[MarkJerling]

Although my Pentax 67 is fitted with the TTL prism, I can do much, much better than its efforts armed with a multispot meter, as do many others. Occasionally though I may have only seconds to get a shot and that is when I will put faith -- blind or no, in the TTL prism and just "get the shot anyway!". Really, arming yourself with a separate hand-held meter, and skilling up in its use and application (incident/spot/multispot/duplex... lots and lots of variations) will dramatically expand your ability to deal with challenging and awkward conditions which a TTL meter may not really be faithful to.

The meter coupling chain breakage in the Pentax 6x7 and 67 camera, when it does occur and usually to new users unbeknownst to them as a risk, is a real Achilles Heel which causes more gripes and grief than anything else. Just as a "sticky", the procedure for safe removal and replacement is--

The lens can be removed and re-mounted freely any time a TTL prism is seated, however, if the TTL prism is removed:
Remove the lens;
Remount the TTL prism, then--
Remount the lens.


I do not think much of phone light meters and certainly would not use one, nor recommend such a thing for e.g. critical slide exposure. For the price of an iPhone X or Samsung Galaxy S9 (neck-to-neck, around AUD$1400 here), you could buy a mongrel light meter like the Sekonic L758D-R!

All of my exhibition work is shot on E6 (Fuji Velvia 50 or Provia 100F). It is lab-processed with a 3-hour turn-around.
A roll of 2005 film will be useable (I have a brick of April 2004 expired E100VS, the forerunner to Kodak's modernised E6 film, E100G and GS, but it will have lost some speed, even under refrigeration, so give it a whirl and bracket the ISO up and down a stop or two (if negative film) or 0.3 steps up and down for slide film.

Would you like to make a new thread with that important advice, and I'll sticky it for you. Just PM me the link to your new thread please.

[abruzzi]

Use Vuescan to run the scanner. It has profiles for color negative films that will filter out the orange mask automatically.

Rick “who uses Vuescan to run his Nikon 9000 film scanner” Denney

Yeah, pretty much. Most film scanners have software that automatically has those adjustments. I’m sure there would be a not too difficult way to program a preset in whatever image editing app to do the same thing. This page says to set the white point in photoshop in the orange area outside the frame, then do an invert, but my scanning rarely picks up the area outside the frame.

Converting Color Film Negative to Positive Using Photoshop by Removing the Orange Cast by Jeffrey Sward

[tuco]

Use Vuescan to run the scanner. It has profiles for color negative films that will filter out the orange mask automatically.

Rick “who uses Vuescan to run his Nikon 9000 film scanner” Denney

Do you know where to find modern color film profiles for VueScan? The ones on my list are pretty much films that don't exist anymore.

[rdenney]

Do you know where to find modern color film profiles for VueScan? The ones on my list are pretty much films that don't exist anymore.

No, I don’t. I’ve just used something of similar formulation, and experiment a bit. But I have zero expectations of the color being exactly where I want it after scanning, so I just use something that gives me a reasonable starting point.

Rick “whose freezer stock is all Ektar 100” Denney

[asahijock]

The app for the phone is interesting.

How many of you develop your own film?

Do you shoot mostly b&W, color negatives or slides?

I'm considering doing my own developing. I've got probably 20 rolls of film that has been in the refrigerator since 2005 just sitting there since moving to digital photography. Sold my Hassy a few years back.

It sounds as if you want to be a hybrid user( develop film but then scan as opposed darkroom printing). B&W developing requires very little equipment and you can make adjustments for temperature changes whereas C41 colour film really requires that you have the means of holding the temperature of the developer at a constant 100F or 38.8 C

For B&W you'll need a lightproof room( wait until dark then a cupboard under the stairs or similar is fine) or a changing bag to load the film - once loaded the rest is done in normal light. A tank and reel and developer plus fixer. Access to water is also needed and the kitchen is as good a place as any to do the processing.

Colour is no more difficult., except for the need for 100F/38.8C but I'd try B&W initially.

Given that this site is predominantly digital, it may not be the best for analogue advice on processing. I'd do 2 things

1. Buy a book on B&W processing
2. Join the likes of Photrio which has a lot of analogue users who collectively have a lot of knowledge on film processing

You will save a fortune in even the medium term in processing costs and have complete control.

Best of luck

asahijock

[Silent Street]

Given that this site is predominantly digital, it may not be the best for analogue advice on processing. I'd do 2 things

There is a depth and breadth of active professional and amateur photographers on Pentaxforums.com that can provide a lot of advice on analogue matters. It is also the case on Photrio, although it is often a challenge to find which advice is best, correct or right for any given situation with so many opinions, claims and counter-claims!