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12-27-2008, 04:08 PM   #1
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6x7 lens questions

I just purchased an un metered 6x7 (I plan on getting a metered prism) I have wanted one of these for the longest time! I have never used MF before, and I'm just curious about lenses. I think It will mostly get used for portraits, maybe occasional landscape work. for anyone who does or has used MF cameras particularly the 6x7 what would you suggest for a good all around lens? I do not want to have more than one or two (at least for the time being) so I want a good lens that can pull a little double duty, though im putting priority on portraits. im also curious as to the different lens series. I assume the Takumars will be what I expect from the 35mm lenses, so should I be pursuing a Takumar or a newer lens? and what limitations if any will I ener using a newer 67 lens on my body? thanks for any help, as I really need it.

12-27-2008, 07:55 PM   #2
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If you want a good all rounder for that camera, look at the 105/2.5. It's very sharp and as fast as it gets on the 6x7, will do OK for portraits (you will want to crop a bit), and will be fine for a lot of outdoor work as well.
If you really want a nice "portrait lens", I don't think you can beat the 165/2.8, with the 165/4LS not far behind.
I also had very good results from the 135/4 Macro lens. It did really well as a long normal, a macro (though only 1:2 on it's own) and surprisingly, it did well as a portrait lens, although I did buy a set of Soft F/X for this.
The old Takumars are just fine, the newer SMC lenses are better, but I don't know if they are better by an important enough amount or not.
12-27-2008, 08:28 PM   #3
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Congratulations! Welcome to a new world. This should be a fun ride for you. Even if you do lots of black and white (seems I've seen some of your black and white stuff posted?) make sure you shoot a roll of transparency film right away, just to see the images with the naked eye and hopefully through a loupe too. Viewing negatives just doesn't have the same "wow" factor--at least not through my eyes.



Wheatfield's advice is dead-on, though I was only thinking as deep as the first two options--105/2.5 and 165/2.8. The fashion guys do killer work with the 105. I have a "portrait guy" friend who loves the 165. Best news is both lenses are currently selling very inexpensively...but don't let the prices fool you. These two are inexpensive but don't shoot that way. Also, if you are going to want to play with flash much, the 165 LS allows much more latitude in shutter speeds with flash...but I'm flash ignorant so maybe just use this advice as an excuse to research a little bit regarding flash and leaf shutter lenses on the 67 body.
12-27-2008, 10:06 PM   #4
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séamuis, That is great to hear!. I bought a 645 kit a while back but have not used it yet. I have been looking into it more the past few days and one thing to keep in mind that was a help to me is this. To get the equivalent field of view of a 35mm, you need to subtract 1.5 .. 75mm = 50mm or so I have read.

12-27-2008, 10:21 PM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by jgredline Quote
To get the equivalent field of view of a 35mm, you need to subtract 1.5 .. 75mm = 50mm or so I have read.
I'll note this down as well
12-27-2008, 10:37 PM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by jgredline Quote
séamuis, That is great to hear!. I bought a 645 kit a while back but have not used it yet. I have been looking into it more the past few days and one thing to keep in mind that was a help to me is this. To get the equivalent field of view of a 35mm, you need to subtract 1.5 .. 75mm = 50mm or so I have read.
Congrats séamuis! I have one with the metering prism and a couple lenses. I love it.

The above FOV advice applies to the 645. For the 6x7 you divide by 2 so a 55mm becomes a 28 mm and so on.
12-27-2008, 10:58 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by Boucicaut Quote
Congrats séamuis! I have one with the metering prism and a couple lenses. I love it.

The above FOV advice applies to the 645. For the 6x7 you divide by 2 so a 55mm becomes a 28 mm and so on.
Thank you!. This is great info!
12-28-2008, 06:55 AM   #8
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thanks for all the advice guys I knew you'd come through! I'm thinking that the 105 may be my best choice for now and I may look into the 165 later. im not sure about a leaf shutter lens. as I currently have the AF280T and I rarely use that. and thanks for the congrats, I know I will enjoy it, but Ive got a bit of a learning curve. I am about as MF ignorant as it gets, as Ive never ventured outside of 35mm. and thanks for the math thats absolutely appreciated. thanks again guys.

12-28-2008, 09:52 PM - 1 Like   #9
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Well, there's more to the math stuff. Recently on another thread we had some discussion regarding depth of field. Misere and gooshin had great input...

As soon as you look through the viewfinder you'll notice the "halving" of the lens length vs 35mm--a 100 is like a normal 50 on 35mm. That's the easy part. You're first roll or even while checking depth of field you'll find that it also seems to be cut in half. So those wide open shots with defocused background are easier to achieve even at f4 or f5.6, but you'll want to stop down more than you do with 35mm for equivalent depth of field. I notice it severely with macro and landscapes, but you'll even notice the "halved" depth of field on portraits--watch out for soft noses and ears, or softer hair highlights than you may want.

Further, in this world of yin and yang, MF requires stopping down more to "recover" depth of field relative to what you are used to with 35mm. But MF lenses also can stop down a stop or two farther than 35mm lenses before diffusion becomes a problem. I commonly shoot landscapes at f22 with minimal loss of resolution through the 45/4 (if you are skeptical I can suggest examples on my website--sorry I'm not bright enough to link it here).

Now I'm all fired up for you to shoot a roll. The first roll will bug your eyes out on a light table. Go to your local camera store and try a used 67 lens just to burn a roll at their shop...Doesn't every camera store have a couple dusty 67 or 6x7 lenses in a corner somewhere?

After my first roll in '99 or '00 through a 67II, I practically stopped carrying my 35mm and FA* & Limited lens collection. Pretty much went MF for two or three years (other than wildlife stuff requiring the big superteles) and still reach for it when I feel a shot is important. Took MF to Inuit whaling camp 450 miles North of the Arctic Circle; around Northwest Territories a few trips; Alaska a few trips; all over Alberta, BC, the Pacific Northwest. Sure glad I did. My work has been more thoughtful and therefore better with MF. Pretty sure you'll have your own version of a MF epiphany. It's just so rewarding I can't wait for you to experience it. I'm so excited for you that I'm kindof like a wagtail puppy dog so fired up it pees on the floor...go get a lens and shoot!
12-28-2008, 10:25 PM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ron Boggs Quote
. . .
. . .Go to your local camera store and try a used 67 lens just to burn a roll at their shop...Doesn't every camera store have a couple dusty 67 or 6x7 lenses in a corner somewhere?

. . .
I used to think that until I moved to Tallahassee!
12-29-2008, 06:17 AM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ron Boggs Quote
Well, there's more to the math stuff. Recently on another thread we had some discussion regarding depth of field. Misere and gooshin had great input...

As soon as you look through the viewfinder you'll notice the "halving" of the lens length vs 35mm--a 100 is like a normal 50 on 35mm. That's the easy part. You're first roll or even while checking depth of field you'll find that it also seems to be cut in half. So those wide open shots with defocused background are easier to achieve even at f4 or f5.6, but you'll want to stop down more than you do with 35mm for equivalent depth of field. I notice it severely with macro and landscapes, but you'll even notice the "halved" depth of field on portraits--watch out for soft noses and ears, or softer hair highlights than you may want.

Further, in this world of yin and yang, MF requires stopping down more to "recover" depth of field relative to what you are used to with 35mm. But MF lenses also can stop down a stop or two farther than 35mm lenses before diffusion becomes a problem. I commonly shoot landscapes at f22 with minimal loss of resolution through the 45/4 (if you are skeptical I can suggest examples on my website--sorry I'm not bright enough to link it here).

Now I'm all fired up for you to shoot a roll. The first roll will bug your eyes out on a light table. Go to your local camera store and try a used 67 lens just to burn a roll at their shop...Doesn't every camera store have a couple dusty 67 or 6x7 lenses in a corner somewhere?

After my first roll in '99 or '00 through a 67II, I practically stopped carrying my 35mm and FA* & Limited lens collection. Pretty much went MF for two or three years (other than wildlife stuff requiring the big superteles) and still reach for it when I feel a shot is important. Took MF to Inuit whaling camp 450 miles North of the Arctic Circle; around Northwest Territories a few trips; Alaska a few trips; all over Alberta, BC, the Pacific Northwest. Sure glad I did. My work has been more thoughtful and therefore better with MF. Pretty sure you'll have your own version of a MF epiphany. It's just so rewarding I can't wait for you to experience it. I'm so excited for you that I'm kindof like a wagtail puppy dog so fired up it pees on the floor...go get a lens and shoot!
wow what an insight! and thank you very much for the info regarding DOF. I will be bookmarking this thread for sure. I haven't purchased a lens yet. will be doing that in the next day or two, but I'm not sure if I am going to get it CLA'd first or not. it seems to function properly, and the last owner sated he has had no problems with it. but with the cost of film and developing particularly MF I want to make sure my equipment is ready to go before I start shooting. thank you again, and I hope I dont keep you waiting too long, but I promise I will post my frst photos here for all to see (regardless of how they come out).
12-29-2008, 07:32 AM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by séamuis Quote
wow what an insight! and thank you very much for the info regarding DOF. I will be bookmarking this thread for sure. I haven't purchased a lens yet. will be doing that in the next day or two, but I'm not sure if I am going to get it CLA'd first or not. it seems to function properly, and the last owner sated he has had no problems with it. but with the cost of film and developing particularly MF I want to make sure my equipment is ready to go before I start shooting. thank you again, and I hope I dont keep you waiting too long, but I promise I will post my frst photos here for all to see (regardless of how they come out).
Ok, I guess I'll have to promise the same Today or tomorrow I'll try to post pics from my first roll of 120 film from last summer. Unfortunately my only possibility is to scan from regular size lab prints and, which is maybe even worse, using an el cheapo Canon multipurpose inkjet/copier/scanner!...the procedure won't do justice to the original at all. Can I post them here or should I start a separate thread?
12-29-2008, 07:38 AM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by Boucicaut Quote
Ok, I guess I'll have to promise the same Today or tomorrow I'll try to post pics from my first roll of 120 film from last summer. Unfortunately my only possibility is to scan from regular size lab prints and, which is maybe even worse, using an el cheapo Canon multipurpose inkjet/copier/scanner!...the procedure won't do justice to the original at all. Can I post them here or should I start a separate thread?
Ill leave that up to you, it wont bother me one way or the other.
12-29-2008, 10:10 AM   #14
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My less traveled 67II body is posted in the marketplace with a few photos.

The green photo (sorry bad scan with pitiful color cast) was shot at f22 with the 45mm ultrawide angle. Foreground is about 18" away and diffusion is barely noticeable--I'm looking at a 30"x40" right now. The macro shot was made with the 100/4 Macro with lifesize teleconverter and probably f22. Also looking at a 30x40 of that and it's scary sharp. The slot canyon was done with 45mm at f22 and the winter trees were shot through the M*300/4 ED at either f16 or f22. The 6x7 format is really fun! Don't be afraid to stop down!
12-30-2008, 05:21 PM   #15
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Ok Séamuis, so here it goes. The following eight images are from river Oulankajoki flowing through the Oulanka national park where I work. They were taken last summer and were my first 6x7 shots ever. Two of the ten frames were just too bad two upload even for this purpose. They were developed by a lab and I specifically asked them to not correct, adjust or modify anything as I wanted to test the metering and the camera in general.

All were taken with a Pentax 6x7 MLU eqiuipped with a TTL prism. Film was Tri-x and the lens was 90mm f2.8 leaf shutter (didn't use the LS feature though). All are hand held (so MLU not used).

The pictures were scanned using a Canon Pixma MP160 (sigh...) from regular size paper prints (sigh...).

I think some of them are over exposed / have blown out parts but these problems seem to have been exaggerated by the scanning process...don't know why. I did try to find difficult lighting conditions with heavy shadows and sunlit parts and one of the images is shot at the sun without a lens hood. I realize I should have tilted even more the one where my wife and daughter are on the shore...doesn't look very good as it is.

First five pics here and the last three in the next message...

Best regards,
Boucicaut
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