[rollsman4]

I have only seen the Rubber ones for this lens. I have one and it keeps falling off. Is there another one out there that will Not fall off even 3rd party?
Thank you

[Alex645]

For over 30 years, I have had and used my Pentax 645 A 75mm f/2.8 with various lens hoods. It uses the same size 58mm diameter screw on round hood as the FA version.

At first, I was frustrated at how the Pentax, and invariably any collapsible rubber shade will separate from the screw on ring. I then used plastic or metal variants, but discovered I prefer a hood that will absorb shock and not possibly damage the lens ring because itʻs too rigid.

Currently B&H carries variations that will work from $6 on a generic, $7 for Sensei which includes a center pinch lens cap (helpful), B+W for $13, and a Heliopan for $34.

General Brand 58mm Collapsible Rubber Lens Hood NP11058 B&H
Sensei 58mm Collapsible Rubber Lens Hood LHR-58 B&H Photo Video
B+W 58mm #900 Rubber Lens Hood 65-069607 B&H Photo Video
Heliopan 58mm Screw-in Rubber Lens Hood 71058H B&H Photo Video

The cheaper stuff uses a plastic ring which is more likely to cross thread if you constantly take it off and on, but metal rings can go out of round and seize as well and have their own pros and cons. The longevity of any of these has more to do with how often you collapse and re-extend them vs. leaving them extended. I am not a fan of any of the 3-in-1 type adjustable rubber hoods as they seem to never be in the correct length that I set it in. Just more hassle and potential for vignetting.

Some Pentax hoods (dedicated petal types with removable door for polarizers) make sense but are pricey. For this lens, however, I have used and donʻt see any benefit in buying the more expensive Pentax or Hoya versions.

[Silent Street]

Some Pentax hoods (dedicated petal types with removable door for polarizers) make sense but are pricey. For this lens, however, I have used and donʻt see any benefit in buying the more expensive Pentax or Hoya versions.

The reason for petal hoods is they precisely match the view of the lens. A round hood can potentially vignette, and this may or may not be visible in the viewfinder. It's always a good idea to take your camera with you when seeking out a hood. That little trapdoor thingy is a menace; lose that in the wilds and there is a potential entry for side light to flare and ghost. I have a lens cap tether attached to mine so there is no grief on-loc.

The expense of OEM Pentax petal hoods can be offset by buying cloned ones with the JJC name; much the same thing (if you match to the intended lens(s) ), much cheaper, but questions about the quality of the fitting and durability have arisen in the past.

[Alex645]

The reason for petal hoods is they precisely match the view of the lens. A round hood can potentially vignette, and this may or may not be visible in the viewfinder.

Yes, totally agree, but the lens in question here does not have a bayonet style hood attachment ring. In terms of vignetting, it should be noted that there is less chance of vignetting on the digital 645D or 645Z as the sensor is smaller than the film on the 645, 645N, and 645NII (digital=44mm x 33mm vs. film=56mm x 41.5mm).

[Sandy Hancock]

The el-cheapo third party 58mm collapsible rubber hood I have works fine. The Pentax non-collapsible rubber hood which came with the lens (second hand) is hopeless.

[Jonathan Mac]

I use a collapsable rubber one, which works well, but I have had it fall off once - I had to go back the way I'd come but I eventually found it - so I know what you mean. I haven't found a solution for the problem other than not carrying it in a position where it can unscrew itself fall off without me noticing.

[rollsman4]

Thank you everyone for your help. I just might keep the rubber one that collapses so I don't have any problems with the threads. Thanks again

[bull drinkwater]

the fa-75mm was the first lens I bought, I've never felt I needed a hood on it. I do have hoods for some of my other lenses.

[ivanvernon]

Shooting the 75mm on K-1 with adapter, I got lots of flare any time the lens included some portion of the sky in the frame, or whenever the lens was pointed anywhere vaguely near the sun. As an initial effort, aggressive hooding helped control the flare--I used long hand-fashioned black construction paper hoods, somewhat comical in appearance, no doubt. However, the problem was almost completely solved when I sprayed the inside of the adapter with black matte paint. (Inside of adapter was already painted black, but shiny black.) In addition to that, I also now use a round, straight screw-in hood around 2 inches in length. Flare is now almost completely eliminated.