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06-05-2010, 06:19 AM   #31
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I'd be paralyzed...

QuoteOriginally posted by RioRico Quote
What? Those are just the start. I've got my usual AF zooms: DA10-17, DA18-55 (with filters) DA18-250, FA100-300, Lil'Bigma 170-500. Then various primes (working up): 16/2.8, 21/3.4, 24/2, 28/2.8, 35's, various 50's, 58/2, 85/2, the 90/2.8 macro, the 100/2.8, a couple 135's, 180/5.5 or 200/5.6, 240/4.5, 500/8. I'm trying to keep the total to around twenty or so lenses. And tubes. And filters. And both the K20D and ZX-M bodies. And a couple MF folders. And some P&S digicams. No, I won't carry everything all at once, and not far. I hope.
Lordy, if it were me I'd be paralyzed with indecision! Too many choices!

Like cable TV - with so many channels I cannot choose one - same with wallpaper - an optimum choice is impossible!

The once-in-a-lifetime bird or bug would've flown way before I could choose the optimum lens!

Oh man, Life is Hell! Well, not exactly hell but really really heck!

That's not to say I have enough lenses yet..... or filters or bellows or...

06-05-2010, 12:21 PM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by newarts Quote
Lordy, if it were me I'd be paralyzed with indecision! Too many choices!
Oh, that's easy: Just throw dice. Twenty four lenses, four dice -- throw a 15, use lens #15 today! Let's see, that's the SuperTak 35/3.5 -- shoot landscapes!

The trick is, go somewhere, wander around for a day with one of the walkabout zooms, get a feel for what's there. The next day, take a couple lenses that seem appropriate. Inside or at twilight, carry the fastest glass. For daylit towns, take the 21mm (stopped down to f/8) and a 35mm and the 100-300. For beaches, carry the 16/2.8 fisheye, the 50 and 90 macros, the 500/8 mirror. For garish neon lights, take the 18-55 kit, the fast glass, and a yellow filter (maybe some other color filters too). For a walk in the woods, just the 90 macro and the 240/4.5.

Or pick a theme. Today, only ultrawides/fisheyes, or only Russian or German or old Takumar glass, or only a super-macro stack, or only the mirror, or only the 6x6 and 6x9 folders. (Contemplate the cost of film and processing; that'll slow down the shutter-finger!) Pick a limitation and work within it.

NOTE: I'm hauling all these lenses because where I live is visually dead boring, and this will be a chance to actually USE them. Besides, those old Taks are pretty compact...
06-05-2010, 01:59 PM   #33
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QuoteOriginally posted by RioRico Quote
Oh, that's easy: Just throw dice. Twenty four lenses, four dice -- throw a 15, use lens #15 today! Let's see, that's the SuperTak 35/3.5 -- shoot landscapes!........

Ha! I can turn anything into a personal nightmare! 4 dice isn't enough! The maximum you can roll is indeed 24, but the minimum is only 4, not 1.

Therefore you need 3 more lenses!

Dave

PS almost every situation can be used to justify more lenses.
06-05-2010, 03:10 PM   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by newarts Quote
Ha! I can turn anything into a personal nightmare! 4 dice isn't enough! The maximum you can roll is indeed 24, but the minimum is only 4, not 1.

Therefore you need 3 more lenses!
Numbers 1,2,3 are the Raynox and two teleconverters -- wild cards, throw again. Hey, to really make it interesting, I could just write a simple program that does the random selection for me. Then I won't get the center-weighting of a 4-dice scheme.

QuoteQuote:
PS almost every situation can be used to justify more lenses.
That's what I try to tell my financial director, but does she listen? I was lucky to get my MacTak 50/4 this week. It balances against a new pair of shoes...

06-05-2010, 04:01 PM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by Marc Sabatella Quote
That's actually very easy to explain even without pictures. On the K-7, the sensor is almost exactly one inch wide. So if the lens allows you to focus close enough to fill the width of the viewfinder with an object that is an inch wide, that's 1:1. If the lens won't allow you to fill the frame with an object that small, but will allow you to fill the frame with an object two inches wide, that's 1:2. And so on. Focal length has nothing to do with it. A 100mm macro lens that does 1:1 will fill the frame with that inch-long object exactly the same as a 35mm macro lens that does 1:1 will - the only difference is that the 100mm will allow you to do from farther away.
Sigma 105mm Macro at f/5.6. Very close to 1/2 life-size, And cropped a little. (center part in focus was just over 1 foot away. about), I don't pay to much attention, I know I can focus as close as needed


Same as above at f/4


------------------------------------------------------------------------------
f/10 Probably about 2 feet away. I find life-size on the sensor is "Very Close" and the shallow DOF can be a problem if you want it at 1:1. For greater DOF, I will shoot at 1/2 to 1/4 life-size... But, those are my preferences.


Last edited by arbib; 06-05-2010 at 04:06 PM.
06-08-2010, 05:14 PM   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by Marc Sabatella Quote
That's because those lenses are way more similar than different. You could flip a coin to decide and do as well as any other method.

Interesting question. You'd need a lens that was physically small so you could fit it and the camera under the flower, and also that had a very short minimum focus distance. Seems like the DA35 would be way to go for this.
Another way to shoot from underneath a flower, with good planning, is to shoot hanging flowers. this wasn't particularly planned - I was just walking around my house taking pics, and not a macro lens, but it shows the idea.
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