 from London (U.K.) and we'll see if it's the correct cable when I receive it. Anyway, using just a single cable release to close the lens' diaphragm and triggering with the other hand isn't so bad, you know. One again, thank you very much for your wise advice.

Regards

[barondla]

having been disappointed with the sharpness of the fa120 at apertures smaller than f10, i've settled on the fa75 on a pile of extension tubes... much more compact (easier to get light on a subject with flash) and seems a bit better a f13/14 than others. for anything smaller than a nickel, it makes more sense to use a k-1 or k-3. all handheld

Fantastic spider image. Takes skill to pull this off hand held. Well done. Lots of macro lenses are listed in your signature. Do you have a favorite?

Thanks for sharing,
barondla

[sculptor666]

Fantastic spider image. Takes skill to pull this off hand held. Well done. Lots of macro lenses are listed in your signature. Do you have a favorite?

Thanks for sharing,
barondla

wow, thanks! the moth was way harder though.... such a thin plane to focus on in the woods at night... took a few tries.


for insects (always with flash) on ff/crop - the sigma 70mm (but need tubes with aperture contact pin) and the dfa50mm macro. if it's raining hard, the dfa100! the elicar 55 is great too, but i almost never end up using it... the front element is recessed a lot, so once you put tubes on it, it's impossible to get light on subjects that are really close to the lens.


for snakes, dragonflies, things that size on ff/crop the sigma 180 or irix 150... both great, slight edge to the irix... mostly i use natural light with those. i always start off with the da*300 though, and switch cameras or lenses if i can get close enough to the subject.


on mf, the dfa90 for larger things, 75 or 55 on tubes for smaller stuff. the 120 is good for larger things... gives you a little more distance before they scurry off, but for me they're too similar in fl, so i'll probably sell the 120... a 200 macro on the 645 would be wonderful. i don't have any long lenses for the Z yet.

[barondla]

wow, thanks! the moth was way harder though.... such a thin plane to focus on in the woods at night... took a few tries.


for insects (always with flash) on ff/crop - the sigma 70mm (but need tubes with aperture contact pin) and the dfa50mm macro. if it's raining hard, the dfa100! the elicar 55 is great too, but i almost never end up using it... the front element is recessed a lot, so once you put tubes on it, it's impossible to get light on subjects that are really close to the lens.


for snakes, dragonflies, things that size on ff/crop the sigma 180 or irix 150... both great, slight edge to the irix... mostly i use natural light with those. i always start off with the da*300 though, and switch cameras or lenses if i can get close enough to the subject.


on mf, the dfa90 for larger things, 75 or 55 on tubes for smaller stuff. the 120 is good for larger things... gives you a little more distance before they scurry off, but for me they're too similar in fl, so i'll probably sell the 120... a 200 macro on the 645 would be wonderful. i don't have any long lenses for the Z yet.

Have you tried the Pentax 1.4X Rear Converter with the 120 or 90 macro? It fits the 120, not sure about the 90. Do you find the 90 handles stopping down past f14 better than the 120?

Do you prefer the Irix 150 over the Sigma 180 for image quality, or other reasons?
Thanks,
barondla