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07-17-2014, 11:49 AM   #1
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woo hoo!!

It begins! arrived in the mail today! taking it out for a portrait test run this weekend. Don't have a light meter yet so I will probably still take along my digital camera for readings....



https://www.flickr.com/photos/94842302@N08/14678463095/

---------- Post added 07-17-14 at 01:52 PM ----------

well...don't know why the pic doesn't post....but the link will take you to my new to me Pentax 67. came in the mail this morning,

07-17-2014, 01:13 PM   #2
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QuoteOriginally posted by timwatersphoto Quote
It begins! arrived in the mail today! taking it out for a portrait test run this weekend. Don't have a light meter yet so I will probably still take along my digital camera for readings....



https://www.flickr.com/photos/94842302@N08/14678463095/

---------- Post added 07-17-14 at 01:52 PM ----------

well...don't know why the pic doesn't post....but the link will take you to my new to me Pentax 67. came in the mail this morning,
That looks to be in good shape. Enjoy!
07-17-2014, 01:15 PM   #3
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Congrats! I just got my first roll from my recently acquired 6x7 back from developing and can see that:

1. It's going to take some practice to get technique right
2. Once I get it right, I'm going to love the results (had a couple I got right, and wow)

Good luck!
07-17-2014, 02:33 PM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by timwatersphoto Quote

well...don't know why the pic doesn't post...
Are you using the BBCode link Flickr provides?







---------- Post added 07-17-14 at 14:41 ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by timwatersphoto Quote
Don't have a light meter yet so I will probably still take along my digital camera for readings....
That camera looks to have the metered TTL prism to me.

07-17-2014, 03:56 PM   #5
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Beaut! It's looking as solid and ready as any of the real cameras that the 67 ranks among. No digital nancy this one.
07-17-2014, 05:02 PM   #6
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Think you are excited now? Wait until you get some images back !
07-18-2014, 10:29 AM   #7
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Welcome to the club. I suggest using a gray card to meter with that TTL prism for best results. It can get faked out in scenes with bright or dark areas.
07-18-2014, 03:24 PM   #8
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I suggest investing in, and learning, a spot-incident meter. This is tremendously accurate when used correctly and will take away any niggling doubts about the known rudimentary nature of the TTL prism meter and it's gradual loss of accuracy over a long period of time.

07-18-2014, 05:15 PM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by Silent Street Quote
TTL prism meter and it's gradual loss of accuracy over a long period of time.
This is true and the TTL needs to be re-calibrated every few years if one is to use it as a primary metering tool. A hand held spot meter works better for most people though.
07-18-2014, 05:16 PM   #10
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I have an old minolta spot meter but it doesn't do incident readings. i am waiting on another payment then looking to buy a sekonic l-358.

I will definitely look at a grey card. How does this camera adjust for white balance?

Also - I was kinda thrown by the appearance of a battery. Whats battery life like?

Am pretty stoked. I am taking a model out Wednesday for some portraits at a state park.
07-18-2014, 05:31 PM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by timwatersphoto Quote

How does this camera adjust for white balance?
New to film? You use filters on your lens to change the WB of the film. Or, for a figital workflow, you adjust it in the image editor. A one degree spot meter will tell you way more information than an incident meter.
07-18-2014, 10:56 PM   #12
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Mostly new. I had a Hassleblad (well, still do) that i played with 13 years ago. I dont remember what I did with white balance. A lot easier with digital and raw files
07-18-2014, 11:33 PM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by timwatersphoto Quote
I have an old minolta spot meter but it doesn't do incident readings. i am waiting on another payment then looking to buy a sekonic l-358.

I will definitely look at a grey card. How does this camera adjust for white balance?

Also - I was kinda thrown by the appearance of a battery. Whats battery life like?

Am pretty stoked. I am taking a model out Wednesday for some portraits at a state park.


I don't see how a grey card is the be all and end all of a beautiful photograph; it can help in certain circumstances but a spot and/or incident meter (noting both versions of meter have their very definite uses) used competently will sort out a scene. IMO, there is nothing really wrong to be averse to the 67's TTL meter (except known age); run some standard exposure tests on slide film; any gross under- or over-exposure will be very evident if the meter is out of whack. A good meter will handle even very contrasty scenes (which is also where a spot meter will excel).

The 67 bodies are frugal with the 6v battery but you need to be careful with mirror lock-up and long exposures; a fresh battery used for a long exposure (e.g. star trails) will last about 5-5.30 hours. MLU and Bulb are battery drainers (operated by arcane solenoids) so MLU, for e.g. tripod work, long lens use, should be used immediately before tripping the shutter.

Also, after a shoot, tape the MLU button on the side (if it has one) so that it is not accidentally tripped when you put the beastie in the bag for travel. It's infuriating to go fetch it only to find mirror lock up has tripped and flattened the battery.

I think I'll pass on your question on how the 67 adjusts for white balance. But in this analogue school, you are the one who solves the simple and the difficult exposure problems, not the camera (as is the universal case with digital).
07-19-2014, 08:49 AM   #14
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The battery on my 67 has lasted for years. In the last 25 years I can count the number of times I've changed the battery on one hand. I shoot without the TTL metered prism though.

And with the latitude of films like Portra 400 and BW film, you can get by without a light meter during the daytime with a little experience. About all the BW shots I have posted here in the last year and more shot during the daytime have been done without a meter. It's easy once you learn something about the EV value of your shadows.
07-19-2014, 10:57 AM   #15
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QuoteOriginally posted by Silent Street Quote
I don't see how a grey card is the be all and end all of a beautiful photograph; it can help in certain circumstances but a spot and/or incident meter (noting both versions of meter have their very definite uses) used competently will sort out a scene.
The key word is "competently". Metering mistakes can be made with any metering system. The beauty of a gray card is that its 18% reflectance matches what in-camera meters read. If used incorrectly, errors in exposure will be seen. Having the card angled wrong can cause hot or cool spots, so using it properly is important. Errors can be made with a hand held spot meter as well, so competence comes into play with that as well. In the end, it comes down to personal preference as to which system is used. For my 67s I use a gray card and TTL, for my 4x5 I have no choice in the matter.

Last edited by desertscape; 07-19-2014 at 12:56 PM.
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