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09-21-2016, 02:16 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by CreationBear Quote

Tuco-- that's a good point...and no doubt I'll come up with dead batteries at some point from using MLU and forgetting it!
I use the folding hood so it saves on battery life vs a metered prism. But you can take a lot of 30 second to 240 second shots with a new battery in my case. Be sure to always carry a spare though

I went two seasons of doing a lot of long exposures on ocean scenes in the range 30 to 240 second range before I replaced the battery. And I've gone 5 years with sub one-second exposures and that folding hood, FYI. But I think a long 1 hour exposure or similar and you'll be replacing it pretty fast.

Long exposure tip for when you forget to bring a locking cable release:

Put the camera's shutter speed half way between X-sync and 1/1000. Push the shutter button. The shutter will stay locked open until you rotate the shutter speed dial off that position. That works for exposures over 30 seconds where you handling the camera won't get noticed on the exposure so easily if at all.

09-21-2016, 05:43 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by Pablo Villegas Quote
I don't know if the Pentax 67 has a mirror up option, but you should certainly use it, for longer exposures.
Most do (the 1990s-era P67 bodies do). It is used a few seconds prior to tripping the shutter to (drastically) reduce vibration and inertia of both mirror rising and the shutter opening. Can be used with all lenses but is most beneficial for tele lenses prone to exacerbating the tiniest movement. MLU is used full-tiime as a matter of procedure in all of my landscape work (tripod-based).

TIP: When packing a P67 with MLU away in the pack, tape over the MLU nib; otherwise movement of the camera inside the pack and activate the MLU. Ta-da! You go to haul it out for action and you find it has a flat battery!

---------- Post added 22-09-16 at 10:49 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by CreationBear Quote
[...]

Speaking of that "trebuchet" shutter, though--I've seen where some people actually "hand-hold" the camera body while it's on the tripod to help dampen vibrations...any other tips or tricks?

The camera should not be held, but you can clasp the head of the tripod. Practised and refined technique will reap the rewards. A cavalier attitude to hand-holding the P67 under any and all circumstances will be your point of undoing eventually. Tripod-mounted work, with conscionable attention to eliminating shutter/mirror whack, will provide you with the very best image quality. A heavy tripod is not required, just a steady and methodical process of preparation and triggering the shutter. Nothing more. If you really need a stable tripod, pack a plastic bag with you and fill it with dirt or rocks and hang it from the centre column of the tripod. I do this in very windy conditions say at the beach, filling the bag with sand.

Last edited by Silent Street; 09-21-2016 at 06:26 PM.
09-21-2016, 05:54 PM   #18
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Awesome, this is really turning into a pretty comprehensive "Wiki"--thanks for your patience and generosity.
09-21-2016, 06:12 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
Just an FYI. Exposures over, say, 10 seconds why bother with MLU. The duration of any vibrations is so short compared to the length of the exposure you won't record any vibration. And in the case of 2 to 4 minute exposures which I encounter a lot ( hardly any 2 to 4 second shots) it absolutely doesn't matter if you use MLU.
I've found that it's useful to 30 seconds or more, I hardly take a exposure of more than 30sec, but it is useful, you can get the motion in 30 seconds at night, the starts are not going to be as sharp. Basically any bright spot in your picture.

10-03-2016, 06:29 PM   #20
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I find most of my exposures below 1 second are in the 2-8 second range. The reciprocity iPhone app has been extremely useful to calculate times as well as a timer.
10-04-2016, 08:50 AM   #21
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Oh, you're Jim Watts--your website was what tipped me over the edge into obsessing over MF in the first place... I suspect the light in Cali might fit Portra 160 better than what I find here in TN/NC, but you've brought back some great images.


At any rate, thanks for the tip--as one of the last users of a flip-phone in the Western Hemisphere, I'll have to borrow my wife's, but it will definitely make for one less page in my notebook, especially if I start shooting Velvia 50.
10-04-2016, 07:17 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by CreationBear Quote
The P6x7 and P67 are at a much more reasonable price point for me than the 67ii--especially since I'm shooting off a tripod almost always--but I'm concerned whether their relatively "fast" lowest shutter speed is going to trip me up.
I would get a 67II, as it's worth the extra money. You also have a 30 second shutter speed at the low end in AUTO. (4 seconds in manual)

The user changeable focusing screens, TTL flash and the AE prism features make this body light years better than the older 6x7 & 67, which I also have.

Phil.
10-04-2016, 08:10 PM   #23
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FYI, I went poking around the App Stores and the most promising reciprocity failure calculators appear to be Exposure Plus on iOS and Exposure Assistant on Android. Lots of particularly poor apps in that niche.

10-04-2016, 11:46 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by lithedreamer Quote
FYI, I went poking around the App Stores and the most promising reciprocity failure calculators appear to be Exposure Plus on iOS and Exposure Assistant on Android. Lots of particularly poor apps in that niche.
The one I use is called reciprocity timer, and it's ok for what's intended.

Reciprocity Timer | Facebook
10-05-2016, 08:54 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by gofour3 Quote
I would get a 67II, as it's worth the extra money. You also have a 30 second shutter speed at the low end in AUTO. (4 seconds in manual)

Thanks, Phil--I was actually heading that way, especially if its meter is good enough to obviate the need for a separate spot meter. Besides, after sifting through a bunch of FOV angles of the 6x7 offerings, I've about reached the conclusion that an amateur at least could make do with just a two lens kit (though if you have an ironclad rationalization for the 75/2.8 AL, I would love to hear it.)
10-05-2016, 01:19 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by CreationBear Quote
(though if you have an ironclad rationalization for the 75/2.8 AL, I would love to hear it.
You need to keep in mind that for the landscapes that I hear you describing, DOF becomes an issue. Most of the f/22 lenses will be limited in that regard (with the exception of the 45mm). You really need to consider the f/32 lenses and even the f/45, 90-180 zoom. Mamiya had offered many f/32 lenses for its 6x7 cameras but Pentax was late to the game on this. Still, there are several to choose from.
10-05-2016, 01:46 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by desertscape Quote
for the landscapes

You've definitely put that issue on my radar, especially since apparently it will take a bit of trial and error to learn what the markings on the lens barrel(s) actually refer to in terms of infinity and hyperfocal distances. (Hard to chimp when the USPS is involved...I'll have to take careful notes!)


At any rate, coming from a crop sensor background I was surprised how skewed toward wide angle the 6x7 format is...I'll definitely have to retrain my eye, though of course that same shallow DOF probably makes each FL seem longer than it really is.
10-05-2016, 03:53 PM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by CreationBear Quote
Thanks, Phil--I was actually heading that way, especially if its meter is good enough to obviate the need for a separate spot meter. Besides, after sifting through a bunch of FOV angles of the 6x7 offerings, I've about reached the conclusion that an amateur at least could make do with just a two lens kit (though if you have an ironclad rationalization for the 75/2.8 AL, I would love to hear it.)

Good enough? Hmmm. That's subjective. But here is my 5c worth...

There is much to be said to rise above what a camera provides, to reinforce the use of a spot/multispot meter and how it can dramatically improve over the rudimentary metering of both the 6x7 / 67 and the 67II. A multispot meter will allow you (skills providing!) to shoot on the margin with contrasty film in equally contrasty conditions (e.g. Velvia), even though doing such is not strictly sensible given that mentioned film's limited tolerance. Can the 67II do that? From what I have seen, no, not really.

The scope of variations of one exposure (with known outcomes from experience) is significantly more than can be envisioned with an onboard meter. But, I realise for some people, getting an image 'in the bag' as quickly as possible without any extra work is much more preferable to wielding a meter and taking full control. To each his own. But my mujltispot-metered images with the 67 (and latterly Hassie 503cxi) are never rushed. That said, I sometimes cut the TTL meter some slack and allow it to go to work on dusk / afterglow scenes. I run a parallel separate meter test to keep an eye on it!

The squat, light, bright, delightfully touchy-feely 75mm f2.8AL is the lens to angle for above others (that includes the equivalent, heavier, slower f4 version), except maybe also the all-seeing 45mm f4 as a worthy accompaniment to jump from standard to wide without carrying a large kit and caboodle. Maybe throw in the same-sized 90mm f2.8? No concern about hyperfocal use with the 45mm in landscape; it is very deep and gets things nicely in place from f8 to f11. I print very, very large from this lens, also the 75mmAL and 90mm.
10-05-2016, 05:12 PM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by Silent Street Quote
The scope of variations of one exposure

Much food for thought, SS--a very different game from the digital 5-shot bracket, then sifting through PS channels and color spaces! Of course, I'm late to the party experience-wise (having previously having been a first-rate trout bum) so I'm willing to say the intricacies of film might still be eluding me when I'm "sans teeth, sans eyes, sans taste, sans everything."


Otherwise, thanks for the 75/2.8 testimonial...on the most mundane level, the bright viewfinder has to be a blessing when you can't zone focus.
10-05-2016, 05:51 PM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by CreationBear Quote
[...]

Otherwise, thanks for the 75/2.8 testimonial...on the most mundane level, the bright viewfinder has to be a blessing when you can't zone focus.

Above all else, that is a qualifying factor!
No need for zone focus, just use the central prism area or the matte area.
A lot of my work is produced in deep, dark, very wet and just plain gloomy rainforests. The 75AL has saved the day time and time again when even the 45mm (ideal for this environment) was too difficult and fiddly to focus, even without a polariser (a C-POL is used for all rainforest work). Put a C-POL on the 75AL and it doesn't make much of a difference at all.

The cost of that lens may well have you going back to trout-bumming in shock!
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