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09-17-2010, 12:51 PM   #16
Ira
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QuoteOriginally posted by future_retro Quote
looks like it works in Manual on the Kx
Really? I'm at the bar now and I have my K-x with me with the 105 Super-Tak on there.

Gotta try an experiment as soon as I finish this Bud.

09-17-2010, 02:08 PM   #17
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I have the DA-L 55-300 pretty much surgically fused to my Kx so maybe it doesn't work with manual lenses, I wouldn't know
09-17-2010, 02:12 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ira Quote
HDR won't work in M mode at all, right?
It works in M mode. I am guessing you are asking this because u r using MF lens (just looking at ur lens collection)

I was wondering abt the MF lens too, but i guess it works in theory since the K-x only varies the shutter speed to get different exposure.

I guess the best way to find out is to check it out if u hv ur k-x around.....i m so far away from it now (at work), and i m not good at remebering stuff at work ( I think i did an HDR wif my M 50 1.7........)
09-19-2010, 12:27 PM   #19
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Yep--it works.

In M mode, after hitting the Av button to lock in the base shutter speed, it fires off in HDR.

09-20-2010, 12:07 AM   #20
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Nice~ there will be some serious fun when u combine HDR and ur collection of those little MF gems, hv fun
09-20-2010, 01:22 AM   #21
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what do you need hdr for? to get detals in the shadows?

IMO hdr is not required for this.

here is what I do to get shadow detail:

If the day is sunny (there are no clouds) then I set +1/3-+1 EV overexpose, then I set spot metering and use AE lock button over the mostly bright place in my shot (usually it's the sky). then i point the camera where I intended and shoot, of course using RAW format.
If it's cloudy I set exposure to +0 and also AE lock on the sky, or use multi segment metering and set -1/3 EV correction without AE locking.

After taking such shot I load it into Lightroom3 and simply add "Fill Light" effect until the shadow parts of the shot are clearly seen. Of course there is a downside - I get about the same noise in the shadow I'd get by increasing ISO while leaving the same expopair (which however would cause overexposed white sky). It's mostly color noise which is immediately eliminated by color noise reduction, which does not cause blurring effect (unless you add luminance noise reduction). So I get both perfectly visible shadow portion and blue sky. No need to HDR. Plus there are no downsides of HDR, since there is only one shot with short exposure time. Of course if you dislike high ISO then you might not like this but IMO on k-x it's not an issue as long as color noise is handled.

There are probably better but harder ways to do the same thing - just make 3 shots from the single one in RAW converter, with different exposures, by simply changing exposure in converter and saving as jpeg, then use whatever program that makes HDR images from 3 shots of different exposure.
That's what the great dynamic range and low noise sensor of K-X for.

Just remember - do not ever overexpose - it's impossible to reclaim overexposed details from RAW, unlike underexposed ones.
09-20-2010, 03:34 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by olenl Quote
what do you need hdr for? to get detals in the shadows?

IMO hdr is not required for this.

here is what I do to get shadow detail:

If the day is sunny (there are no clouds) then I set +1/3-+1 EV overexpose, then I set spot metering and use AE lock button over the mostly bright place in my shot (usually it's the sky). then i point the camera where I intended and shoot, of course using RAW format.
If it's cloudy I set exposure to +0 and also AE lock on the sky, or use multi segment metering and set -1/3 EV correction without AE locking.

After taking such shot I load it into Lightroom3 and simply add "Fill Light" effect until the shadow parts of the shot are clearly seen. Of course there is a downside - I get about the same noise in the shadow I'd get by increasing ISO while leaving the same expopair (which however would cause overexposed white sky). It's mostly color noise which is immediately eliminated by color noise reduction, which does not cause blurring effect (unless you add luminance noise reduction). So I get both perfectly visible shadow portion and blue sky. No need to HDR. Plus there are no downsides of HDR, since there is only one shot with short exposure time. Of course if you dislike high ISO then you might not like this but IMO on k-x it's not an issue as long as color noise is handled.

There are probably better but harder ways to do the same thing - just make 3 shots from the single one in RAW converter, with different exposures, by simply changing exposure in converter and saving as jpeg, then use whatever program that makes HDR images from 3 shots of different exposure.
That's what the great dynamic range and low noise sensor of K-X for.

Just remember - do not ever overexpose - it's impossible to reclaim overexposed details from RAW, unlike underexposed ones.
In-camera HDR is a gadget, and who can resist gadgets?
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