Thanks for the comments on my Moraine Lake photo, Rick, Thomas & Mike.
Rick, my up-front HDR process is different than how I suspect most people use HDR. I'm not using the technique for a visual look, especially not an obviously surrealistic one. Rather I use it to generate a neutrally-toned intermediate file with a very full tonal range from shadows to highlights, great micro-contrast, and low noise. Consider it analogous to a neutral conversion of a super-RAW file, one that samples a much higher fidelity range of the scene's light. I mainly use a Windows-only app for this starting point these days -- Oloneo PhotoEngine. Oloneo makes it very fast and simple to get to a well-rendered file. I used to use Photomatix, and still do go back to it on occasion because it has some strong areas where it beats PhotoEngine; but it's a bit more work and slower to get to my preferred neutral starting point with Photomatix. Many other apps could be adapted to my type of approach, and I've looked at several of the other popular apps out there. But they're all slower and more work so I don't use them. Increasingly, my type of approach will be possible with little more than Adobe Lightroom (or Adobe Camera Raw within Photoshop) now that they support loading and working on some 32-bit HDR file types.
Once I have the neutrally-toned HDR file rendered back down into a 16-bit TIFF, I finish it in Photoshop using some layer blending but primarily curves work. Not dissimilar to Tony Kuyper-style luminosity masks & curves, but a bit more custom than that. I do very little colour adjustments in general, and when I do it's as often as not (as in this case) that I'm desaturating certain colour channels or hue ranges to make sure I retain a largely photorealistic (but still creatively interpreted
) rendition. My goal is a final image that looks like it could be from a single frame, but with a full tonal range that's as rich as I'd like in detail, and free of noise or other obvious processing artifacts. I half-jokingly say I often go to a lot of work to make it look like I don't do much work in post...
The Topaz filters I use most heavily are DeNoise and Detail, occasionally Remask to get a good initial selection in a particularly tricky area. I have most of the Topaz bundle but rarely use the others beyond these 3. My B&W work in particular isn't done with a filter, but rather manually in Photoshop.
The Z is proving to be killer, but the D remains eminently usable too. It's a win either way.