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09-23-2017, 10:48 PM   #1
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Pentax 6x7 Shutter Curtain not opening.

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Hey! I have a question regarding a Pentax 6x7 Shutter curtain....... It never opens....

Advancing the films seems to work as it should. Mirror operates fine. Placing a bright light source behind the shutter curtain and firing produces no light, as if the curtain is continuous.

Any idea on how it should be, or how to fix it?

Thanks!

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09-23-2017, 11:05 PM   #2
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As a safety feature, both the Pentax 6x7 and the later Pentax 67 cannot be fired if no film is loaded.
"Dry firing" is possible with a special, very thin key that bypasses the winding mechanism pawl.
The shutter shown in the picture appears incomplete in its travel.
09-23-2017, 11:08 PM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by Silent Street Quote
As a safety feature, both the Pentax 6x7 and the later Pentax 67 cannot be fired if no film is loaded.
"Dry firing" is possible with a special, very thin key that bypasses the winding mechanism pawl.
The shutter shown in the picture appears incomplete in its travel.
Hmmm. Its winding and firing perfectly fine. Have followed instructions on dry firing. Pic was taken mid wind to show curtain.

Just got a roll developed and it was completely blank.
09-24-2017, 12:11 AM   #4
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Send it to Eric Hendrickson for service or repair!

09-24-2017, 12:19 AM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by kleggy Quote
Hmmm. Its winding and firing perfectly fine. Have followed instructions on dry firing. Pic was taken mid wind to show curtain.

Just got a roll developed and it was completely blank.
The pic you have shown is stated as being "...taken mid wind to show curtain." So what is visible at complete wind-on? The band/join should not be visible on the shutter after complete wind-on.

This is the 1969-vintage Pentax 6x7?
If so, it may require service/overhaul. I don't know where in Australia the P6x7 / 67 can be serviced; perhaps Nagami Camera Repairs (Google this) can do it — they are down here in Melbourne. Parts for repair must be taken from like-bodies, and this introduces redundancy and unreliability. Weigh up the balance of cost of, versus the value of the camera; sometimes repairs can far exceed the net worth of the camera.
09-24-2017, 12:20 AM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by bjolester Quote
Send it to Eric Hendrickson for service or repair!
Unfortunately living in Australia, the postage to do that and what I paid for the camera, that isn't a feasible option Would would out better to sell this one for parts if need be and buy another one.
09-24-2017, 12:21 AM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by bjolester Quote
Send it to Eric Hendrickson for service or repair!
I considered mentioning that, but he is in Brisbane, here in Australia. The cost of freighting to the USA would not be cheap or timely, but is an open option I suppose.

09-24-2017, 12:26 AM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by Silent Street Quote
The pic you have shown is stated as being "...taken mid wind to show curtain." So what is visible at complete wind-on? The band/join should not be visible on the shutter after complete wind-on.
After a complete wind on the band/join isnt visible and is sitting just past the right hand side of the frame.


QuoteOriginally posted by Silent Street Quote
This is the 1969-vintage Pentax 6x7?
If so, it may require service/overhaul. I don't know where in Australia the P6x7 / 67 can be serviced; perhaps Nagami Camera Repairs (Google this) can do it — they are down here in Melbourne. Parts for repair must be taken from like-bodies, and this introduces redundancy and unreliability. Weigh up the balance of cost of, versus the value of the camera; sometimes repairs can far exceed the net worth of the camera.
Ya exactly....
09-24-2017, 12:27 AM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by kleggy Quote
Unfortunately living in Australia, the postage to do that and what I paid for the camera, that isn't a feasible option Would would out better to sell this one for parts if need be and buy another one.
Yes, I agree fully with that observation. If it is a fault with the shutter, perhaps consider buying a newer version, the Pentax 67 (from 1989) in respectable condition (no signs of rough treatment or exposure). You do know that both versions of these cameras are now old (the 1969 ones vintage, and very much so!) but the later version had some small engineering changes / improvements made to it, along with newer lenses (SMC Pentax 67-designated lenses). There are plenty of these later cameras on eBay.
10-02-2017, 09:16 AM   #10
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Assuming the battery is new and not an alkaline type...
Did you try running the speed dial around and around about four revolutions and then try all speeds from B and 1 sec. all the way to 1000?
If the contacts under are dirty/oxidized, they will not send power to the time board and you will get an instantaneous drop of the second curtain upon pressing the shutter release.
The symptoms sound like a lack of power to the timing circuit.
10-02-2017, 05:27 PM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by MysteryOnion Quote
Assuming the battery is new and not an alkaline type...
Meaning??
An alkaline battery is what I have used for years, and is the only type available anywhich where I look, high and low (and I do not buy batteries from eBay).
10-03-2017, 07:09 AM   #12
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High drain...Just ruling out high drain.
I've stopped using alkaline button cells... you may have good stable versions, but I've had a few gloat up and pop or mysteriously drain down to dead quickly as if not fresh.
This is with many claimed Duracell or Rayovac and etc. Off brands and odd-ball bulk pack from China I stay away from.
I've had good results and do like stacking Silver-Oxides or Lithiums to make my own 6v... more stable discharge...my test batteries.

Last edited by MysteryOnion; 10-03-2017 at 07:18 AM.
10-03-2017, 03:07 PM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by MysteryOnion Quote
High drain...Just ruling out high drain.
I've stopped using alkaline button cells... you may have good stable versions, but I've had a few gloat up and pop or mysteriously drain down to dead quickly as if not fresh.
This is with many claimed Duracell or Rayovac and etc. Off brands and odd-ball bulk pack from China I stay away from.
I've had good results and do like stacking Silver-Oxides or Lithiums to make my own 6v... more stable discharge...my test batteries.
Fair enough. I use 6v Varta batteries. They are all made in China but I do wholly agree that people shoudl stay away from unknown secondary market brands packed to the rafters (I've seen packs on eBay of 100 batteries for under $5!). I haven't changed the battery in the 67 for years now, even with the use of MLU and sometimes a lengthy delay until the shutter is fired.

The use of lithium batteries of (some) interest. Are you referring to "piggybacking" two or more button cells to fit in the 67 battery clasp? Generally, my long experience with lithium batteries in other cameras (EOS 1N, EOS 1V) has been OK until the sharp and sudden dive to the death which leaves everything in limbo. For the last year or so the cameras have been fitted out with AA alkaline batteries. It adds not inconsiderable weight (each power drive booster [10fps] fitted to the camera runs of 8 x AA batteries) but provides stable, proven, long-term reliability.
10-04-2017, 06:09 AM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by Silent Street Quote
Fair enough. I use 6v Varta batteries.
Varta...nice. Hard to find in the Northeast for some reason? In past post about power issues, it is worth noting that the age and quality of the battery can be the cause. I've been to some stores were a brand new in pack was clearly bloated and dead. The expiration date was still good too.

QuoteOriginally posted by Silent Street Quote
The use of lithium batteries of (some) interest. Are you referring to "piggybacking"
It is a simple paper and metal paper rivet holder I built and have left instructions on how here and there in these formums. Simply a pair of CR1/3n and a spacer. I get about 30 rolls and if the voltage goes to below 5.1v I'll change it out. Carry a spare set always.
10-04-2017, 05:00 PM   #15
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QuoteOriginally posted by MysteryOnion Quote
Varta...nice.
Nice they are, but Varta long, long time ago ceased to be made in Germany (we can all remember the time when they cost much more then than they do now!).
They are all made in China (some in Malaysia). But so far I have nothing to report by way of problems at any time so I'm happy. I carry two spares in my kit (along with Mars Bars) on the off-chance I slip-up with Pentaximus and find myself high and dry with no power.
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