[lbenac]

Took advantage of snow in our little park for some early night shots with the 500CM.
I discovered that might Gossen Luna Pro SBC was out of its depth at night so exposure has been somewhat by inspiration only...

The dark side



The Light



Almost daylight



Hasselblad 500 CM Distagon 50/4 Across 100 Rodinal 1+100 Stand

Cheers,

Luc

[jake.astig]

Hasselblad 500 CM Distagon 50/4 Across 100 Rodinal 1+100 Stand

Ibenac, how long was the stand development for this?

[lbenac]

Ibenac, how long was the stand development for this?

1 hour. Invert first minute then turn tank upside down for 10 minutes in the middle (I think it helps with a more uniform development).

Cheers,

Luc

[jake.astig]

1 hour. Invert first minute then turn tank upside down for 10 minutes in the middle (I think it helps with a more uniform development).

Cheers,

Luc

Thanks much!!!

[Nesster]

Hello Jussi,

Thanks I found that information on the net so the lens was build in 1945 and the camera sometime after.
More questions if you do not mind:
1) Do you know what is the size of the filter thread - series VI can be about anything in regards of the filter thread the only standard is that the filter is 40 or 40.5 mm?
2) Likewise is the tripod socket standard size? Are you using a quick release or anything like it or just shooting hand-held?

Cheers,

Luc

Luc, you're thinking of the series VI adapters - of which there are many - this camera takes Series VI straight, no adapter I screwed my Kodak aluminum shade straight into the lens thread, and so on.

What you'll need is a Ser VI 'keeper' and/or a lens shade. The Series VI filters themselves aren't threaded - you stack them on and hold them in with the keeper or the shade.

Standard tripod socket. Much to my surprise I haven't had the camera on a tripod yet, somehow the shape size and weight have resulted on pretty good shake control.

one more from the first roll of Delta 100

[goddo31]

I must say, I am rather enjoying hearing about this Kodak Medalist adventure you guys are going on. And Jussi's results with it look fantastic.

[lbenac]

What you'll need is a Ser VI 'keeper' and/or a lens shade. The Series VI filters themselves aren't threaded - you stack them on and hold them in with the keeper or the shade.

This is what I was thinking about.
I have a "spare" Canon Serenar hood/ring that allow the series VI filters to be included within the hood assembly (very convenient).
The thread is 40mm for Canon RF LTM lenses.
The Medalist I purchased does not seem to have the filter retainer anymore (you can see the thread) and in any case I would prefer to have filter plus hood as opposed to the filter flush.

Cheers,

Luc

[tuco]

1 hour. Invert first minute then turn tank upside down for 10 minutes in the middle (I think it helps with a more uniform development).

Cheers,

Luc

That's a good tip. I seem to always have uneven development with stand and Rodinal. It seems the larger the negative, the more problematic it is. This one avid Rodinal developer told me it was temperature difference. But I've controlled that about the best that one can do with an accurate thermometer and I still have the problem. But this guy only shoots small format. I should give him a roll of 120 or some sheet film and see how he does with that.

Nice shots, btw.

[fs999]

Took advantage of snow in our little park for some early night shots with the 500CM.
I discovered that might Gossen Luna Pro SBC was out of its depth at night so exposure has been somewhat by inspiration only...

The dark side



The Light



Almost daylight



Hasselblad 500 CM Distagon 50/4 Across 100 Rodinal 1+100 Stand

Cheers,

Luc

Nice shots !
What was the exposure time for the two lasts ?

[lbenac]

Nice shots !
What was the exposure time for the two lasts ?

Thanks.
I think 30' F5.6 and 1' F11 but don't quote me on this

[lbenac]

That's a good tip. I seem to always have uneven development with stand and Rodinal. It seems the larger the negative, the more problematic it is. This one avid Rodinal developer told me it was temperature difference. But I've controlled that about the best that one can do with an accurate thermometer and I still have the problem. But this guy only shoots small format. I should give him a roll of 120 or some sheet film and see how he does with that.

Nice shots, btw.

I have a gut feeling that with 120 we get some form of over development on the border of the film from time to time. I do not know if it is at the bottom of the tank or on top so I am trying out the reverse thing.

Thanks.

[lbenac]

Karl Bryan the person that overhaul my Autocord, recommended another repairman with a lot of experience on the Medalist and old folders.

Mark Hansen, classiccamera@comcast.net. Mark
also has a web site, ZeissIkonRolleiRepair.com.

I was in touch with him, and he advised against making the 120 conversion. This is what he said:

I myself have a camera that has been converted to 120, and it is more trouble to use than having to re-spool film.
No one advertising 120 conversions for the Medalist fixes the film transport to have auto stops as it should, so you have to turn the film advance knob x number of turns, to advance the film, and you never know what exposure you are on.

He was highly recommended so i have no reason to doubt him.

Cheers,

Luc

[Nesster]

That's good info to have - no wonder there's a 'supply side' only conversion they do.

Some observations: 1) getting the 620 spool out of the take up side is a PITA, unless there's something I have yet to discover. That thing is tight. 2) For respooling, certain makes look to be better than others. Kodak backing paper is flimsy and I've yet to try... Ilford (and I'd say Foma) are good, with solid fat paper... My experiment with Neopan wasn't so good - the Fuji paper is almost sticky slick on the film side and the film is very curly... I missed the start of the film on the respool and it slid on TOP of the paper... no real problem, I can feel the film start in the camera... but I got light leaks at the start of the roll. I'll need to be more careful with the Fuji in the future.

[lbenac]

That's good info to have - no wonder there's a 'supply side' only conversion they do.

Some observations: 1) getting the 620 spool out of the take up side is a PITA, unless there's something I have yet to discover. That thing is tight. 2) For respooling, certain makes look to be better than others. Kodak backing paper is flimsy and I've yet to try... Ilford (and I'd say Foma) are good, with solid fat paper... My experiment with Neopan wasn't so good - the Fuji paper is almost sticky slick on the film side and the film is very curly... I missed the start of the film on the re-spool and it slid on TOP of the paper... no real problem, I can feel the film start in the camera... but I got light leaks at the start of the roll. I'll need to be more careful with the Fuji in the future.

I talked again with Mark and he agreed that doing the conversion on the feed side only would make a lot of sense. This way the transport will still change to the next exposure as it should based on the 620 take up spool but there is no need to re-spool the 120 feed or buy 620 re-spooled directly.
Of course you need to carry a few empty 620 spools when you change film but that is not a big deal. And of course remember not to throw away your 620 spool when you develop

Cheers,

Luc

[dugrant153]

Taken on Kodak Portra 400 NC, believe it or not!
Also, believe it or not - this was taken hand-held!