[gofour3]

The seller of the non-working TTL version sent this pic when I asked what ground glass was in the body. Looking closer, I can't see a chain. Is this what it looks like when the chain is broken, hence why TTL does not work? If so, I do have a very capable local repair shop that I trust, but any idea what I might expect a chain repair to cost, if that's even possible?

Yep it looks like there is no chain period, it would be in the slot just above the lens mount. That would explain why the TTL metered prism does not work!

https://ligynnek.wordpress.com/2016/03/06/pentax-67-things-bound-to-wear-out/

Phil.

[Silent Street]

The TTL meter coupling chain can be repaired, commonly with tiger-tail microfilament beading wire — an enormously strong and extremely flexible substitute for the flimsy OEM chain.

Servicing the chain requires disassembly of the lens mount flange, removal of the old chain and any remnants if it has broken more than once, and threading and securing of the new wire around the guides (not chain). You would need to be handy with beading wire and crimping, and confident working with small fiddly parts. Once threaded, the chain is wound to tension and a hook attached to the coupling pin — the tiny stub visible at the extreme right of the chain runner on the camera in the pic. After assembly, the lens mount will require precise calibration for focus at three points on the focusing screen. If this is not done, precise focus will be difficult to achieve.

Observe the requirement that if you remove the TTL prism while the lens is on — remove the lens, re-mount the TTL prism and finally re-mount the lens. This method releases the chain from tension that causes breakage. Something that has obviously happened with the camera in the pic.

• PIC: an enlarged view of tiger-tail beading wire.

[nickelphoto]

I would DEFINITELY have my local repair shop do that. My anxiety levels would be through the roof.

Plot thickens however... I reached back out to the seller for a closer chain photo and he delivered. Appears to have just been a poor angle before, but the chain is there so maybe it's just fried electronics in the prism? I'm really thinking this might be the one I pull the trigger on. Unfortunately no-returns, but good recent feedback... Hoping I'm not just letting my emotions drive this decision, but I'm sure I'm well beyond that at this point!

[gofour3]

I would DEFINITELY have my local repair shop do that. My anxiety levels would be through the roof.

Plot thickens however... I reached back out to the seller for a closer chain photo and he delivered. Appears to have just been a poor angle before, but the chain is there so maybe it's just fried electronics in the prism? I'm really thinking this might be the one I pull the trigger on. Unfortunately no-returns, but good recent feedback... Hoping I'm not just letting my emotions drive this decision, but I'm sure I'm well beyond that at this point!

Looks like the chain is OK then. If the TTL meter still does work it many be one like mine that only meters if the lens lever is on "MAN". Dirty contacts could also be the issue.
These are known issues with the TTL metered prism.

Phil.

[nickelphoto]

Trigger pulled! Now to find a clean, stain free copy of the 105mm. I can't thank you all enough for your guidance through this!

Also, I'm sure it's all a matter of preference, but this body I bought doesn't come with the wood handle. I would venture that 80% of my time with this camera will be for portraits. Is there a consensus on the handle being essential with this camera? I have humongous hands if that is a factor...

[gofour3]

Also, I'm sure it's all a matter of preference, but this body I bought doesn't come with the wood handle. I would venture that 80% of my time with this camera will be for portraits. Is there a consensus on the handle being essential with this camera? I have humongous hands if that is a factor...

It's a personal preference for sure. I have the wooden grip on all my three 6x7/67/67ii bodies, as well as the OEM strap. When I'm walking I find the wooden grip useful for resting the camera on my shoulder.

Phil.

[RICHARD L.]

Hello,

Check on eBay (Japan mostly) to find a used P67 105 mm f/2.4.

Newer "late 67" (rubber covered focusing grip) lenses sell for 800 US$ ++. Older 6X7 models (metal focusing grip) go for 300 to 500 US$.

Normally these are tough, durable lenses. Check for "haze, fungus and mechanical condition". Japan sellers are reputable providers.

Regards

---

Last edited by RICHARD L.; 01-23-2021 at 06:20 AM.

[Silent Street]

Also, I'm sure it's all a matter of preference, but this body I bought doesn't come with the wood handle. I would venture that 80% of my time with this camera will be for portraits. Is there a consensus on the handle being essential with this camera? I have humongous hands if that is a factor...

Handles are an optional trinket. And I'm the shameless oddball here. 100% of the time my 67 is tripod-mounted, always has been, and this technique is also reflected down through the decades of photography I have been involved in; the comparison may be wild, but it is still valid looked at obliquely: would you shoot a large format camera handheld, hmm?

Doubtless a handle is useful in repetitive studio shooting applications where one camera, having exhausted its roll of film, is quickly hauled overhead to an assistant and a freshly-loaded replacement handed back. Otherwise, it's an encumbrance packing the camera away, and does add weight. The simple takeaway is that personal preferences and experience will be your best guide, not what other people actually find useful.

---------- Post added 22nd Jan 2021 at 10:14 AM ----------

Japan sellers are reputable providers.

Yes and no. They do try, indeed. But they are let down, quite badly, by the language barrier. It is not easy to transliteralise Japanese to English or English to Japanese. It is known that descriptions of just about anything, and particularly photographic equipment, are "bulk-rolled" and shared amongst a vast cohort of sellers, a sort of "one size fits all" that does not really reflect the true picture. It helps if you can write Japanese, as my niece can. Once they get correspondence in their language, you'd be very, very surprised how well they go with communication and helpfulness.

[RICHARD L.]

Most of the time Japanese sellers post a series of pictures of the items they offer, so simply check the pictures thoroughly. I must have purchased 20 Pentax items (K, 645 and 67 lenses) in the last 2 years and never was I disappointed or taken advantage of.


Regards

[nickelphoto]

Most of the time Japanese sellers post a series of pictures of the items they offer, so simply check the pictures thoroughly. I must have purchased 20 Pentax items (K, 645 and 67 lenses) in the last 2 years and never was I disappointed or taken advantage of.

I've bought a few from Japan myself (non-Pentax) and have not been disappointed. That being said, the ones I was buying were not prone to a unique Thorium staining, so I feel I need to message every potential candidate and ask them specifically about yellow stains. I'm looking to go for the Mid 80's version in the ~$500 range.

[desertscape]

Don't underestimate the utility of the 150 Takumar f/2.8 for portraits. It is very affordable now. The 165 f/2.8 is also a contender against the expensive 105.

[tuco]

Trigger pulled! ... I would venture that 80% of my time with this camera will be for portraits. Is there a consensus on the handle being essential with this camera? I have humongous hands if that is a factor...

Congrats on the new gear. Handhold portraits? No need for the wooden grip on a tripod of course. I've done portraits with my Pentax 67. The only time I have ever used the wooden grip is for handhold shots on a sailboat during a race or other events where I needed an arm free to hang on to things while I move around. But of course your milage may vary.

[nickelphoto]

Handhold portraits? No need for the wooden grip on a tripod of course.

Likely handheld mostly. I actually just made an offer on the latest model SMC 105, and hope to do outdoor environmental portraits for now until the pandemic goes away and I can get closer indoor with window light. Going to give it a go without grips to start and will see how I fare.

Don't underestimate the utility of the 150 Takumar f/2.8 for portraits. It is very affordable now. The 165 f/2.8 is also a contender against the expensive 105

I think I'll be aiming for two more lenses eventually to round out my kit. A 165 f/4 LS for studio and probably the 45 f/4 for when I'm crawling around abandoned buildings somewhere and need that wide look. I have been absolutely amazed however at the price of the 200 and 300 f/4's. Some are well under $100. Is the image quality not there on these lenses or something?

[tuco]

The optics on the 67 generation of the 200/4 lens was updated from the previous 6x7 generation of that lens. So when shopping pay attention to which version you are looking at. The optics were improved on the 67 generation but the lens housing was not. The 67 200/4 lens housing is much longer than it needs to be, IMHO, creating a long lens. It great not to need a lens hood because the front element is so far recessed into the housing but not so good when you put a filter on nullifying the inherent 'builtin' lens hood. The 67 200/4 is a really sharp lens.

The 67 (and 6x7 gen - optics unchanged) 300/4 is a big lens cantilevered off the camera body and is really prone to vibration. It is not a very popular lens and might account for the low price you will see for that. The M* 300 EDIF lens, on the other hand, is very good lens with a tripod mount built on the lens where the camera body can also be supported by a second tripod or monopod when using slower shutter speeds. Even with mirror lockup, there is still inertia in the shutter curtain when it snaps open on a Pentax 6x7.

[RICHARD L.]

The late model P67 200 mm f/4 is a "more than excellent" short telephoto lens. I started using it on my digital 645Z with great success. It's true it sells for peanuts but it's a great lens ! A well-kept secret.

P67 200 mm f/4

P67 200 mm f/4


On the other hand, the older model P67 300 mm f/4 is heavy and not very easy to use, having no tripod mount. It sells for ridiculous prices because no one wants them. The newer M* 300 mm f/4 is stellar but costs at least 1000 US$.

Regards