[nuke8401]

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Rarely do I take a chance like this, but I purchased a 6x7 off ebay advertised NIB and it truly is like new. I don't think a single roll of film has been through it since the battery was in the original package, Maxell dated 83-06.
It needs light seals (sticky) and the first shutter actuation stuck but freed itself? I have shot 3 frames on a test roll of Ektar that I plan to finish today and get developed.
It came with a NIB digital spotmeter. I loaded the 86-06 Maxell battery in it and it works!
What is in the kit:
Asahi Pentax With Mirror Up Device 6x7 Body Super SLR!
Asahi Pentax Takumar Lens 300mm F4
Asahi Pentax Takumar Lens Macro 135mm (box has slight dent on upper corner)
Asahi Pentax Takumar Super Multi Coated Lens 105mm F2.4
Asahi Pentax Super Multi Coated Lens 65mm F2.8 (I think this is a misprint its a 165mm)
Asahi Pentax SMC 55mm F4 Lens
Asahi Pentax Wood Grip
Pentax Digital Spotmeter
Asahi Pentax TTL Penta Prism Finder
2 ea. Vivitar UV Haze 67mm Filter
1 ea. Hoya UV 77.0 Filter

This is the ebay listing.
If I paid too much, don't tell me!
Asahi Pentax 67 55/105/135 Macro/165/300mm Lens Spotmeter Prism Finder Grip NIB! | eBay

[BigMackCam]

That looks like a beautiful and very complete kit. Congratulations!

Given the age of the camera and the fact that you've already identified sticky light seals, I would be sending it to someone for a complete service before use. At 30+ years old, lubricants will have dried out, and it would be much kinder to the camera to have everything cleaned and re-lubricated.

I don't know whether you paid too much or got a bargain, but needless to say a complete setup where everything is NiB (or appears to be so) is a pretty rare find. On that basis, it's worth a premium.

[tuco]

Congrats on your new gear.

One thing to know about 6x7 lenses is there are many different generations of them. Some have had their optics changed for the better. Of course when a lens says Takumar on it you know it's a different generation than one that says "SMC" on it. But among the SMC lenses they are branded "6x7" and "67". 67 is the latest generation. For example, a SMC 6x7 55mm f4 lens is not the same as a SMC 67 55mm f4 lens. They have different optical formulas and housing differences. Similarly with the 200mm. Enjoy your new gear.

[rjm007]

That's quite the "starter package" !

[nuke8401]

That looks like a beautiful and very complete kit. Congratulations!

Given the age of the camera and the fact that you've already identified sticky light seals, I would be sending it to someone for a complete service before use. At 30+ years old, lubricants will have dried out, and it would be much kinder to the camera to have everything cleaned and re-lubricated.

I don't know whether you paid too much or got a bargain, but needless to say a complete setup where everything is NiB (or appears to be so) is a pretty rare find. On that basis, it's worth a premium.

I think your right.
Maybe this one roll of film and then off to "Eric"?
I think that he is one of the most recommended repair guys here.
I just had to put a roll through it!

[gofour3]

Great find, don't find NIB 6x7 kits very often.

Phil.

[Silent Street]

That is a surprisingly big -- and comprehensive! -- find. My 67 kit also came from an Estate sale (San Diego).

The most valuable item in the kit though is not the camera, but the spot meter.
Once you get out of the range of the camera's rudimentary TTL meter (down to 1 second), you're on your own with Bulb, and a meter -- particularly a spot/multispot meter, is absolutely indispensible. Quite a bit of a learning curve will be involved in understanding how it effects the image and provides for an exposure better than the camera can manage (when used proficiently).

The lenses are comprehensive, but of considerable vintage over modern-day counterparts which replaced them (optical reconfigurations [some], engineering, size, materials, cosmetics and the 1990-version releases designated SMC Pentax 67...)

For peace of mind I would send the camera in (e.g. Eric H, of pentaxs.com) for a thorough look-over (TTL meter too), especially if it has not seen any use at all for such a long, long time (+30 years!?) and particularly with the mention of a possibly sticky shutter curtain (possible debridement of the binding tape that was commonly used on the 1969-era Pentax 6x7 cameras).

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Last edited by Silent Street; 11-01-2018 at 03:11 PM.

[nuke8401]

I shot the remaining 8 shots tonight with no issues.
I did make my first nubi mistake;
The bad, I pushed the Mirror lock button without knowing I couldn't see through the viewfinder, so I wasted a frame.
The good, I then realized the shutter didn't stick the first time I fired it but that I think I hit the mirror up button as it acted the exact same.
The shutter is awesome and maybe louder than my car door!
I know some of the lenses are older but they are like new. They all came in the protective cases, in sealed plastic bags with desiccant that was still dry.
And yes the Spot-meter is brand new, came in its vinyl pouch, inside a seal plastic bag with desiccant. These seem to be selling for >$400 on KEH.
It will take me some time to learn the spotmeter and how to meter for best overall exposure, learn film "latitude"? Not sure if that is the correct term for range of exposure?
From the little I know, I think the goal is to meter the bright and dark areas and pick an exposure that will result in some contrast in both areas instead of having whiteout or blackout areas?
I thought I read the goals were different for B&W and color?
Anyway,
I am thrilled about this kit!!!
I barely got it as my max bid was just over the winning bid.
Now to send off the first roll for developing!
I know I need to send it to Eric for CLA and seals but I just want to shoot some photographs!!!

[BigMackCam]

I know I need to send it to Eric for CLA and seals but I just want to shoot some photographs!!!

Ha ha

Of course... but think of it like a classic car that has sat unused for many years. You could drive it "as is" and maybe get 1000 miles out of it before it develops serious problems because of lubricants and any age-related issues... Or you could resist the temptation to drive it, get it properly serviced, and get 30,000 miles out of it without any major issues. It's a choice, but given what you've paid for the kit, you probably ought to protect your investment

[nuke8401]

Ha ha

Of course... but think of it like a classic car that has sat unused for many years. You could drive it "as is" and maybe get 1000 miles out of it before it develops serious problems because of lubricants and any age-related issues... Or you could resist the temptation to drive it, get it properly serviced, and get 30,000 miles out of it without any major issues. It's a choice, but given what you've paid for the kit, you probably ought to protect your investment

I know you are right!

[Silent Street]

[...]
It will take me some time to learn the spotmeter and how to meter for best overall exposure, learn film "latitude"? Not sure if that is the correct term for range of exposure?
[...]

Your exposure latitude will be much narrower with slide film than it will be with the more generous provision of negative film, and slide film is what I would first be running through the camera to check up on the accuracy of the camera's own TTL meter. Gross meter errors will be quite obvious with slide film, but can pass unnoticed with neg.

All photographers have their own modus operandi for spot/multispot meters.
The basic method to apply a "sweep" of a spot meter over the scene, assuming it allows cumulative readings and an averaged total, is to "tag" high (but not exceptionally bright) tones, low (but not pure black) and a single, reference point mid-tone (e.g. from a grey card or a recognised tone within the scene that approximates that value), then average all for the final exposure that is set on the camera (but things will be tricky in low light with reciprocity to be factored in, and filter factors (e.g. polarisers, red filters, yellow filters) must also be taken into account with a hand-held meter). A basic sweep of a scene in different circumstances with a running written record of the procedure and settings, will be invaluable as a progressive learning experience. Can't really emphasise that enough in this modern age where people no longer care much about the settings the camera was on when a photograph was made!

[nuke8401]

Your exposure latitude will be much narrower with slide film than it will be with the more generous provision of negative film, and slide film is what I would first be running through the camera to check up on the accuracy of the camera's own TTL meter. Gross meter errors will be quite obvious with slide film, but can pass unnoticed with neg.

All photographers have their own modus operandi for spot/multispot meters.
The basic method to apply a "sweep" of a spot meter over the scene, assuming it allows cumulative readings and an averaged total, is to "tag" high (but not exceptionally bright) tones, low (but not pure black) and a single, reference point mid-tone (e.g. from a grey card or a recognized tone within the scene that approximates that value), then average all for the final exposure that is set on the camera (but things will be tricky in low light with reciprocity to be factored in, and filter factors (e.g. polarisers, red filters, yellow filters) must also be taken into account with a hand-held meter). A basic sweep of a scene in different circumstances with a running written record of the procedure and settings, will be invaluable as a progressive learning experience. Can't really emphasise that enough in this modern age where people no longer care much about the settings the camera was on when a photograph was made!

Thank you for this starter information.
Reciprocity=Ugh!
My Grandfather introduced me to photography when I was 9 using a 35mm Leicaflex SL.
It has TTL metering and I am almost still competent using it today LOL (It has a roll of Portra 400 in it right now set at ASA 200 for a little more Saturation).
I have always enjoyed the challenge of controlling DOF and zone focus (not sure that's the official term). My Granddad called it "Newspaper Photographer" focusing. F8 or better and pick a middle distance you expect to shoot.
I have no real experience using an off camera light meter and nailing the exposure but am looking forward to learning.
Thanks again for the information!

[Silent Street]

[...]My Granddad called it "Newspaper Photographer" focusing. F8 or better and pick a middle distance you expect to shoot.
[...]

Gran'pa nuke was probably making a cryptic reference to hyperfocal focusing (at f5.6 to f8, typically), still very useful today for those 'switched on' in the genre of shoot-from-the-hip street photography. I use it with my SMC-P 45mm f4 lens set to f8; all that is needed then is to be there!

[desertscape]

You got quite a deal in that kit considering that it looks new. It would have cost at least $3200 when it was produced. The Leicaflex SL was a good learning experience for using the 6x7 now. I have used the SL and SL2 quite a bit. They are spot metered but your 6x7 is not, so that must be considered when shooting. When you use the TTL meter, make sure you use a gray card as that meter is easily fooled by light or dark areas within the frame. Of your lenses, the only one that is not great is the 300 Takumar. It does not have a tripod mount but badly needed it. If you shoot it hand held, not a problem. BTW, the body serial number can be used to determine the age of your camera.

[nuke8401]

I played with the Digital Spotmeter today after reading the manual.
I compared it to everything I had from a canon 50d, two Pentax Super MEs, Liecaflex SL, Canon A2E and the 67.
All were within 1/3 stop of the Spotmeter except the Leica was tracking +2/3 stop.
The 67 was -1/3 stop off.
My test target was a medium beige interior wall which I varied the light on.
I am happy with 1/3 stop on everything.
I adjusted the Leica light meter before when changing from a Mercury battery and I might give it a touch up be I have never noticed a problem with exposure with it. I generally either shoot Portra 400 or Ektar 100 with the Leica so I will probably leave it alone.
I touched base with Eric and he said see what the first roll of film looks like, if OK keep shooting.
He said there was no lubricant in the camera to dry up.
I have a light seal kit coming and if the first roll is OK I guess I will just keep using it after replacing the seals.
Eric said he could to light seals and check timing if I wanted him too. Stand up guy.

---------- Post added 11-04-18 at 06:02 PM ----------

You got quite a deal in that kit considering that it looks new. It would have cost at least $3200 when it was produced. The Leicaflex SL was a good learning experience for using the 6x7 now. I have used the SL and SL2 quite a bit. They are spot metered but your 6x7 is not, so that must be considered when shooting. When you use the TTL meter, make sure you use a gray card as that meter is easily fooled by light or dark areas within the frame. Of your lenses, the only one that is not great is the 300 Takumar. It does not have a tripod mount but badly needed it. If you shoot it hand held, not a problem. BTW, the body serial number can be used to determine the age of your camera.

I have read that about the 300.

Have to figure out what the manual auto switch on the lenses does?
I have the original manuals for everything but didn't see a detailed explanation except it control the diaphragm?
The manual for the camera has about a 1/4" binder that doesn't look like it ever was open much less folded flat.

I would be shocked if it had a roll of film run through it.
I am super happy with this kit.