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07-09-2010, 12:05 AM   #1
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how to shoot panoramic photo on k-x?

Hi everyone i just bought a yellow colour k-x and wondering how to shot a panoramic photo with it?thank everyone

07-09-2010, 12:23 AM   #2
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Just take a number of overlapping photos and transfer them to your computer. Then use Autostitch to piece them together. There's a bit of tinkering needed, but it's an intuitive (and free to demo) tool that gives high-quality results.
07-09-2010, 01:29 AM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by Hightreason Quote
Just take a number of overlapping photos and transfer them to your computer. Then use Autostitch to piece them together. There's a bit of tinkering needed, but it's an intuitive (and free to demo) tool that gives high-quality results.
Do some Pentaxians know the differences between the two commercial versions of Autostitch?
*Panorama Plus (AUD$29 ~ US$25)
*AutoPano (US$139)

AutoStitch is a great software, but the demo version has an archaic interface.

Why is there such a difference in prices between these two softwares?

Has anyone some experience with one or both ? How is the interface compared to AutoStitch ?

Thank you in advance for any advice....

Last edited by hcc; 07-09-2010 at 02:58 AM.
07-09-2010, 04:36 AM   #4
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When shooting panos:

1. Try holding your camera vertically to get the most in each shot.
2. Use Manual mode so that the exposure is consistent throughout the scene.
3. Turn off AutoFocus.
4. Overlap each picture by a 1/3rd.

You can purchase an expensive Pano head but you can also shoot handheld, you just have to learn to rotate the camera, not your body. Pick a spot on the ground and make sure the camera stays above that spot for each shot. It's not perfect but will give better results than keeping your feet in one place and swinging your camera in an arc.

I would also suggest AutoSitch, it is actually the engine that other programs use to make panos.

07-09-2010, 06:11 AM   #5
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note that for accurate panoramas and to keep work to a minimum, you need to rotate the camera about the optical center of the lens, (I forget the techno-geek term for this)

rotation about any other point will make a perfect stitch-up much more difficult.

Also as others have pointed out,

-set exposure to manual so that you do not have a vertical line at the stitch point if you changed exposure.
-vertical mode is better
-a normal lens and many more segments is better (resolution wise) and has less distortion at the stitch points due to perspective.
07-09-2010, 06:58 AM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lowell Goudge Quote
note that for accurate panoramas and to keep work to a minimum, you need to rotate the camera about the optical center of the lens, (I forget the techno-geek term for this)

rotation about any other point will make a perfect stitch-up much more difficult.
This is called the nodal point. A panoramic tripod head, like the Panosaurus, lets you rotate the camera around the nodal point of the lens. The Panosaurus Rex is slightly less expensive and restricts you to single row panoramas.

The Panosaurus Panoramic Tripod Head Home Page
07-09-2010, 07:06 AM   #7
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I use autopano pro. Biggest plus that I've seen so far? It can use Pentax's RAW files natively. I have a couple DC panos I am working on that were stiched together using 3-4 PEFs. You can then export to TIFF or JPEG afterwards.
07-09-2010, 08:07 AM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by MrApollinax Quote
I use autopano pro. Biggest plus that I've seen so far? It can use Pentax's RAW files natively. I have a couple DC panos I am working on that were stiched together using 3-4 PEFs. You can then export to TIFF or JPEG afterwards.

Interesting, will it support DNG? It makes sense to stich them in some form of RAW and then do PP on the image as a whole.

07-09-2010, 08:42 AM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by bigdog104 Quote
When shooting panos:

1. Try holding your camera vertically to get the most in each shot.
2. Use Manual mode so that the exposure is consistent throughout the scene.
3. Turn off AutoFocus.
4. Overlap each picture by a 1/3rd.

You can purchase an expensive Pano head but you can also shoot handheld, you just have to learn to rotate the camera, not your body. Pick a spot on the ground and make sure the camera stays above that spot for each shot. It's not perfect but will give better results than keeping your feet in one place and swinging your camera in an arc.

I would also suggest AutoSitch, it is actually the engine that other programs use to make panos.
Actually at a seminar Kelby talked about stepping in the direction your shooting. take a shot and step. What you wind up doing is moving the lens around its nodal point. Closer anyway than standing still. It's improved my panos and I stand by it. With CS3 and 4 I've had to do little to no tinkering.
07-09-2010, 08:59 AM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by bigdog104 Quote
Interesting, will it support DNG? It makes sense to stich them in some form of RAW and then do PP on the image as a whole.
I do not know if DNG is supported or not. My humble K100DS does not capture images to DNG, only PEF or JPEG.
07-09-2010, 09:32 AM   #11
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I don't know if if this will help here, but if you do find that having DNG files will help, you can always use the free Adobe DNG Converter.
07-09-2010, 10:25 AM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by graphicgr8s Quote
Actually at a seminar Kelby talked about stepping in the direction your shooting. take a shot and step. What you wind up doing is moving the lens around its nodal point. Closer anyway than standing still. It's improved my panos and I stand by it. With CS3 and 4 I've had to do little to no tinkering.

Thanks, that I what I was trying to say but did not express myself very well. Move your feet so you are not swinging the camera in an arc.
07-13-2010, 05:55 PM   #13
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You can also use the free software "Microsoft ICE".
I've used it a couple of times with good results.
07-13-2010, 05:56 PM   #14
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..and welcome to the forums edd1388!
07-15-2010, 11:42 AM   #15
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Hugin is another free pano program, a little more powerful than autostitch but it still has a pretty automated UI.

I sometimes try to rotate the camera around the nodal point, sometimes not, either way the panos seem to come out just fine. The only time I've found it might matter is if there is a lot of close foreground stuff that goes out of alignment, but I find that hugin will just pick one or the other frame and shift the join line.
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