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07-03-2014, 04:00 PM   #31
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Nikon Photo Contest

Quote:
About the Nikon Photo Contest

NIKON PHOTO CONTEST 2014 - 2015 SINCE 1969

Nikon Photo Contest

Extract:

Submission Guideline
Still photography

Image data files created with any digital devices including smartphones, digital still cameras (including medium and large-format cameras). Images that have been retouched using software or by other means will be accepted. Retouched photography using camera app or photo editing app is also accepted. Both color and monochrome images will be accepted. We will not be accepting any entries taken on film.Scans of photographs taken by film cameras are not eligible.

07-03-2014, 04:25 PM   #32
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This has drawn fire over at APUG.ORG for its bias against scanned images.
It's not a good look for Nikon.
07-03-2014, 04:52 PM   #33
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Nikon is pushing their DSLRs. Companies have to grow after all...
07-03-2014, 06:07 PM   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by Nuff Quote
Nikon is pushing their DSLRs. Companies have to grow after all...
F6 from Nikon

Quote :
F6 -
⋆⋆⋆⋆⋆
14
Product 1799
$2,669.95


Is that the price for body only ?

07-03-2014, 07:04 PM   #35
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That's one camera out of how many? And I bet it's the bottom seller for them as well. How much advertising have you seen for it compared to d5xxxx or something like that?
07-04-2014, 12:10 AM   #36
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Racist.
07-04-2014, 12:30 AM   #37
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Well, I'm sure it has no impact on any of our photos I wouldn't submit them to comp anyway, all they are good for is for the company that runs it, to get cheap photos and advertising. Yes, I'm a bit of a cynic
07-09-2014, 08:11 AM - 1 Like   #38
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QuoteOriginally posted by Nuff Quote
...
If you want sharp 6x7, don't get pentax, get Mamiya RB/RZ 67 or Mamiya 7. Sharp lenses and leaf shutters so they don't suffer from shutter bounce like Pentax 67. That's why those photos are not sharp.
Do you say that from experience shooting a Pentax 67 or parroting what you hear on the web? Let's get practical, who in the hell wants to haul around a RZ for handhold work? The Pentax 6x7 shutter is more of an issue with long focal lengths like the 300mm and longer.

I have a 500C/M, M7II and Pentax 67. I have been shooting medium format for 25 years. Is that long enough to have an opinion tempered with experience? What camera I reach for to take out shooting is not influenced by sharpness at all. They all do great. I scan my negatives at a true 4000dpi. When I zoom in 1:1 and look at them, it is a function of focus and a particular lens that dictates sharpness more than the shutter on the Pentax 6x7.

And here is how you can tell. Take a long exposure with a Pentax 67. Say 30+ seconds. That is long enough to cancel out any shutter vibration because it is too short of a duration in the over-all exposure to be recorded. Now compare that to a normal shot. I have done that countless times and time and time again the normal shots do very well.


Last edited by tuco; 07-09-2014 at 12:09 PM.
07-09-2014, 06:16 PM   #39
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QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
Do you say that from experience shooting a Pentax 67 or parroting what you hear on the web? Let's get practical, who in the hell wants to haul around a RZ for handhold work? The Pentax 6x7 shutter is more of an issue with long focal lengths like the 300mm and longer.

I have a 500C/M, M7II and Pentax 67. I have been shooting medium format for 25 years. Is that long enough to have an opinion tempered with experience? What camera I reach for to take out shooting is not influenced by sharpness at all. They all do great. I scan my negatives at a true 4000dpi. When I zoom in 1:1 and look at them, it is a function of focus and a particular lens that dictates sharpness more than the shutter on the Pentax 6x7.

And here is how you can tell. Take a long exposure with a Pentax 67. Say 30+ seconds. That is long enough to cancel out any shutter vibration because it is too short of a duration in the over-all exposure to be recorded. Now compare that to a normal shot. I have done that countless times and time and time again the normal shots do very well.
It's a week old thread and I will not be reading it again, but from what I recall, sharpness is the primary concern of OP. I used a borrowed P67, I don't own one and I don't pixel peep, damn, I like the look of Delta 3200 pushed to 6400 in 35mm, I like look of lenses etc... and depending on what I want that's what I will use. But OP isn't me or you and he places value on different attributes than us.

PS: I'm brand/camera agnostic, none of the brands are paying me to use their gear. I just look at them as tools.
07-10-2014, 05:34 AM   #40
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A 24x36 print can be done on the k5 series. I have a small side business with photography and I show processed pictures on my Visio 42in TV. The size on the screen is essentially 24x36 and they look crisp and clear. You don't need a FF to get 24x36 as the k5s will get you there if you shoot full resolution and don't crop. I have an MPIX canvas of our family 16x24 and it is perfect in every way. But the truth is what Aurelle said, Glass is the real important one. My big pictures that get shown are either from my DA*55, Tamron 17-50, Tamron 70-200 (incredible lens for everything), or the DA 35 2.4. The best cameras don't make the best pictures - the best photographers with the best glass do.
07-10-2014, 08:09 AM   #41
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QuoteOriginally posted by Nuff Quote
It's a week old thread and I will not be reading it again, but from what I recall, sharpness is the primary concern of OP.
Thats aspect is easily sorted out : any proper technique in holding the camera (wether it be APS-C, FF, 645, 67) will prevent motion blur.

When it comes to sharpness : it depends on the lens.

So, it's up to your budget (for lenses) and the usability of the camera for the job required that will defined wich one is best for you.
07-10-2014, 08:23 AM   #42
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If you are taking things to the limit with medium format film, you can see the difference in lenses and perhaps even camera vibration. But I say the hell with that. Move up to the next format if you are going to be pushing things to the limit for print size vs film format. And a camera with movements will get you sharper deep near-to-far DOF shots anyway. With 6x7 medium format, you often need to focus stack if you expect crisp, sharp near to far due to the longer focal lengths involved for a fixed lens to film plane camera.

---------- Post added 07-10-14 at 08:41 ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Nuff Quote
...I like the look of Delta 3200 pushed to 6400 in 35mm, I like look of lenses etc... and depending on what I want that's what I will use.
You won't like it on medium format then. There is pretty good grain at 1:1 but scaled down from approx 10,000 x 8,000 pixels to approx 1000 x 800 pixels to display on the computer screen you cut out a lot of grain. Here a few Delta 3200 shots on medium format posted before.







07-10-2014, 09:17 AM   #43
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QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
Here a few Delta 3200 shots on medium format posted before.
Who said 3200 iso film is grainy ?
07-10-2014, 11:51 AM   #44
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I have the following cameras that I most commonly use:

Mamiya 7 + Nikon 9000 scanner
Nikon 800e
Sigma DP2 Merrill

As I have gotten older and lazier I seem to have developed a serious affliction to weight and hassel! So for the last 2 years my goto camera has been the Sigma dp2 Merrill. I get absolutely stunning 20" x30" prints (off my Epson 9890) and a level of sharpness corner to corner that I cannot get with my D800e or Mamiya 7. The foveon sensor produces a good look and converts to black and white better than standard bayer sensor cameras (IMO). I think you can get a DP2 cheap these days ($700 at B&H!!). Using this camera is a pleasure because you don't worry about lenses and it is lightweight! I might be flamed for saying this, but up to 20" x 30" prints it will go toe-to-toe with the best cameras out there.

That all being said 90% of my art sales are from old stock of 6x7 negs (Pentax 67 and Mamiya 7) and 4x5 negs (scanned on a 4990). These images are nowhere as sharp as my dp2 shots, but they have the "magic" of film. Especially for black and white, film still rules.

To be honest, for my reality, I rarely sell anything larger than a 16" x 20" print, so it doesn't matter what camera I use - unless I want the "magic" of B&W negatives (but that takes effort! ).

But why do I still want a 645d or 645z?????
07-10-2014, 12:22 PM   #45
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QuoteOriginally posted by EarthImage Quote
... I might be flamed for saying this, but up to 20" x 30" prints it will go toe-to-toe with the best cameras out there.

:
I don't think you'll get flamed. They are great cameras; however, they are analogous to shooting 100 film, IMHO. Only good light or tripod work. Define the best in terms of action, fast spontaneous candid, focal length options, lower light and photographic scope and it kind of starts to falls short, no? There is no one camera that can claim it all.
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