[fs999]

Nice shots gtxtom !

Pink on Blue



645N • FA150 • Rollei Retro 100 in R09 1+100 60min @ 20°C

First light of my Jupiter 36B



645N • Jupiter 3.5/250mm • TMax 400 in R09 1+100 60min @ 20°C

Macro Leaf



645N • Jupiter 3.5/250mm • Hoxa Closeup n°3 • TMax 400 in R09 1+100 60min @ 20°C

[Makten]

Now I'm done with Photobucket, and over to Flickr... Which means more stuff from my first home developed C-41 roll with the 67II!

[fs999]

Nice shots Martin ! Welcome on board !
The sharpness of the ropes is excellent !

[phonoline]

Now I'm done with Photobucket, and over to Flickr... Which means more stuff from my first home developed C-41 roll with the 67II!

never done c-41 developing myself - how is it like? Tougher than b&w developing, right? Which film did you use, btw? How did you scan these, and did you do any post production?

[tuco]

never done c-41 developing myself - how is it like? Tougher than b&w developing, right? ...

The process can be basically the same as BW in a daylight tank that is hand agitated. The steps for the C-41 Unicolor and Jobo Press Kits I use include Pre-Soak, Developer, Bleach Fix, Wash, Stabilizer and Dry.

The inconvenient part is the higher temperatures. The recommended pre-soak and developer needs is 102°F (=39°C) for a hand tank so you spend more time getting that right. Putting your chemical containers and daylight tank in a beverage cooler filled with water at the correct temperature helps make this doable at home. You can read about the process in this Unicolor Kit Instruction Sheet found on that link.

The shelf life of the chemicals once mixed is short too by comparison. And a lot of hand waving goes on about the useful capacity from the manufactures. The bleach fix can be a bit messy when used in a stainless steel tank with the rubber tops. The warmed up rubber lid inevitably leaks the blix during agitation on mine. But I have a large enough sink to perform the agitation over though.

[Makten]

Nice shots Martin ! Welcome on board !
The sharpness of the ropes is excellent !

Thanks! The 105/2.4 is really nice at f/4.

never done c-41 developing myself - how is it like? Tougher than b&w developing, right?

It's basically the same, but as tuco says, the temperature is the hard part. Just leaving the bottles in warm water takes a looooong time to get to the right temperature. I have a plastic box with a hose from the tap in my kitchen, so that I can let hot water flow constantly past the bottles for a while. But the worst prolem is probably to keep temperature while agitating. I have no idea of what goes on inside the tank during development, but I can't believe that it stays at 38 degrees C for more than a few seconds as you lift it out of the bath.

Which film did you use, btw? How did you scan these, and did you do any post production?

Very expired (2003) Fuji Reala. I scanned with my V700, using the Epson Scan software. I've applied a slight curve on them afterwards, and of course sharpening. But they looked quite good straight out of the scanner, so to speak.

[tuco]

...
It's basically the same, but as tuco says, the temperature is the hard part. Just leaving the bottles in warm water takes a looooong time to get to the right temperature. I have a plastic box with a hose from the tap in my kitchen, so that I can let hot water flow constantly past the bottles for a while. But the worst prolem is probably to keep temperature while agitating. I have no idea of what goes on inside the tank during development, but I can't believe that it stays at 38 degrees C for more than a few seconds as you lift it out of the bath.
...

I "pre-zap" my chemicals in the microwave and then put them in the cooler with the hottest water from my tap (=125°F/52°C) and close the lid. I go load my film on the reels. By time I'm done with that, the temperature is just about there. When it is, I refill the cooler to the correct temperature.

I rarely do one roll at a time. I wait for two rolls. And 1000ml of mass at 102°F/39°C should have a negligible temp change due to heat transfer by radiation and conduction with my 98°F/37°C hand which should be the primary modes of heat transfer in a room at, say, 68°F/20°C and calm air in the 10 seconds it takes to agitate the tank then return it to the bath of water.

[Makten]

I "pre-zap" my chemicals in the microwave and then put them in the cooler with the hottest water from my tap (=125°F/52°C) and close the lid. I go load my film on the reels. By time I'm done with that, the temperature is just about there. When it is, I refill the cooler to the correct temperature.

I rarely do one roll at a time. I wait for two rolls. And 1000ml of mass at 102°F/39°C should have a negligible temp change due to heat transfer by radiation and conduction with my 98°F/37°C hand which should be the primary modes of heat transfer in a room at, say, 68°F/20°C and calm air in the 10 seconds it takes to agitate the tank then return it to the bath of water.

Your hand is not 37 degrees on the outer skin. Though you might be right about it being a non issue. But don't you agitate continiously for the first 30 seconds? That was what I was referring to, since 5-10 seconds every half minute probably won't do anything.

I've only developed two rolls so far, but the second one came out like crap. I suspect it was the film that hadn't been stored properly for being usable (expired 2006). I'll develop my next roll tomorrow, and that's a fresh one.

Have anyone tried 8 minutes @ 30 degrees development with any of these kits? The manual of the Tetenal kit says it can be used if the results aren't good enough at 38 degrees.

[phonoline]

Thanks Makten & Tuco for the descriptions. Sounds interesting, although I'll probably keep my focus on developing b&w (I work with a 67II) and on shooting color with the 645D.

I LOVE the bokeh of the 105 in your pictures, Makten. Such a great lens. Btw, did you do anything with the saturation or is this the result of the expired Fuji Reala?

The V700 sounds like an interesting alternative to the Flextight I use (but rent at high prices). Can you scan negatives at 3200 dpi with the v700? Is there a way for you to show the original scan you made of one of the pictures?

Thanks again!!

[tuco]

Your hand is not 37 degrees on the outer skin. Though you might be right about it being a non issue. But don't you agitate continiously for the first 30 seconds?

The instructions with my kits say continuous agitation for the first 10 seconds and 4 inversions every 30 seconds after that for the developer.

I think it's recommended to use a rotary tube for the lower temperatures and longer times.

[materialsguy]

Jasper National Park, Alberta. Sunrise at Pyramid Lake.

Pentax 645D w/ P67 55-100 and 90-180 zooms. Wonderfully Sharp

[tuco]

Jasper National Park, Alberta. Sunrise at Pyramid Lake.

Pentax 645D w/ P67 55-100 and 90-180 zooms. Wonderfully Sharp

Nice natural looking landscapes. A nice change from all the heavily post processed ones that seem to be the norm in digital landscape these days.

[Vertex Ninja]

...
The shelf life of the chemicals once mixed is short too by comparison. And a lot of hand waving goes on about the useful capacity from the manufactures. The bleach fix can be a bit messy when used in a stainless steel tank with the rubber tops. The warmed up rubber lid inevitably leaks the blix during agitation on mine. But I have a large enough sink to perform the agitation over though.

Funny all the talk of home c-41 lately, I've also started developing it. I'm using flexicolor chemicals from photographers formulary. It uses a separate bleach and fix, and the bleach is always messy. It creates gas as it works and the tank needs to be constantly burped. I just leave the cap off or at an angle between agitations.

The flexicolor steps are like this:

2 minute pre-soak to get the tank, reels, and film up to temp(not in the instructions).
1. Dev for 3:15; 30sec initial agitation then every 15 sec
2. Bleach for 6:30; 30sec initial agitation then every 30 sec
3. Wash for 1:30
4. Fix for 6:30; 30sec initial agitation then every 30 sec
5. Wash for 3:30
6. Final rinse for 1:30; 30 sec initial agitation then sit.
7. Dry

Adjust times by 15 sec every 4 rolls. Discard after 10-16 rolls.

Lots of steps and agitation, but it's been pretty straightforward and the results have been perfect. As good or better than the photo store mini-lab I was using. Cost is about $3.00 a roll.

[eddie1960]

C-41 home process appeals to me but the price is no better than the mini lab for 35mm (2.99 develop and scan) so it really only makes sense for 120 or push processing 35mm from what I see

[eddie1960]

Nice natural looking landscapes. A nice change from all the heavily post processed ones that seem to be the norm in digital landscape these days.

+1 to this ^^^ good work