Originally posted by skoobie Hello all,
1. This is a dynamic range issue? Some of the shots were backlit to one degree or another, so necessary bandwidth exceeded the camera DR, resulting in loss of shadow detail?
2. This is a function of how I shot? I tend to treat ISO/aperture/shutter speed as interchangeable, but in fact they are not (I could have chosen another combination that would result in the same level of light falling on the sensor-- and the same histogram-- but it would lead to a better result)?
3. This is a function of the lens? I shot without a hood (would think this would be mostly a contrast issue)?
4. This is a sign from the photography gods that I should stick to auto modes (rejected out of hand, sort of like singing the loudest even if you can't carry a tune)!
Any thoughts on how to handle this type of lighting situation in the future?
-s
Noise resides in the dark, especially if you pull up the exposure in lightroom or Photoshop. I've seen some noise even in ISO 100-200 when I pull up the exposure in post production.
1) It's not a dynamic range issue but I do like your bandwidth/DR/shadow-detail theory that you've got going there.
2) Yes, this is definitely a function of how you shot. ISO/Aperture/Shutter is indeed interchangeable. However, depending on the situation one will often take priority over the other two.
3) Not a function of the lens. Stop blaming your equipment. 90% of the time it's user error. Hoods will only prevent flares and loss of contrast. It will not prevent clipping/noise/tsunamis/high crime rates and abortions.
4) No, this is a sign for you to stop blaming your equipment, suck it up and learn how to use manual mode.
The best way to prevent noise it is to over expose your shot by a tad bit, 1/3 to 2/3 of a stop, then pull down the exposure in post production. This is tricky as you will frequently clip highlights, but this is a legitimate method to prevent noise. Be sure to turn on CLIPPING preview and histogram so you can judge the range correctly. It's difficult to check for clipping on your LCD under bright sunlight, so having the flashing red is crucial.
My guess as to why you're seeing noise is because you're under exposing and pulling up the exposure in Lightroom, thus seeing the noise. I'd use ISO 400-800 indoors. If you're using the K-x, ISO1600 is totally usable. If you're most concerned about getting shots in focus, switch all the way up to f5.6 or f8 for the wide depth of field and consider even ISO 3200 to get it done.
Also, try using the spot meter. If the subject is wearing white, meter that, try to get it to be 2-3 stops over exposed, take a few test shots, check your histogram and clipping and adjust as needed. You can also meter off the skin tone, depending on their skin color (+1.66 for caucasians, -2 for dark blacks, etc) Since you're indoor, you're not under the mercy of clouds as much, so once you set up the aperture, ISO and shutter in manual mode, you can keep on taking photos. If you notice shifts in light caused by clouds, you can always adjust to compensate. I'd also suggest using flash so you can tone down the ISO and keep the aperture small.
Once you've done your due diligence during the shoot, you can also use the noise reduction feature of Lightroom 3 BETA, by far the best denoising software I've seen so far. Even beats Noise Ninja.