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photogem | |
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03-15-2021, 04:28 AM - 1 Like | #61 |
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03-15-2021, 09:26 AM | #62 |
03-19-2021, 02:54 PM | #63 |
It might well be the green solenoid already, in Europe they used the green solenoid in the flash circuit since introduction of the K100D in 2006. That was 5 years before manufacture of the K-r ended in 2011, the K-30 with the green solenoid for aperture control was already prepared for launch. I never came across any white DSLR solenoid failing but of course, further checks of your K-r would be needed, i.e. disassembly and measuring of the solenoid. You never mentioned this problem with your K-r here in the forum? | |
04-30-2021, 10:49 PM | #64 |
New information added: A photo for the difference of size between the stepper-motor used in the K7/5/3/KP and the Japan-Solenoid. Sometimes people demand this stepper-motor in entry-level Pentax, although I'd say since the K30/50 there weren't anymore any real entry-level bodies. Maybe the K500D and K-S1. To me real entry-level were *istDL, K100D, K110D, K-m/2000, K-x and K-r. K30, K50, K-S2 and K-70 are/were much more advanced. This motor draws much more milli-Amperes than the solenoid which explains to me why the D-LI109 in my KP does not last as long as in my K30. This motor demands the larger D-LI90. All those aspects will affect size, weight and costs. | |
05-11-2021, 07:25 PM | #65 |
So I have acquired a K-r from the Marketplace here because I needed a body to convert my DA*300mm from SDM to screwdrive. (A completely successful operation that resolved a problem wherein the SDM just would not settle in and lock focus over 50% of the time.) AFAICT, this is a K-r that was originally distributed in the US. (I think I’m the third owner.) Is it likely that this body has two white solenoids in it? I would like to resurrect my K-50 that suffered aperture block failure nearly four years ago. Is the green solenoid in the K-50 that is no longer properly controlling the aperture toast, or could it be put into the pop-up flash in the K-r in place of the white solenoid there, with that solenoid relocated to the K-50’s aperture block? If the green solenoid in the K-50 is useless, would it be awful to get a green solenoid to put into the K-r’s flash? I have zero use for the K-r now that my screwdrive conversion is done, but feel like exploring what options might exist for me to get something additional useful from it and then evaluate selling it (disclosing if I do put a green solenoid in the flash, of course).
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05-11-2021, 10:32 PM - 1 Like | #66 |
So I have acquired a K-r from the Marketplace here because I needed a body to convert my DA*300mm from SDM to screwdrive. (A completely successful operation that resolved a problem wherein the SDM just would not settle in and lock focus over 50% of the time.) AFAICT, this is a K-r that was originally distributed in the US. (I think I’m the third owner.) Is it likely that this body has two white solenoids in it? I would like to resurrect my K-50 that suffered aperture block failure nearly four years ago. Is the green solenoid in the K-50 that is no longer properly controlling the aperture toast, or could it be put into the pop-up flash in the K-r in place of the white solenoid there, with that solenoid relocated to the K-50’s aperture block? If the green solenoid in the K-50 is useless, would it be awful to get a green solenoid to put into the K-r’s flash? I have zero use for the K-r now that my screwdrive conversion is done, but feel like exploring what options might exist for me to get something additional useful from it and then evaluate selling it (disclosing if I do put a green solenoid in the flash, of course). Only in Europe Ricoh tested the green China-solenoid in K100/110/200D's as well as in the K-m, K-x and K-r in the flash circuit. That was actually the beginning of this whole story because they had tested it there long enough and there was no reason to daubt it would work well for aperture-control as well! So in some very rare cases one can find it there in the K-r as well but as far as I know only in Europe, such as most likely in the K-r by @Andrea K (his K-r worked well with Eneloops, which is a very typical sign for a green China-solenoid. But the K-r was troubled with other problems as well, which was in a way very sad because its sensor was quite good. The K-r was the switch-over to a new generation of Pentax bodies, i.e. the K30 which all were WR and had 2 thumbwheels. The only entry-level DSLR Pentax then produced was the K-S1 which was quite a beast for an entry-level Pentax, very remarkeable for its size, in Japan they were very proud of it! So most likely you will find 2x white DSLR Japan-Solenoids and you can safely transfer the green China-Gremlin into the flash-compartment of the K-r. Just not into the aperture-control-mechanism. And when you sell the K-r, mention the green solenoid because many buy it for that reason! Last edited by photogem; 05-11-2021 at 11:14 PM. | |
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05-18-2021, 02:13 AM | #68 |
My K-r has also a problem with the internal battery, it's exhausted and I will replace it soon... maybe the two things can be related? As side note another problem in the K-r is the focus shift under tungsten light but as already said the sensor is really good. | |
05-18-2021, 04:15 AM | #69 |
But AF with LV is really slow. The other problem was that they used the powersupply of the K-x but introduced the Li-Ion battery. That led partly to the mirror-flop. I am curious which solenoid you'll find in your K-r but somehow I don't think your problem is linked to the depleted backup battery. Maybe to a bad Li-Ion but more because the K-r was fuzzy because of the powersupply anyway. But remember, this is the solenoid-history thread. There are K-r threads. It should have been a nice camera, the sensor had something (same sensor in the K-x). But I never worked long enough with it. Last edited by photogem; 05-18-2021 at 04:23 AM. | |
06-02-2021, 11:34 AM | #70 |
Unfortunately, this K-r has a green solenoid in the flash compartment, at least based on the photos above. I'd have to put it all back together and put a battery back in to find a serial number to see if it's in the database here to see if we can track the origin of this camera (I'm at least the third owner.) to the EU or Switzerland. I'm thinking I will extract the while solenoid from its aperture block and transplant it to my K-50, since I just bought this K-r to convert my DA*300mm to screwdrive and this is a way to get more value out of it. However, that's likely a task for another day. Was hoping for a quick win that would find a white solenoid in the flash compartment, but alas…
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06-19-2021, 06:49 PM | #71 |
Apologies if I missed it, but is there a recommended source for the “good” white Japan solenoid? There seem to be lots of dodgy listings on eBay, so I’m concerned if the pricier ones labeled “white Japan” are legit or not. Thanks!
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06-20-2021, 01:09 AM | #72 |
The one to go for is clearly THIS ONE by a seller named potmano. There is a seller in UK, but I guess very strongly he sells SLR Solenoids from MZ-cameras, I am almost certain. Those can work but have limitations well described in this thread. | |
06-20-2021, 04:27 PM | #73 |
All listings from China, Hongkong etc. are indeed dodgy, worse than the one built in (made for Lenovo, they miss 2 pins). The one to go for is clearly THIS ONE by a seller named potmano. There is a seller in UK, but I guess very strongly he sells SLR Solenoids from MZ-cameras, I am almost certain. Those can work but have limitations well described in this thread. Though, after reading more, I realized that I also have my old/backup camera body sitting around: It’s a K-x, which I now understand has the white solenoid. The Kx works fine, but hasn’t been used in a couple years. (It’s been on the “I should probably sell this” pile for a long time now.) Alas - I could scavenge the white solenoid from the Kx, since it doesn’t have much resale value these days, but that seems awfully rude since it works fine. Hmm… | |
06-20-2021, 09:50 PM | #74 |
Many thanks - that’s the listing that I’ve been watching as well. Though, after reading more, I realized that I also have my old/backup camera body sitting around: It’s a K-x, which I now understand has the white solenoid. The Kx works fine, but hasn’t been used in a couple years. (It’s been on the “I should probably sell this” pile for a long time now.) Alas - I could scavenge the white solenoid from the Kx, since it doesn’t have much resale value these days, but that seems awfully rude since it works fine. Hmm… "Never touch a running system" Don't forget, this thread here is about the history of the solenoid. For each Pentax body we have particular threads! | |
10-15-2021, 03:42 AM | #75 |
Often I read about people using SLR-Solenoids from the MZ/ZX-Series and using those within their Pentax DSLR. In the main article you can read about the difference between SLR and DSLR Japan-made solenoids and why it is not a good idea to use those. I have done measurements on SLR Solenoids of the MZ50, MZ30 and MZ7. In all cases the solenoids behaved/measure identically. So I did a test by installing green China-Solenoids from a) K-30 b) K-50 c) K-S1 d) K-70 which had failed in their bodies into those 3 MZ-SLR bodies to see how they behaved. I often mentioned that the green China-made solenoid of a K-30 will work in the circuit of the pop-up flash such as ist*-D/L-series, K100D, K200D etc. The pop-up-flash is a much more simple mechanism than the complex aperture-control! 1. Green China Solenoid for pop-up flash in MZ30: Result: Flash did not pop up! One could hear the sound of the circuit trying to open the flash, but no success 2. I sanded the plunger of the solenoid very slighty: Still flash did not pop up 3. I sanded the plunger a tiny bit more: Now the flash didn't stay closed anymore, the force of the spring was too strong 4. Green "made in China Solenoid" in aperture of MZ30: More complex, one has to unsolder the white Japan SLR solenoid and resolder the the China-solenoid there, not quite so easy. Sorry for the pretty bad picture quality, I realized that later on, too late to take another photo. Result: The camera tried to fire but wouldn't! One could hear a similar sound as during the test with the pop-up-flash. 5 + 6: Same results with the MZ7 and with the MZ50! I have tried it as well with a MZ60: Here it is easier to replace the aperture-solenoid, but the result was negative, neither did the flash pop open nor did the body fire. Same sounds. | |
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