[Silent Street]

Shift-only is not particularly useful for any sort of photography. Shift and tilt though can be enormously useful in skilled and experienced hands with knowledge gained from e.g. large format camera use in architectural/orthogonal applications. And usually not with any sort of camera with autofocus, as this would interfere with manipulation of the focus plane and peg. It must necessarily be manual and with very precise, incremental adjustment. The tilt/shift (and other movements in e.g. large format) genre It certainly is not something that can be learnt and mastered overnight, more likely over several years of intensive use. To see how difficult the application is, get your hands on either Nikon's tilt/shift lenses or Canon's TS-Es (24, 45 and 90mm). I was trained over 6 years from 1993 in both practical and advanced application of the TS-E lenses (same skills apply to Nikon's).

[KDINDC]

Shift-only is not particularly useful for any sort of photography. Shift and tilt though can be enormously useful in skilled and experienced hands with knowledge gained from e.g. large format camera use in architectural/orthogonal applications. And usually not with any sort of camera with autofocus, as this would interfere with manipulation of the focus plane and peg. It must necessarily be manual and with very precise, incremental adjustment. The tilt/shift (and other movements in e.g. large format) genre It certainly is not something that can be learnt and mastered overnight, more likely over several years of intensive use. To see how difficult the application is, get your hands on either Nikon's tilt/shift lenses or Canon's TS-Es (24, 45 and 90mm). I was trained over 6 years from 1993 in both practical and advanced application of the TS-E lenses (same skills apply to Nikon's).

I agree with all but the first sentence. I do a lot of stitching in my photography. Shift provides an reliable and efficient method of adding another row of panels. My primary motivation for getting a T/S lens was to use tilt to be able to extend depth of field in my landscape photography. It had been 'hit and miss' until I discovered a T/S app. It provides a calculation of the amount of tilt to use. So after owning the lens for 2 years, I am beginning to get controlled results.

[Silent Street]

It had been 'hit and miss' until I discovered a T/S app.

A T/S app......hmmm.

But it's straightforward, with only your phone and its calculator required: sine angle of tilt = f/ / Dist.
e.g. photographing an engagement ring with a TS-E 24mm: 24/175 (mm with target subject area or sharpness [peg] of 17.5cm from PPL [principal plane of lens]) then with the SCI calculator a resulting sine of ........ 8° (the same formula is used in large format work involving movements of the lens and/or focal plane, with some additional references involved). That small 24/175 example would be applicable only to 35mm; the same thing on 4x5 (f/ 100) would result in an angle of ...... 35° (!), introducing vignetting and hobbling the image through aberration.

That (mathematical approach) has been one method I have used since training, but a visual cue of placement is also important.
I'm not keen on adding any more apps to my phone to keep the weight low...

[Sarnian]

There are a couple of Schneider Componons with M50 x 0.75 threads, Mark. They're actually spec'd as enlarger lenses but they produce a 15cm image circle at their designed register distance which is longer than that of P645/P67 lenses...making them usable for tilt-shift with some impact on close focus ability.

Bob

Thanks, Bob; I'll do some research. You're the first person to even give me a smidgen of an idea!

How's my 28-45mm working out for you? I managed to pick up a D-FA 25mm to fill the hole that it left!

[KDINDC]

A T/S app......hmmm.

But it's straightforward, with only your phone and its calculator required: sine angle of tilt = f/ / Dist.
e.g. photographing an engagement ring with a TS-E 24mm: 24/175 (mm with target subject area or sharpness [peg] of 17.5cm from PPL [principal plane of lens]) then with the SCI calculator a resulting sine of ........ 8° (the same formula is used in large format work involving movements of the lens and/or focal plane, with some additional references involved). That small 24/175 example would be applicable only to 35mm; the same thing on 4x5 (f/ 100) would result in an angle of ...... 35° (!), introducing vignetting and hobbling the image through aberration.

That (mathematical approach) has been one method I have used since training, but a visual cue of placement is also important.
I'm not keen on adding any more apps to my phone to keep the weight low...

Great! I've never seen that calculation before. I'll stick with the app. Looking for the easy way :-)

[Bob L]

Thanks, Bob; I'll do some research. You're the first person to even give me a smidgen of an idea!

How's my 28-45mm working out for you? I managed to pick up a D-FA 25mm to fill the hole that it left!

Sorry, missed this, Mark.

It's clearly a superb lens and my ability with landscapes doesn't do it justice.....I'm a portrait/sport/macro/bird type that wants to try different things when the opportunity arises.

Bob

[KDINDC]

Great! I've never seen that calculation before. I'll stick with the app. Looking for the easy way :-)

Now, I've seen a video on youtube about focusing a tilt/shift. Focus the near using the focusing ring and tilt to get the far in focusing. Do this cycle three times to get all in focus. If the mid-ground is out of focus, stop down.

[Sarnian]

Sorry, missed this, Mark.

It's clearly a superb lens and my ability with landscapes doesn't do it justice.....I'm a portrait/sport/macro/bird type that wants to try different things when the opportunity arises.

Bob

Hey Bob,

I've managed to pick up an As New (30 clicks) 28-45mm for £2,000!! My D-FA 25mm, although loved, will have to go to make room for it.

[Ed Hurst]

Hey Bob,

I've managed to pick up an As New (30 clicks) 28-45mm for £2,000!! My D-FA 25mm, although loved, will have to go to make room for it.

Would you mind sending me a PM with the price you want for the 25 DFA please?

[Sarnian]

Would you mind sending me a PM with the price you want for the 25 DFA please?

Hi Ed,

PM sent.

Mark

[Bob L]

Hey Bob,

I've managed to pick up an As New (30 clicks) 28-45mm for £2,000!! My D-FA 25mm, although loved, will have to go to make room for it.

That's an incredible price, Mark, and is encouraging that there are bargains to be had for anyone who's patient.

[Sarnian]

Hey Bob,

I've managed to pick up an As New (30 clicks) 28-45mm for £2,000!! My D-FA 25mm, although loved, will have to go to make room for it.

I received the 28-45mm. Whoa! I've gotten used to the smaller and lighter D-FA 25mm so the 28-45mm feels twice as heavy! Some of this might be physiological due to its sheer girth and that it's quite end-heavy.

I take photos to make paintings from so I'm a zoom in and around kind of guy. I will therefore still sell the D-FA 25mm... but get myself a gym membership, too!

[Sarnian]

I didn't want to start a new thread so I've located this old one...

I've managed to pick up a Mamiya 50mm Shift lens which has been converted to the Arri PL mount. From what I can make out, this appears to be a very rare conversion. Does anybody know if there's an adapter out there that will allow an Arri PL mount lens to be used with my 645Z? I've seen adapters that will allow it to be used on a Sony A7Rii or a Canon 5D but I've drawn a blank with finding a Pentax adapter.

Thanks for any insights!

Mark

[Gerd]

I have the Mamiya 645 Sekor Shift 50mm F4. Mamiya has a shorter run length and can not be adapted to the Pentax 645.

Pentax 645 - 70.87
Mamiya 645 - 63.30mm

That's why I can only use the Mamiya on the GFX 50s and not on the 645Z.

Greeting Gerd

[Sarnian]

Thanks, Gerd.

Yes, I've seen an Arri PL to GFX 50s adapter.