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03-05-2009, 01:08 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Blue Quote
I use an Epson V500 for both MF and 35mm negatives, slides and prints. I retired my HP as a document only scanner.
what are your impressions of it? how big of a print do you feel comfortable making from the scans?

03-05-2009, 01:49 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by k100d Quote
what are your impressions of it? how big of a print do you feel comfortable making from the scans?
Over all, I like it. I feel that I have about the same or less limitations than I would have in the dark room with the MF or 35mm negatives but more flexibility. The true limitations for me is with the original quality whether it is a print or negative/slide. I'll try to post some specifics later.
03-05-2009, 02:26 PM   #18
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Part of me thought it was really too good to be true... Coolscan 8000, just CLA'd by Nikon ($400 service), for $800!! But it works. I just need to find time to learn to scan properly.

QuoteOriginally posted by k100d Quote
8000 for <$1000! ... wow, that's a really good find.
mmmmmm imacon
03-06-2009, 08:40 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by yurihuta Quote
I just need to find time to learn to scan properly.
My advice is to be patient. Scanning is an art in itself. I don't know how many times I've gone back and looked at old scans with something akin to horror! These days I try and keep my monitor well calibrated, and keep my adjustments on separate Photoshop levels so I can tweak them later. My wife thinks I'm mad.

Ron, the problem with Contrast and Brightness (at least in most implementations) is that it can lead to blown highlights or squashed blacks. Levels and curves are both much kinder to the image.

03-06-2009, 09:29 AM   #20
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Are you talking "levels and curves" in the scanning software? Or are you saying that I should wait to undertake contrast and brightness issues until after the scans? Luckily, most of my work doesn't require much brightness or contrast tinkering, especially not to the extent of what I did with the example image. My understanding is that it's best to fix things during the original scan whenever possible rather than waiting to do it in post processing.? No?
And yes, I understand problems like blown out highlights and in fact tried to show the potential problems in the image with blown out highlights, too much contrast and too much saturation--the image on the lower left.
Keep up the dialog, I need all the help I can get!---but you'll never get me to use photoshop for each scan...every now and then, sure...always? Never! Remember the goal of my workflow is to scan sellable images without using photoshop. That's an extra step in the workflow that is worth avoiding whenever possible.

Last edited by Ron Boggs; 03-06-2009 at 09:31 AM. Reason: wording
03-07-2009, 05:26 AM   #21
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Ron, I completely understand your desire to avoid time-wasting Photoshop work on your scans. Any scanning software worth its salt will have levels and curves options. Levels is the simplest, and the one I use most.

After making your prescan, crop off any black or white borders (this is important). Then open the levels dialogue and move the left-hand slider to the start of the main hump, and do the same with the right-hand slider. This will help ensure your scan has the widest possible distribution of tones. (It pays to leave a little space for headroom at each end.) If you need more brightness, move the middle slider to the left (bearing in mind that the scanner's preview image is not that good). This just tells the scanner that a darker value is to become the new 'middle' value.

Trying to achieve the same thing by bumping up the brightness will merely move the entire 'hump' over to the right, possibly causing your highlights to move off the scale (ie, blow out).

I hope this entirely non-technical explanation is sufficiently lucid to make some kind of sense!
03-08-2009, 12:45 PM   #22
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Makes lots of sense. In fact, I think that's exactly what Auto Histogram Adjust does on my scanner--leaving headroom and everything--I wondered why the pointers weren't auto set to the exact bright and dark spots on the histogram...yes? And once adjusted, is it then "safe" to do more extensive customizing?
03-08-2009, 02:59 PM   #23
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It's a clever bit of software that leaves headroom, but great! What might be happening is that sometimes the histogram isn't high enough resolution to actually see the end points clearly - which is one reason why you should leave headroom if doing it manually (another reason is simply that your image may not have actual 100% white in it, and once you've set a white point, that's it - no going back).

After you've done your levels or curves, there's usually no need for further tweaking, except sharpening or noise reduction, if that's your thing (I recommend Neat Image to remove chroma noise added by your scanner). It's still not safe to use contrast/brightness, and never will be! (Unless you've got Photoshop CS3+, that is.)

To OP: sorry for threadjacking!

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