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05-28-2010, 06:44 PM   #1
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macro setting

I recently upgraded to a K-7..I can not find macro setting..do I need to use a macro lens for my camera? I had an istD previously & it had a macro setting.

I am still learning this new beast of a camera 7 I do love it..I ma still trying to get all the setting down & use too

Thanks, ~Debra

05-28-2010, 06:51 PM   #2
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DSLR's never have a macro setting. If anything, there's a macro mode, which adjusts the shutter speed and aperture so that it's optimal for macro shots. This mode is only available on the *ist DS/DS2, DL/DL2, K100D, K110D, K200D, K2000/K-m, and K-x. The *istD, K10D, K20D, and K-7 don't have this setting. BTW- all it likely does is try to use a smaller aperture.

If you want to achieve macro, you'll need a macro lens! However, close-ups, with a magnification ratio greater than 1:5, can typically be taken with any zoom lens.

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05-28-2010, 08:29 PM   #3
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Aperture priority with a DSLR!
05-29-2010, 05:45 AM   #4
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Thank you for your reply..I meant to say mode! On my istD it does have a macro mode. I used it all the time! I figured as much that I would need to adjust the settings and/or use a lens. Like I said before, I am still getting use to this camera. I appreciate your help Thanks again!!!

05-29-2010, 07:51 AM   #5
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Hi Debra,

The K-7 doesn't have a macro mode, and I don't know "exactly" what the istD emcompassed in it's macro mode, but I would say that the best "work around" would be to use Aperture priority (Av) mode and go for the smallest aperture you can get away with. Basically the reason is that the closer you are to your subject, the more narrow your depth of field is, and the less of your subject is in sharp focus. A smaller aperture (higher f stop number) gives you more depth of field and therefore you widen up that very narrow depth of field.
I also don't know how close you want to get, and I don't know what lenses you have, so I can't really advise you on whether or not you need a "true" macro lens. However, if you were happy with the results you got on the istD, I'd use that lens. Just be advised that the higher the f stop the slower the shutter will be. There will be a point where the shutter will be too slow to hand hold even with SR turned on and you will need to use either a tripod or a monopod.

NaCl(hope that helps)H2O
05-29-2010, 08:06 AM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by Debra Heschl Quote
I recently upgraded to a K-7..I can not find macro setting..do I need to use a macro lens for my camera? I had an istD previously & it had a macro setting.
The K-7 will focus just as closely as the istD with the same lens. Macro mode on a DSLR is just a program the engineers created to help inexperienced shooters. It's like a specialized Green mode. It doesn't do anything that a competent photographer can't do better.

Do you need a macro lens? Maybe, maybe not; it depends on what you want to photograph. The Pentax 18-55 with its 0.34X magnification (1:3 magnification ratio) would be called a macro lens if it were made by a third party manufacturer. Tamron and Sigma apply the "macro" label to close-focussing lenses as a marketing tool. For example, the Tamron and Pentax 18-250mm superzooms have a 1:3.5 magnification ratio. Only the Tamron version is called "Macro", though they are the same lens optically. No zoom will reach 1:1 magnification, but some can achieve 1:2, which was the standard for older macro lenses. Any current Pentax lens that is called macro will do 1:1, which is what most people consider real macro these days.

If you just want to photograph flowers, all you need is a close focussing lens like the DA 18-55. If you want to do extreme closeups of the stamens on a blossom, you will want 1:1 macro ability. If you can't afford a true macro lens, there are other less expensive methods like diopters and reversing rings.
05-29-2010, 12:48 PM   #7
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On my *ist DS, macro mode seems to do this:
The aperture is at least one stop down from the lens's maximum. When it's dark, the camera never uses a wider aperture than that. Shutter speed falls to whatever value would create a correct exposure. Focus is set to AF-S.

When there's enough light for shutter speed to increase, it rises until about 1/3x(focal length). Say you're using the DA 18-55mm f3.5-5.6 at 18mm. The aperture is f4.5 until it's bright enough for a shutter speed of 1/60s. Then the aperture starts to decrease (higher f number). When the aperture reaches about f8 at 18mm, f11 at 55mm, the camera doesn't raise it much more. I could get f13 or more only by pointing the camera at the midday sun. The shutter speed seems to need to get to 1/1000s before aperture goes to f13 or higher.

Auto ISO doesn't adjust that much. It likes ISO 400. On the DS, Auto ISO was added later in a firmware upgrade, so its programming might be a little odd.

If you're using the same kit lens on the K-7 for closeup shots, I would do this:
For hand-held shots, use the 1/focal length guideline for minimum shutter speed, so 1/20s for 18mm, 1/60s at 55mm. That's more conservative than for shots at a normal distance. The shorter distance means the camera is more sensitive to movement. The K-7's SR allows a bit more leeway here than the older camera. Shutter speed might have to be increased due to wind. With enough light, you can go as fast as 1/500s but faster than that shouldn't have any benefit.

The aperture setting affects light and depth of field. I might be more conservative than the DS would with aperture, maybe 1.5 stops smaller than the lens's minimum, for larger depth of field. That's more important if I'm really close to the lens's minimum focus distance. So that's f5.6 at 18mm, f9.5 at 55mm. With bright sunlight, I would go up to f16. Beyond that, there's other tradeoffs and technical concerns, although the lens can be set as high as f38.

You can set ISO as high as you need to, to get the other settings within the above range. The worst result of that will be a grainy photo. If the ISO wasn't high enough for the above settings, though, a close-up shot would have camera movement or too small depth of field. Grain is the least of your worries here.

When light levels are really low, a flash will help a lot. Extra light is good. The short burst of light also freezes motion. A tripod also helps with camera movement.
06-01-2010, 05:18 PM   #8
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Thank you all for your help...I really appreciate all the input you put in this for me to get a better understanding of my camera. Although I love the k-7, I am still trying to get use to all the settings..it is very different than the istD. I will print out all these comments & start playing with my camera!! Thanks again!!

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