[rjm007]

I just happened to be in the only local camera store with second hand kit, actually the only local camera store. Made the mistake of asking them if they had any 645 bodies in. Yes we do sir. The original (it's so 80s") 645 body , 120 back and the A 75mm lens. $400.

Despite my credit card quivering like a crazy thing I did think it probably best to ask a few questions in here first.

1) Anything I should specifically look out for in terms of the camera actually working.
2) Things that might be faulty that i might not notice coming from 35mm film / MILC
3) Does that price sound within the ball park ?

First impressions were that it was actually quite a "handleable" camera. I'd expected it to be I dunno - more bulky and hard to hold. The VF wasn't as gloomy as some reviewers had suggested and I was inside using it. Actually I rather liked the optical VF - realise now how much I miss one cf. an EVF. Oh and the mirror slap. People aren't going to miss that.

[IgorZ]

P645 is great. I am using it way more than my LX...

[kaseki]

I just happened to be in the only local camera store with second hand kit, actually the only local camera store. Made the mistake of asking them if they had any 645 bodies in. Yes we do sir. The original (it's so 80s") 645 body , 120 back and the A 75mm lens. $400.

Despite my credit card quivering like a crazy thing I did think it probably best to ask a few questions in here first.

1) Anything I should specifically look out for in terms of the camera actually working.
2) Things that might be faulty that i might not notice coming from 35mm film / MILC
3) Does that price sound within the ball park ?

First impressions were that it was actually quite a "handleable" camera. I'd expected it to be I dunno - more bulky and hard to hold. The VF wasn't as gloomy as some reviewers had suggested and I was inside using it. Actually I rather liked the optical VF - realise now how much I miss one cf. an EVF. Oh and the mirror slap. People aren't going to miss that.

It is quite "handleable," like a 35mm on steroids. However, because the camera components are larger, you may find that most camera bags are a better fit for 35mm, and generally nowadays 35mm DLSR. So how a candidate bag can be reconfigured will be worth considering when you find you want to take the camera somewhere.

For pricing, observe similar units on eBay. In my experience, in addition to NA sellers, those in Japan with high scores ship excellent condition lenses and miscellaneous Pentax 645 devices. The postal system set up between Japan and the USA leads to very quick delivery.

Read Ken Rockwell's review (www.kenrockwell.com) to gain some insight of the differences between the 645, 645N, and 645NII film camera bodies. There are reviews on this site also. Consider the merit of any Pentax improvements vs. cost relationships among the bodies.

Delve into the lens reviews here to determine which are best for your purposes.

So far I haven't had any problems, so I can't advise on what to look out for. More experienced users here may be able to fill in this aspect. Bodies with low exterior wear may just have low interior wear. Of course, always check the battery compartment for signs of corrosion.

[Alex645]

1) Anything I should specifically look out for in terms of the camera actually working.
2) Things that might be faulty that i might not notice coming from 35mm film / MILC
3) Does that price sound within the ball park ?

Oh and the mirror slap. People aren't going to miss that.

1) The achilles heal is the battery holder. Make sure it is not corroded and that the plastic is not cracked. Also, do they offer a warranty? I'd shoot on roll of 120 film and get it developed to make sure the motor advance gears are not stripped. It's not "common" but those have been the two things that seem to be the issues I've seen over 30 years of life with a 645.

2) Not really. Use the depth-of-field preview to make sure the aperture stops down as it should.

3) Depends on the condition, but in excellent condition that would be a fair price.

And yes, that mirror slap? Own it, love it, embrace it.

[rjm007]

Thanks guys - yeh the battery corrosion issue seems to come up a lot online. Especially as a replacement part seems to be in short supply. Did wonder about getting one from Japan but not sure how much extra I'd be paying in duty and charges and they're mostly selling bodies so the price diff doesn't seem that great once you factor in a lens.

[kaseki]

Thanks guys - yeh the battery corrosion issue seems to come up a lot online. Especially as a replacement part seems to be in short supply. Did wonder about getting one from Japan but not sure how much extra I'd be paying in duty and charges and they're mostly selling bodies so the price diff doesn't seem that great once you factor in a lens.

Often the mailing cost is embedded in the price; otherwise, the shipping price is specified on eBay. While the immense tome that is the US trade customs duty list may be nearly impenetrable for anyone who is not an expert., it seems that the highest relevant duty for cameras and optics is 2.5%, and I've never had to pay it. Used stuff seems to not have a duty if shipped in small quantities, or Customs doesn't think cost of collection is worth the tiny fee obtained.

The US no longer has a consumer camera or camera lens manufacturing base, so protecting it with a tariff is not necessary. The desirability of funding the Federal Government with tariffs, as in the early 19th century, could be argued, but seems to be out of fashion. Attacking the US Southern states with huge import duties, as in the mid 19th century, proved to be counterproductive when all the smoke settled. So please don't worry about duties on camera parts from Japan.

Similarly, I haven't had to pay any tariffs on the minimal camera related items I've had shipped from the PRC, mainly cables for Quantum Batteries, but that could change during our trade war.

So, I would say that buying locally, particularly if with some return guarantee, is best if prices are comparable, but the risk for long distance acquisition where economical is not high.

[rjm007]

I've decided that if I'm going to do it I might as well go for it. In my case I think I'll get a 645N from Japan. It's my birthday this month. I'm worth it :-) Question is - which roll of film should I reach for first . Minded to try Ilford b&w first as that was my first love as a young photographer - probably all I could afford too :-)

There seems to be an issue with the battery contacts and availability of the battery module of the 645 - is it the same concern with the 645N ?

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Last edited by rjm007; 10-01-2018 at 11:18 AM.

[Alex645]

Question is - why roll of film should I reach for first . Minded to try Ilford b&w first as that was my first love as a young photographer - probably all I could afford too :-)

There seems to be an issue with the battery contacts and availability of the battery module of the 645 - is it the same concern with the 645N ?

Film? Normally I would opt for either Ilford HP5+ or Kodak Tri-X for that traditional look, but with a new camera, I think it's more telling to use a lower ISO to better see any anomalies with the exposures due to idiosyncracies of the meter, shutter, or aperture. Hard to beat the price on Arista EDU Ultra 100 or for a bit more the ultra fine Ilford Pan F 50.

I find Ilford XP2+ hard to beat for exposure latitude and beautiful scan quality if you don't mind sending it to a lab for C41 processing.

I have not had the same battery holder problem with my 645N that I have had with my 645, but my 645 is at least 13 years older than the N, so perhaps age is the main benefit on the N battery holder.

[torashi]

I have this itch, too. 645N for me, because of the manual controls.

[johnha]

Medium format film is very rewarding, however you will find your bag(s) aren't big enough (or the wrong shape) and while you thought you could make do with one or two lenses, you'll probably realise you really need more to get the best out of the experience. Your tripod & head may not be strong enough (at least with a 645 you don't need an $$$ L bracket). Handholding is not a problem unless you're in dim conditions or wanting to use longer exposures - they were built/styled to be handheld.

I shot Mamiya 645 back in the day (the interchangeable backs seemed important then), but now I wish I'd gone for Pentax from the start. A motorised 645 is responsive, compact, easy to handle and can shoot anything apart from 'machine-gunning' sports stuff.

[mattb123]

Careful, it's a slippery slope!
I have an original 645 and it's a good solid camera. I think I paid $500 for the body and the A 75mm three or four years ago which was maybe a little high but it's a nice clean copy.
Great camera and easy to use.
The only slightly disappointing feature when I got it was the +/- exposure compensation only goes in full stops. But in practical terms it hasn't mattered much.

[rjm007]

Film? Normally I would opt for either Ilford HP5+ or Kodak Tri-X for that traditional look, but with a new camera, I think it's more telling to use a lower ISO to better see any anomalies with the exposures due to idiosyncracies of the meter, shutter, or aperture. Hard to beat the price on Arista EDU Ultra 100 or for a bit more the ultra fine Ilford Pan F 50.

I find Ilford XP2+ hard to beat for exposure latitude and beautiful scan quality if you don't mind sending it to a lab for C41 processing.

Yeh - my primary interest is black and white and I've always been a sucker for low ISO so the Pan F 50 is in my sights - time will tell if it's it's just too slow. I have the benefit of living in California where the weather does help. Having grown up and lived most of my life in the UK 50 ISO would be a challenge much of the time.

[Alex645]

the Pan F 50 is in my sights - time will tell if it's it's just too slow.

I remember shooting a lot of Kodachrome 25 and 64 ISO back in the day when 400 ISO was considered "fast". Although now, I can't imagine not having the option of shooting digital at least 1600 ISO, I still consider that more of a convenience than a necessity. (Sorry for the double negative there, but that's what happens when you reminisce about reversal film)

.....and nothing beats the ultra fine grain and resolution of Pan F. It will also really show you the slightest exposure deviations.

PS. Tech Pan R.I.P.

[drmoss_ca]

I have a 645N and a 645NII. I prefer the controls on the original N, but wanted a backup if it ever dies, hence the NII. Lovely cameras, and decent lenses too. I was lucky enough to get my lenses before the digital 645s came along and drove up prices. As for your first film, I'll climb back on my hobby horse and suggest XP2 Super, which you can expose at 25-1600, and develop accordingly in HC-110. For colour, there seems to be sort of benign interaction between the Pentax glass and FujiPro 400H - it always turns out very nicely.

[Moe49]

I have this itch (for a 645)

Me too, for a few years now.
I just scratched it yesterday

I stumbled across a Pentax 645NII, FA 45-85mm & FA 80-160mm bundle in Japan, at a BIN price not to be ignored.
Combined with the 6% Ebay Bucks offer that day, and free shipping, I could no longer resist.

I also purchased a 645 FA 120mm Macro to slide under the lens hood I already owned (from a failed experiment with FA*85mm hood alternatives).
Also purchased under the 6% Ebay Bucks offer.

And 5 rolls of Ektar 120 film for good measure.

edit 11/6/2108
The Camera and three lenses showed up yesterday. All look near mint
Still waiting for the film to arrive.