[cfarley]

I was loaded a new roll of film. I moved the exposure compensation dial to the "ISO" setting. After setting the ISO to 200, I started to move it back and the dial popped off the camera! I believe I have all the parts (the plastic dial and the inner button). I was able to move the dial back to the position that allows me to shoot (0EV compensation) by holding the dial and inner button in place with my fingers. But now I can't really move the dial anywhere else... I am not sure why, and I'm not willing to force anything. I'm probably just not able to get enough leverage on the metal disc that sits under the plastic dial, or maybe something else is wrong.

Is there anybody in the USA who repairs these old cameras? It seems like it would be a really simple repair. I can obviously continue to use the camera with manual settings and an external light meter. Or I can just use 200 ISO film for the rest of my life. But I'd like to keep this camera alive and kicking!

[niceshot]

Slow down first don't lose the pieces. Second I am sure it is an easy fix . put up some pictures of this thing. Just stay calm.

[cfarley]

Sure, I am attaching some photos of the (now naked) EV dial and the two parts I have.


Even when I insert the center button and depress it, the dial stays locked in its place. I can see the metal washer deflecting a bit, but not enough to allow anything to rotate to a different position.

[Racer X 69]

Sure, I am attaching some photos of the (now naked) EV dial and the two parts I have.


Even when I insert the center button and depress it, the dial stays locked in its place. I can see the metal washer deflecting a bit, but not enough to allow anything to rotate to a different position.

Looks like there are 3 screws that hold the dial to the top of the mechanism, and the bosses the screws fit into have fractured from the dial.

The mechanism would need to be removed, the screws withdrawn and the bosses glued back into place, then the whole thing reassembled.

Or, one could put a drop of cyanoacrylic glue ("Super Glue") on each of the bosses and simply set the dial back into place. It the glue holds, it would be fixed.

[cfarley]

I take back what I said about not being able to turn the dial. I just wasn't applying enough force! It does indeed move normally.


Still would like to know the best way to re-adhere the dial assembly. Super glue?

[niceshot]

Don't glue anything. Stop slow down, extract the screws and I am pretty sure if you use an exacto knife you can pry off the covering on the knob that is off the camera so as to avail you the opportunity to re install new screws. Take your time patience is virtue, DO NOT USE GLUE.

[cfarley]

I think in order to back the screws out, I need to remove the top cover. I watched a YouTube video on the 645N top cover removal, and it is not that trivial. You have to remove the leatherette in order to access many of the screws needed to remove the top cover.

And even then, I would need to perform surgery on the exposure comp dial to get those plastic bosses back in place.

There's a

Youtu.be

Youtu.be

where a guy uses contact cement (rather than super glue) to attach a 3D printed shutter speed dial to a 645N. Maybe that would be better than super glue. It's easily removable with naphtha. However, I'm worried that I couldn't get everything aligned properly. Plus, there's only a small contact patch for the glue to work...

One other possibility would be to just pull the spring out of the assembly (so I don't lose it), and just live with it as-is. I can live without the exposure comp dial for the most part. I could put a tool in my bag so I can rotate the dial if I need to change ISO.

[niceshot]

If you decide to glue it use clear silicone and wait the night. If it was me , I would put three small dots of clear silicone where the screw go and drop it on and wait at least a day. If it doesn't work just peel off the silicone. Silicone is like magic, remember do it at your own RISK.

[Not a Number]

It's probably the three bosses that holds the dial on either by friction or glued in. 3D print a dial with the bosses, pry out the broken ends and press fit the replacement dial. You probably don't need glue if you have the right tolerances on the bosses. You could probably pry out the broken ends and glue them back but on my experience the bond won't be strong enough no matter what glue you use and they'll break again. My Manfrotto tripod head uses the exact same boss system to hold a couple plastic plates on. I broke a couple of the bosses taking the head apart to clean and regrease it. Fortunately there is no stress on the plates normally so model airplane glue is sufficiently strong enough for normal use. The bosses tend to break if I try to remove the covers unless I am very careful. I've had to remove them a couple times to make adjustments.

If the person making the video printed the dial with the bosses and dug out the broken bits he probably would have needed glue. Dribbling solvent into the dial mechanism wouldn't be a good idea as it will get into other places and who knows what it will do to lubricants and other components.

Although it is also likely the dial is held on by screws as Racer says. In which case, you have to take it apart to get at the screws.

[Not a Number]

You can try contacting the guy that has the "Fix Old Cameras" channel on youtube. He is even willing to spend time on the phone going over what you should do.

Note: since this thread has gone into the DIY repair advice rather than where to find repair service I'll move it to the Medium Format section.

[niceshot]

Just follow that youtuber,that will work.

[yurihuta]

I've had Jaron - TheNimsloGuy (on Instagram) repair three different 645N bodies for me. One of them was for the other dial (for which I had the replacement dial for). His tip for installing new dials (if you can find one) is to add dabs of superglue to the posts where the screws reside in as reinforcement before installing.

Here is his video on dial replacement -

You Tube

You Tube