[Swift1]

This isn't a medium format image, but it's kinda about one so I figured I'd share it.
Last night was my first ever gallery showing of my photos. I had 4 images on display, 3 were from digital and one was a medium format film image. The show was a huge success, lot's of people came out and I sold all 4 pieces plus another one.
This is a photo of me next to 2 of my images ( the bottom one was shot with a Pentax 67 on Provia 100F). This photo was taken by my wife, using my Pentax Q.

[672]

645D, 400mm 5.6 and converted FD600mm 4.5 cropped a lot

[kenafein]

This isn't a medium format image, but it's kinda about one so I figured I'd share it.
Last night was my first ever gallery showing of my photos. I had 4 images on display, 3 were from digital and one was a medium format film image. The show was a huge success, lot's of people came out and I sold all 4 pieces plus another one.
This is a photo of me next to 2 of my images ( the bottom one was shot with a Pentax 67 on Provia 100F). This photo was taken by my wife, using my Pentax Q.

Those are some great shots. I like the 2nd, especially.

[tuco]

This isn't a medium format image, but it's kinda about one so I figured I'd share it.
Last night was my first ever gallery showing of my photos. I had 4 images on display, 3 were from digital and one was a medium format film image. The show was a huge success, lot's of people came out and I sold all 4 pieces plus another one.
This is a photo of me next to 2 of my images ( the bottom one was shot with a Pentax 67 on Provia 100F). This photo was taken by my wife, using my Pentax Q.

Congrats!

[Swift1]

Those are some great shots. I like the 2nd, especially.

Congrats!

Thanks guys.

[wuzet]

My virgin, developed by myself roll of Velvia 100F ;-)
Pentax 67, Takumar 105/2.4

[tuco]

Shooting into the sun with Hasselblad and 80mm C T* on Velvia 50

An interesting application for this film. It turned out well.

[abieleck]

Last night was my first ever gallery showing of my photos. I had 4 images on display, 3 were from digital and one was a medium format film image. The show was a huge success, lot's of people came out and I sold all 4 pieces plus another one.

Congrats on the photograph sales. It would be fun to have some work featured in a gallery, even if they weren't up for sale.....good reason to print images and view them on a non-computer screen

An interesting application for this film. It turned out well.

I wasn't sure what I would get with that shot. It was at the end of the first roll of Velvia I put through. I am surprised at the range, I thought the wheat would be completely silhouetted but there is some good depth there.

Farm Sheep

Speaking of range, great depth in this shot as well.....and awesome capture of the sheep staring at ya

[abieleck]

Sawhorse by yo_tuco, on Flickr

I was just saying to a friend last weekend how I wanted to get a photograph of a field w/ a stationary object (barn, fence tractor ect)......use a long exposure, keep the object sharp against the blurred field. Your photo turned out great, great contrast between the sawhorse and wavy field.

I have used a ND400 filter with digital applications, but that comes with the ability for trail/error/review/correction. In terms of MF photography I would think you take a meter reading, then compensate for each "stop" of light loss ( 9 for the ND 400) by reducing the shutter speed by half/doubling the length of shutter speed? 1 sec.....2 sec....4 sec.....8 sec.....16 sec.....32 sec......ect?

[tuco]

I was just saying to a friend last weekend how I wanted to get a photograph of a field w/ a stationary object (barn, fence tractor ect)......use a long exposure, keep the object sharp against the blurred field. Your photo turned out great, great contrast between the sawhorse and wavy field.

I have used a ND400 filter with digital applications, but that comes with the ability for trail/error/review/correction. In terms of MF photography I would think you take a meter reading, then compensate for each "stop" of light loss ( 9 for the ND 400) by reducing the shutter speed by half/doubling the length of shutter speed? 1 sec.....2 sec....4 sec.....8 sec.....16 sec.....32 sec......ect?

Ha, I beat you to it. I've wanted to try it for a long time now myself and I finally found a scene on a windy day to test it out. Better low angle light would have been nice instead of mid day.

Yes, with my one-degree spot meter it's easy. I just meter for the exposure without a filter(s) on the lens then rotate the EV dial on the spot meter counting out the number of stops put on the lens and read what the new exposure time is. Note, however, this is Acros. No reciprocity corrections were necessary. With most other BW films, you need to add even more time to your exposure and how much you add is dependent on your final exposure time. So on one hand Acros makes it easy not having to carry a reciprocity chart with you but in bright light it means more dense ND filters to get long exposure times.

[gofour3]

Ha, I beat you to it. I've wanted to try it for a long time now myself and I finally found a scene on a windy day to test it out. Better low angle light would have been nice instead of mid day.

Yes, with my one-degree spot meter it's easy. I just meter for the exposure without a filter(s) on the lens then rotate the EV dial on the spot meter counting out the number of stops put on the lens and read what the new exposure time is. Note, however, this is Acros. No reciprocity corrections were necessary. With most other BW films, you need to add even more time to your exposure and how much you add is dependent on your final exposure time. So on one hand Acros makes it easy not having to carry a reciprocity chart with you but in bright light it means more dense ND filters to get long exposure times.

Very nice, almost looks like a soft lens shot but parts are in focus!

Phil.

[abieleck]

Ha, I beat you to it. I've wanted to try it for a long time now myself and I finally found a scene on a windy day to test it out. Better low angle light would have been nice instead of mid day.

Yes, with my one-degree spot meter it's easy. I just meter for the exposure without a filter(s) on the lens then rotate the EV dial on the spot meter counting out the number of stops put on the lens and read what the new exposure time is. Note, however, this is Acros. No reciprocity corrections were necessary. With most other BW films, you need to add even more time to your exposure and how much you add is dependent on your final exposure time. So on one hand Acros makes it easy not having to carry a reciprocity chart with you but in bright light it means more dense ND filters to get long exposure times.

Makes sense..... i think. Meter the scene, adjust the EV setting for 9 stops of light loss, put the ND filter in front of the metering lens and re-meter to see the new exposure time. Now I just have to get a larger threaded ND400 filter for the Hasselblad and figure out what kind adjustments to make depending on what film I am using. On a related note..... I am not real sure how the "green" shutter speed scale on the lens is used to calculate long exposures. As you can tell, my experience with long exposure on the Hasselblad is pretty limited

This photo is from a field that I have photographed a bunch of times as it is on the way to a friends house....might work for a long exposure MF photo, just got to wait for that breezy day.

Shot with a Hasselblad 500cm and C T* 80mm on Velvia 50

[tuco]

Makes sense..... i think. Meter the scene, adjust the EV setting for 9 stops of light loss, put the ND filter in front of the metering lens and re-meter to see the new exposure time. Now I just have to get a larger threaded ND400 filter for the Hasselblad and figure out what kind adjustments to make depending on what film I am using. On a related note..... I am not real sure how the "green" shutter speed scale on the lens is used to calculate long exposures. As you can tell, my experience with long exposure on the Hasselblad is pretty limited

This photo is from a field that I have photographed a bunch of times as it is on the way to a friends house....might work for a long exposure MF photo, just got to wait for that breezy day.

Shot with a Hasselblad 500cm and C T* 80mm on Velvia 50

That field looks good for it.

The EV scale on Hassy lenses is for taking your EV reading directly from, say, a spot meter and setting the lens to that. And since the scale is on the bottom side of the lens it is usually just easier to get the f-stop from the spot meter and use that instead. The EV scale on the lens won't work as I described using my spot meter since the lenses usually only goes down to 1-second before you need to go to bulb.

You rarely find reciprocity charts for color film. They usually say in the film data sheet to experiment on your own. You no doubt might experience color shifts. A lot depends on the film.

[tuco]

Very nice, almost looks like a soft lens shot but parts are in focus!

Phil.

Thanks, Phil

[abieleck]

That field looks good for it.

The EV scale on Hassy lenses is for taking your EV reading directly from, say, a spot meter and setting the lens to that. And since the scale is on the bottom side of the lens it is usually just easier to get the f-stop from the spot meter and use that instead. The EV scale on the lens won't work as I described using my spot meter since the lenses usually only goes down to 1-second before you need to go to bulb.

You rarely find reciprocity charts for color film. They usually say in the film data sheet to experiment on your own. You no doubt might experience color shifts. A lot depends on the film.

I do use a meter and the EV scale on the underside of the lens.....can get annoying having to flip it over to check, but I feel like I am slowly learning what aperture/shutter speed combos will lead to in terms of an EV reading. I figured the EV system wouldn't work with the lens only going to to 1 second and all....I just wonder why they bothered to put the green numbers on the lens.....so the photographer doesn't have to do the math of doubling....re-doubling ect. for each stop of light?

I have had color casts in the past using really dark ND filters on digital, so when I do make an attempt it will be with B/W film.....I figure it may allow for more latitude as well. My idea is to find 3 or 4 scenes that require long exposures, bracket the photos with varying exposure times, record the meta data and go from there. Do you bracket your longer exposures....or did you?