[tuco]

My K5, a M50 and a small extension tube.

That may work better with positive film. I've never tried it myself but editing out that orange base of color negatives seems like it would be a real challenging task.

[Nuff]

One more tip, you can use 80A filter to get the colour more in balance and eliminate the colour mask. Even with that I wasn't able to get it to look the way it should.

[wombat2go]

Nuff,
I found the 80A filter peaks up the Cyan too much which causes saturated red when inverted.
So I wait for a blue sky day and point the rig in opposite direction to the sun. -Blue sky seems to be more gentle than the 80A
Setting white balance on the camera is not relevant, as I take a raw file to ufraw to make a 16 bit TIFF and on to the contrast stacker.
I found it is critical to adjust the Histograms in the camera so that there is almost no information at each end.
That is not easy to do on the 3 channels, a few test shots are needed, adjusting the exposure carefully.
When I get a good camera shot, I do a color balance of the neg in ufraw before it is inverted,
as I found that minimizes the color balance needed when it is an 8 bit positive image.

If there are any values at the ends, they will be either saturated or lost when the neg is inverted and it will be no good.
Red is the troublesome one.
It looks like your sample image above maybe had some saturated red which became cyan.

Re-photographing the neg is quite a chore and my method is only suitable for a few shots per session - it sends me nuts
Scanning is a lot easier.
But my V600 scanner is acceptable only on 6 x7, 6 x 9 negs and it is no good on 35mm.

[Nuff]

Nuff,
I found the 80A filter peaks up the Cyan too much which causes saturated red when inverted.
So I wait for a blue sky day and point the rig in opposite direction to the sun. -Blue sky seems to be more gentle than the 80A
Setting white balance on the camera is not relevant, as I take a raw file to ufraw to make a 16 bit TIFF and on to the contrast stacker.
I found it is critical to adjust the Histograms in the camera so that there is almost no information at each end.
That is not easy to do on the 3 channels, a few test shots are needed, adjusting the exposure carefully.
When I get a good camera shot, I do a color balance of the neg in ufraw before it is inverted,
as I found that minimizes the color balance needed when it is an 8 bit positive image.

If there are any values at the ends, they will be either saturated or lost when the neg is inverted and it will be no good.
Red is the troublesome one.
It looks like your sample image above maybe had some saturated red which became cyan.

Re-photographing the neg is quite a chore and my method is only suitable for a few shots per session - it sends me nuts
Scanning is a lot easier.
But my V600 scanner is acceptable only on 6 x7, 6 x 9 negs and it is no good on 35mm.

I just realised that it was a total pain and gave up. I started shooting film to avoid post processing and not to make it into a nightmare
After adjusting the tray height to + on my V700, I started getting really good 6MP scans. I'm more than happy with them, since they are enough for an A4 print. They come out to be at around 275-250dpi.
For me, if I ever get an awesome photo that needs more dots etc... I will get that oddity professionally scanned.

But if I need bigger negs I use my hasselblad and I get 24MP scans. Here's a scan of E100VS shot (might be a wrong thread for it since it's 35mm photo ), but as you can see from this 2 pics, to me the resolution is sufficient.

I also find the tonality in highlights and shadows my better from scans on my V700 compared to my K5.

In my opinion if you are after preserving the look and colours of negatives, being colour or B&W, get a film scanner. Something like V600 or V700 and you will save yourself lots of time. With V700, I can scan 6 photos at a time

---

Last edited by Nuff; 09-16-2014 at 10:39 PM.

[Jonathan Mac]

Getting good colours is the number one problem with scanning too. My V500 very, very rarely gets the colours right on a scan and 90% of the time I can't fix them no matter what I do either before or after the scanning process.

There is no magic bullet other than paying big money for a pro lab to do it for you.

[Gareth.Ig]

...
For me, if I ever get an awesome photo that needs more dots etc... I will get that oddity professionally scanned...
...
In my opinion if you are after preserving the look and colours of negatives, being colour or B&W, get a film scanner. Something like V600 or V700 and you will save yourself lots of time. With V700, I can scan 6 photos at a time

I have been been tossing the idea of getting a scanner around, but I use the camera more for digital proofing than getting an image for posting. The irony of using a DSLR to take a picture of a negative is not lost on me.

Typically I bring the shot into LR, flip it, try to get the exposure and contrast where I want it and play around with the RBG curves until I get the color right. The process is not much more than 5 minutes, although I have yet to get the color just right.

That said, for black and white negs, I my results are quite usable.

I agree however, if I ever take a colour picture worth printing, its going to a pro.

[10speeduk]

[tuco]

Nice portrait, 10speed. Is there a gold reflector or something there?

[Pål Jensen]

Midnight sun.

One of those images that would have worked much better with digital instead of Velvia.
I used a hard edged, three stop Nd filter with the 150-300mm lens. This didn't really work as the mountans in the distance are not very sharp with a double edge to them; not visible in this print size.

[Nuff]

10speeduk, great portrait! One tiny thing, I would probably make the blacks bit darker in scanning, since 400H tends to show bit of noise after it's scanned in deep shadows.
Otherwise I love everything about this portrait.

[V10]

Fujica GW690 and Velvia 50:

[672]

90macro, #2 tube,several reflectors,cropped to 1:1

[10speeduk]

Nice portrait, 10speed. Is there a gold reflector or something there?

Thanks, it was natural light only, Sunny day, curtains half closed and my daughters yellow paddling pool outside hence the yellow light on camera right!

[Mindthemix]

Pentax 67II
Acros 100 @50
Kodak HC-110 (@71F) Dil H 1:63 / 8 minutes (30 seconds agitation / 2 inversions every 1.5 minutes)
Epson V600 (all options unmarked)

Right OOC with minor level adjustment (blacks point)

[LaHo]

I have tried to limit myself to Pentax cameras - film and digital - but that Nikon sure looks nice. Eye candy. :-)