Itshimitis, not to underestimate your talent, but have you tried not stopping down so darn much?
Even if diffraction is of little influence on these small images on the web, I'm sure your lenses will perform better if you choose a larger aperture; say f/8 and thereabout. You'll have plenty of DOF in most cases of the above images anyway. I seldom use f/16-22 even when shooting 6x7.
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Originally posted by tuco I see. I was just going off your raw scan. Raw scans can be flat and dull for sure. When I scan without clipping either end of the histogram, my raw scans are usually pretty accurate at telling me a delta difference in the tones of my exposure. They correlate pretty much with the EV differences my one-degree spot meter reads.
I don't know what scanner you use, but with the V700 I can't get even close to pure black or white even with a clear film base or pitch black densities of an overexposed negative. So the "raw" scan will always look dull, regardless of the contrast of the negative.
Quote: The hard part for me, however, is metering/developing to hit an absolute tone value. That is, meter and place a black just at the edge of lost detail and have it come out on the negative that way within a 1/3 of a stop. I get roughly ± a stop when I flirt with that edge on a good day. I find whites easier because I can pad in a buffer if you don't have to worry about where your lowest tones end up too much.
That's beyond my skills. I just try to place something in the middle of the tonal range of the scene at middle gray, and the latitude of the film usually takes care of any error. One stop above or below perfect exposure is really no problem with Tmax 400 or Tri-X.
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More Bessa and a scene I wouldn't even try with a digital camera.