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06-18-2010, 09:44 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Alfisti Quote
To me you could do with a 20D or a 10D. Both are built like absolute tanks, better than the K7 FWIW.
Subjectively, they might seem better than the K-7 in build to some, but objectively speaking, it's the other way around. All are very very good good, to be sure, but polycarbonate is polycarbonate, and magnesium alloy is magnesium alloy. Aside from that, there's essentially no difference in build. The smaller size of the K-7 might make it seem less substantial, or more precisely engineered, depending on your preconceived notions, but there's not really anything to that.

06-20-2010, 02:04 AM   #17
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k7 is a real gem if you need weather resistance.

Compared to canikons, pentax cameras have focus confirmation & beep which is a big plus if you like old manual lens.

Lack of autofocus indicators in the viewfinder is... a plus for me. I don't need it because the proper technique is to center focus and recompose the framing.
07-02-2010, 01:08 PM   #18
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Well, finally pulled the trigger on a used K20D body. I'd been going back and forth between the K-x and the K20, but in the end I just like the idea of the K20 more even if it's a wash for my actual picture taking.

However, if I thought picking a body was tough, picking a lens is proving far worse! So many letters and numbers I don't know the significance of...
07-02-2010, 01:34 PM   #19
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The two numbers that are significant are focal length and aperture. Read up on those (Google should tell you a ton, any book on photography far more still) and that should answer mot questions. The only letters to care about are the ones right *before* the focal length: DA, FA, etc. And there are web sites that explain those too.

07-02-2010, 01:48 PM   #20
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I bought the pentax specifically because it uses the AA batteries. As for focus points, selecting the right one makes a big difference.
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