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09-13-2010, 04:15 PM   #1
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when the sky is bright

hey guys, i know that its a common issue and problem when doing scenery, but how do you allow the ground to be as bright as the sky? instead of just a silhouette?

09-13-2010, 04:19 PM   #2
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You'd have to either do an HDR photo, combine two exposures manually, use use a neutral density filter or a polarizer. If both are properly exposed to begin with (usually accomplished using -1EV), you can also just fix up your exposure in photoshop.

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09-13-2010, 04:22 PM   #3
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Just using a regular lens and one exposure, you have to choose what to correctly expose, either the sky or the ground, the ground is easier to recover in photoshop, but if the sky is overexposed, then you can never get it back

when would you ever want to expose for the ground then? when photoshop annoys you
09-13-2010, 07:43 PM   #4
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so the best fix is, under expose the sky, so the ground is darker, and then brighten up the ground in ps?

09-13-2010, 07:58 PM   #5
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No, properly expose the sky and then even it out is PS, if you properly expose the sky then the ground will be underexposed
09-13-2010, 08:34 PM   #6
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The usual optical solution is a GND (graduated neutral-density) filter, where half is darkened and half ain't. Don't leave home without it.
09-13-2010, 08:44 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by RioRico Quote
The usual optical solution is a GND (graduated neutral-density) filter, where half is darkened and half ain't. Don't leave home without it.
ive thought about these

so they do about the same huh? would you need different gnd filters? because what if its a different type of day and the filter doesnt work as it should? aka different lights from the sky?
09-15-2010, 03:21 AM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by mantis Quote
so they do about the same huh? would you need different gnd filters? because what if its a different type of day and the filter doesnt work as it should? aka different lights from the sky?
Many sorts of GND filters exist. Here's the Wikipedia entry on GND's. The one I use came from an eBay grab-bag of filters, a French-made Chromofilter M2 which is fairly hard-edge with about two f-stops difference between opposite sides. I suppose if I found a Galen Rowell set, I'd think of ways to use them. Consider what could be done with a center-spot filter...

09-15-2010, 06:09 AM   #9
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The filters mentioned are a good item to have but if you don't have them, you can get by simply with a slight under exposure. I spent this past Saturday at a large car show. It was bright sunshine in the middle of the day, probably the harshest light. I was using my 10-17 fisheye a lot as it is my widest and works quite well at an event like this which is crowded and you have to get very close to get any photos at all. I have no filters for this lens and I don't know of any. I got my best shots by setting the EV to -1 and stopping down to f/16 which helped with the lens flare. Remember that digital photos are free. Bracket your shots and see what works. Look at the shots on the LCD and if it is too bright to see, go by the histogram. Big peaks way to the right mean that you that you are overexposed. It was quite easy to adjust most of my shots in Elements by simply brightening up the shadows.
09-15-2010, 06:31 AM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by Adam Quote
You'd have to either do an HDR photo, combine two exposures manually, use use a neutral density filter or a polarizer. If both are properly exposed to begin with (usually accomplished using -1EV), you can also just fix up your exposure in photoshop.
brilliant idea i think
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