Forgot Password
Pentax Camera Forums Home
 

Reply
Show Printable Version Search this Thread
04-16-2011, 02:52 PM   #1621
Pentaxian
fs999's Avatar

Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Luxembourg
Photos: Gallery
Posts: 3,590
Nice shots gtxtom !

Pink on Blue



645N • FA150 • Rollei Retro 100 in R09 1+100 60min @ 20C

First light of my Jupiter 36B



645N • Jupiter 3.5/250mm • TMax 400 in R09 1+100 60min @ 20C

Macro Leaf



645N • Jupiter 3.5/250mm • Hoxa Closeup n3 • TMax 400 in R09 1+100 60min @ 20C


04-16-2011, 04:06 PM   #1622
Inactive Account




Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Stockholm
Posts: 224
Now I'm done with Photobucket, and over to Flickr... Which means more stuff from my first home developed C-41 roll with the 67II!















04-17-2011, 01:12 PM   #1623
Pentaxian
fs999's Avatar

Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Luxembourg
Photos: Gallery
Posts: 3,590
Nice shots Martin ! Welcome on board !
The sharpness of the ropes is excellent !
04-18-2011, 12:49 PM   #1624
Senior Member




Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 267
QuoteOriginally posted by Makten Quote
Now I'm done with Photobucket, and over to Flickr... Which means more stuff from my first home developed C-41 roll with the 67II!
never done c-41 developing myself - how is it like? Tougher than b&w developing, right? Which film did you use, btw? How did you scan these, and did you do any post production?

04-19-2011, 08:59 AM   #1625
Pentaxian




Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Seattle
Posts: 7,017
QuoteOriginally posted by phonoline Quote
never done c-41 developing myself - how is it like? Tougher than b&w developing, right? ...
The process can be basically the same as BW in a daylight tank that is hand agitated. The steps for the C-41 Unicolor and Jobo Press Kits I use include Pre-Soak, Developer, Bleach Fix, Wash, Stabilizer and Dry.

The inconvenient part is the higher temperatures. The recommended pre-soak and developer needs is 102F (=39C) for a hand tank so you spend more time getting that right. Putting your chemical containers and daylight tank in a beverage cooler filled with water at the correct temperature helps make this doable at home. You can read about the process in this Unicolor Kit Instruction Sheet found on that link.

The shelf life of the chemicals once mixed is short too by comparison. And a lot of hand waving goes on about the useful capacity from the manufactures. The bleach fix can be a bit messy when used in a stainless steel tank with the rubber tops. The warmed up rubber lid inevitably leaks the blix during agitation on mine. But I have a large enough sink to perform the agitation over though.
04-19-2011, 09:33 AM   #1626
Inactive Account




Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Stockholm
Posts: 224
QuoteOriginally posted by fs999 Quote
Nice shots Martin ! Welcome on board !
The sharpness of the ropes is excellent !
Thanks! The 105/2.4 is really nice at f/4.

QuoteOriginally posted by phonoline Quote
never done c-41 developing myself - how is it like? Tougher than b&w developing, right?
It's basically the same, but as tuco says, the temperature is the hard part. Just leaving the bottles in warm water takes a looooong time to get to the right temperature. I have a plastic box with a hose from the tap in my kitchen, so that I can let hot water flow constantly past the bottles for a while. But the worst prolem is probably to keep temperature while agitating. I have no idea of what goes on inside the tank during development, but I can't believe that it stays at 38 degrees C for more than a few seconds as you lift it out of the bath.

QuoteQuote:
Which film did you use, btw? How did you scan these, and did you do any post production?
Very expired (2003) Fuji Reala. I scanned with my V700, using the Epson Scan software. I've applied a slight curve on them afterwards, and of course sharpening. But they looked quite good straight out of the scanner, so to speak.
04-19-2011, 11:04 AM   #1627
Pentaxian




Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Seattle
Posts: 7,017
QuoteOriginally posted by Makten Quote
...
It's basically the same, but as tuco says, the temperature is the hard part. Just leaving the bottles in warm water takes a looooong time to get to the right temperature. I have a plastic box with a hose from the tap in my kitchen, so that I can let hot water flow constantly past the bottles for a while. But the worst prolem is probably to keep temperature while agitating. I have no idea of what goes on inside the tank during development, but I can't believe that it stays at 38 degrees C for more than a few seconds as you lift it out of the bath.
...
I "pre-zap" my chemicals in the microwave and then put them in the cooler with the hottest water from my tap (=125F/52C) and close the lid. I go load my film on the reels. By time I'm done with that, the temperature is just about there. When it is, I refill the cooler to the correct temperature.

I rarely do one roll at a time. I wait for two rolls. And 1000ml of mass at 102F/39C should have a negligible temp change due to heat transfer by radiation and conduction with my 98F/37C hand which should be the primary modes of heat transfer in a room at, say, 68F/20C and calm air in the 10 seconds it takes to agitate the tank then return it to the bath of water.
04-19-2011, 02:29 PM   #1628
Inactive Account




Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Stockholm
Posts: 224
QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
I "pre-zap" my chemicals in the microwave and then put them in the cooler with the hottest water from my tap (=125F/52C) and close the lid. I go load my film on the reels. By time I'm done with that, the temperature is just about there. When it is, I refill the cooler to the correct temperature.

I rarely do one roll at a time. I wait for two rolls. And 1000ml of mass at 102F/39C should have a negligible temp change due to heat transfer by radiation and conduction with my 98F/37C hand which should be the primary modes of heat transfer in a room at, say, 68F/20C and calm air in the 10 seconds it takes to agitate the tank then return it to the bath of water.
Your hand is not 37 degrees on the outer skin. Though you might be right about it being a non issue. But don't you agitate continiously for the first 30 seconds? That was what I was referring to, since 5-10 seconds every half minute probably won't do anything.

I've only developed two rolls so far, but the second one came out like crap. I suspect it was the film that hadn't been stored properly for being usable (expired 2006). I'll develop my next roll tomorrow, and that's a fresh one.

Have anyone tried 8 minutes @ 30 degrees development with any of these kits? The manual of the Tetenal kit says it can be used if the results aren't good enough at 38 degrees.

04-19-2011, 02:51 PM   #1629
Senior Member




Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 267
Thanks Makten & Tuco for the descriptions. Sounds interesting, although I'll probably keep my focus on developing b&w (I work with a 67II) and on shooting color with the 645D.

I LOVE the bokeh of the 105 in your pictures, Makten. Such a great lens. Btw, did you do anything with the saturation or is this the result of the expired Fuji Reala?

The V700 sounds like an interesting alternative to the Flextight I use (but rent at high prices). Can you scan negatives at 3200 dpi with the v700? Is there a way for you to show the original scan you made of one of the pictures?

Thanks again!!
04-19-2011, 04:11 PM   #1630
Pentaxian




Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Seattle
Posts: 7,017
QuoteOriginally posted by Makten Quote
Your hand is not 37 degrees on the outer skin. Though you might be right about it being a non issue. But don't you agitate continiously for the first 30 seconds?
The instructions with my kits say continuous agitation for the first 10 seconds and 4 inversions every 30 seconds after that for the developer.

I think it's recommended to use a rotary tube for the lower temperatures and longer times.
04-19-2011, 05:59 PM   #1631
Junior Member




Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Alberta
Photos: Gallery
Posts: 36
Jasper National Park, Alberta. Sunrise at Pyramid Lake.

Pentax 645D w/ P67 55-100 and 90-180 zooms. Wonderfully Sharp
Attached Images
View Picture EXIF
 Photo 
View Picture EXIF
 Photo 
04-19-2011, 09:41 PM   #1632
Pentaxian




Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Seattle
Posts: 7,017
QuoteOriginally posted by materialsguy Quote
Jasper National Park, Alberta. Sunrise at Pyramid Lake.

Pentax 645D w/ P67 55-100 and 90-180 zooms. Wonderfully Sharp
Nice natural looking landscapes. A nice change from all the heavily post processed ones that seem to be the norm in digital landscape these days.
04-20-2011, 10:52 AM   #1633
Inactive Account




Join Date: May 2007
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
Posts: 652
QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
...
The shelf life of the chemicals once mixed is short too by comparison. And a lot of hand waving goes on about the useful capacity from the manufactures. The bleach fix can be a bit messy when used in a stainless steel tank with the rubber tops. The warmed up rubber lid inevitably leaks the blix during agitation on mine. But I have a large enough sink to perform the agitation over though.
Funny all the talk of home c-41 lately, I've also started developing it. I'm using flexicolor chemicals from photographers formulary. It uses a separate bleach and fix, and the bleach is always messy. It creates gas as it works and the tank needs to be constantly burped. I just leave the cap off or at an angle between agitations.

The flexicolor steps are like this:

2 minute pre-soak to get the tank, reels, and film up to temp(not in the instructions).
1. Dev for 3:15; 30sec initial agitation then every 15 sec
2. Bleach for 6:30; 30sec initial agitation then every 30 sec
3. Wash for 1:30
4. Fix for 6:30; 30sec initial agitation then every 30 sec
5. Wash for 3:30
6. Final rinse for 1:30; 30 sec initial agitation then sit.
7. Dry

Adjust times by 15 sec every 4 rolls. Discard after 10-16 rolls.

Lots of steps and agitation, but it's been pretty straightforward and the results have been perfect. As good or better than the photo store mini-lab I was using. Cost is about $3.00 a roll.
04-20-2011, 12:36 PM   #1634
Loyal Site Supporter
eddie1960's Avatar

Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Toronto
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 12,235
C-41 home process appeals to me but the price is no better than the mini lab for 35mm (2.99 develop and scan) so it really only makes sense for 120 or push processing 35mm from what I see
04-20-2011, 12:36 PM   #1635
Loyal Site Supporter
eddie1960's Avatar

Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Toronto
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 12,235
QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
Nice natural looking landscapes. A nice change from all the heavily post processed ones that seem to be the norm in digital landscape these days.
+1 to this ^^^ good work
Reply

Bookmarks
  • Submit Thread to Facebook Facebook
  • Submit Thread to Twitter Twitter
  • Submit Thread to Digg Digg
Tags - Make this thread easier to find by adding keywords to it!
645d, 645z, camera, cameras, cheapo, drive, efex, film, flickr, format, frame, fujifilm, holes, lens, lomo, medium, medium format, p67ii, pentax 67, portra, post, road, roll, scanner, shot, shots, silver, software, strait, takumar 90mm
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
First Medium Format straightshooter Pentax Medium Format 3 08-24-2010 07:10 AM
Medium format... D4rknezz Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 9 04-06-2010 03:59 PM
Medium Format Soon? k100d Pentax News and Rumors 0 03-04-2009 12:09 PM
Medium Format Buffy Pentax Medium Format 5 03-19-2008 12:04 AM



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 06:48 AM. | See also: NikonForums.com, CanonForums.com part of our network of photo forums!
  • Red (Default)
  • Green
  • Gray
  • Dark
  • Dark Yellow
  • Dark Blue
  • Old Red
  • Old Green
  • Old Gray
  • Dial-Up Style
Hello! It's great to see you back on the forum! Have you considered joining the community?
register
Creating a FREE ACCOUNT takes under a minute, removes ads, and lets you post! [Dismiss]
Top