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08-24-2009, 12:18 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by D W Quote
Your big concern should be that it comes with two 220 back. There is less choice of 220 film emulsions and if the choice for Kodak/Fuji to trim production 220 will get canned first.

Even on ebay many seller sell their 120 back separately for more $$ and sell the body or "kit with 220 inserts.
Thanks for reminding me. I'll almost certainly buy a 120 back for the situations where the film I want to use is only available in that size. However, I'm far too spoiled by large storage capacities and as long as I can find a decent black & white emulsion in 220, I'll be happy 90% of the time.

08-24-2009, 05:46 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by Charles Hueter Quote
My single biggest problem is the viewfinder. It does not have an eyecup and the eye relief is rather short. I struggled trying to see the current exposure settings at the bottom in landscape orientation and had trouble seeing the whole frame in portrait. I may ask this in a different thread, but does anyone have any suggestions about how I could improve the viewfinder?
You should be able to pick up viewfinder accesories for it on KEH or ebay. There is the big flat type and the eyecup type, IIRC.
08-24-2009, 05:59 PM   #18
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I really enjoy the view through the finder on mine.

Adjusting the diopter may help you see all of it better (the eyepiece barrel rotates with click-stops).
08-25-2009, 09:02 AM   #19
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Get the bigger eye cup adjust the diopter properly and in my case, use the grid screen. The Pentax has one of the brightest viewfinder in 120mf class.

08-25-2009, 09:05 AM   #20
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Regarding zoom - remember you are moving around a lot more glass and mass compared to 35mm or Dslr
10-24-2009, 04:02 PM   #21
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Viewfinder fix

QuoteOriginally posted by Charles Hueter Quote
My single biggest problem is the viewfinder. I may ask this in a different thread, but does anyone have any suggestions about how I could improve the viewfinder?
I just finished " fixin' " the viewfinders on my MX and Mamyia 645.

Cut and filed the plastic lens from an old pair of reading glasses (1.25x) to be a press fit in the VF frames. Added a tiny touch of silicon sealer to hold 'em in place. Three blanks from one lens.

Cost - nuthin' but time. Results - excellent. No more juggling reading glasses to manually focus.

To try it, hold an appropriate diopter lens to the VF frame. Whatever works for about 2 1/2 - 3 feet distance reading should work.

If precise cut n' file is too much, the additional lens works just as well cut to " sort'a fit " glued to the outside of the VF frame - just doesn't look good. Black marker for the edges to kill side light.

H2
10-27-2009, 09:53 PM   #22
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I second the evaluation of the price - this is a good deal.

QuoteOriginally posted by Charles Hueter Quote
$600 for the kit.
10-28-2009, 10:25 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by pacerr Quote
I just finished " fixin' " the viewfinders on my MX and Mamyia 645.

Cut and filed the plastic lens from an old pair of reading glasses (1.25x) to be a press fit in the VF frames. Added a tiny touch of silicon sealer to hold 'em in place. Three blanks from one lens.

Cost - nuthin' but time. Results - excellent. No more juggling reading glasses to manually focus.

To try it, hold an appropriate diopter lens to the VF frame. Whatever works for about 2 1/2 - 3 feet distance reading should work.

If precise cut n' file is too much, the additional lens works just as well cut to " sort'a fit " glued to the outside of the VF frame - just doesn't look good. Black marker for the edges to kill side light.

H2
That sounds pretty interesting, could you clarify? You essentially replaced the viewfinder optics closest to the user's eye with a cut-down lens from a pair of reading glasses? Or did you attach it as an additional "element" to the viewfinder? My confusion is from your use of "viewfinder frame" as, to me, it could mean the actual view inside the viewfinder or the physical metal-plastic frame holding the viewfinder together.

I'm still rather new to the 645.

I have adjusted the stock diopter so the LCD reads clearly, but that didn't fix my problem. I think it's a question of eye relief; for me, it is rather short so I have to place my eye very close to the viewfinder to see the whole image and the information on the LCD.

I bought an eyecup from KEH but I can't figure out how to attach it. Might want to read the manual someday...but even with the eyecup on it will only reduce the level of distracting outside light and doesn't look like it will address my primary complaint above.

11-08-2009, 09:55 AM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by Charles Hueter Quote
I bought an eyecup from KEH but I can't figure out how to attach it. Might want to read the manual someday...but even with the eyecup on it will only reduce the level of distracting outside light and doesn't look like it will address my primary complaint above.
Just an update: after actually reading how to attach the sucker, I put it on there and shot four rolls at a friend's wedding over the Halloween weekend. It made a huge difference. Perhaps it just forces me to keep my eye in the right position or perhaps the rigid eyecup is made of magic, but it improved things substantially.

The reading glasses idea sounds good and I'll test that soon to see if it makes things better.
11-18-2009, 05:18 PM   #25
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Sorry to hijack, but along the same lines of a good deal: is $500 a good deal for a 645 with three lenses, SMC A 45, 75 and 200, and an AF 400T flash? Thanks in advance.
11-19-2009, 08:42 AM   #26
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This does look like quite a nice deal. The assumption is that the glass is in great condition. Any film holders included?

QuoteOriginally posted by builttospill Quote
Sorry to hijack, but along the same lines of a good deal: is $500 a good deal for a 645 with three lenses, SMC A 45, 75 and 200, and an AF 400T flash? Thanks in advance.
11-19-2009, 08:53 AM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by yurihuta Quote
This does look like quite a nice deal. The assumption is that the glass is in great condition. Any film holders included?
The ad says "the camera is set up for 120, but 220 is possible too." I'm guessing the camera comes with just a 120 back??

What's the difference between the 645 and the 645n's?
11-19-2009, 02:06 PM   #28
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The set up for 120 to me implies it has the 120 back and that you can also purchase a 220 back.

The differences between the 645 and 645N (owned both, currently have 3 - 645N bodies)
- 645N has a much brighter viewfinder (although if you are new to 645 and coming from DSLR or 35mm SLR world, the 645 viewfinder appears massive, the 645N is equally as massive, but significantly brighter)

- 645N has a dual six segment matrix metering system as well as spot metering and center weighted (645 only has center weighted)

- 645N autofocuses FA lenses and gives focus confirmation with A lenses (really helpful for me with my A series lenses)

- 645N has a more traditional control layout than 645

- Pentax USA still services 645N bodies and no longer services 645 bodies. Although plenty of independent shops likely work on 645 bodies and there are plenty of bodies out there to cannibalize for parts.

- they are about the same in the hand with some subtle differences

The 645 is really a nice body. The 645N is a really nice body as well, more features.
11-19-2009, 02:29 PM   #29
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Thanks Yuri, three 645Ns! Wow.

So what's the difference between the 645N and the 645Nii?
11-19-2009, 05:23 PM   #30
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I am an equipment glutton, especially with the Pentax 645 series.

I am not entirely certain, but I believe the 645NII allows the user to set up some custom functions - whereas the 645N has to be sent into Pentax to have this done. I think the 645NII has more custom functions available as well.

Hopefully, someone who is more familiar with the NII will chime in.

QuoteOriginally posted by builttospill Quote
Thanks Yuri, three 645Ns! Wow.

So what's the difference between the 645N and the 645Nii?
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