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10-09-2010, 08:04 PM   #16
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Whether you need a long or short macro will depend on what you are shooting and where. I do a lot of outdoor shooting from a kayak on the water and find the long "macro" feature on tele zooms a good tool for my uses. I often can't get all that close. That said, I find macro shooting somewhat addictive and find myself doing more and more so I have since purchased a shorter macro zoom and M42 extension tubes which I use with my Taks.

10-10-2010, 03:44 AM   #17
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A Raynox 150 on the fully extended 90mm macro will increase the magnification to almost 2:1. It will decrease the working distance from about 180mm to about 90mm.

All lens functionality, including P-TTL flash, will be maintained. The outer edges of the photo will be soft - but this usually doesn't matter much.

I recommend you try it. It is an inexpensive, easy way to accomplish your goal. Other solutions mentioned, like simple extension tubes and bellows are more difficult to use.

Dave
10-10-2010, 11:41 PM - 2 Likes   #18
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May as well steal this thread....

QuoteOriginally posted by excanonfd Quote
Please post some photos of your setup, I have the same Soligor ringlight and changing lenses with the ringlight is time consuming.
Here are the photos:

- A 62mm Ser. VII adapter is epoxied to the Raynox universal adapter. Note the 62mm thread facing out so that there is enough glue surface area. The Ser. VII thread on the ringlight is attached inside the 62mm Ser. VII adapter.



- I chose 62mm (not smaller) because I'd like still to use the Raynox adapter with the Raynox lens. If the Ser. VII were any smaller, there wouldn't be enough space for the Raynox lens. This setup is nice if you want to use the Raynox lens with the ringlight. Here's a photo with the Raynox lens attached:



- Here's the ringlight with the Raynox adapter:



- The whole setup:



- The ringligh can be attached/deattached very quickly:



The opening of the Raynox is only 43mm so this may not work with some lenses (vignetting). But I know it works fine with Tamron 90mm macro F/2.8, Sigma 50mm macro F/2.8, Vivitar 135mm Close Focusing F/2.8, Pentax SMC-FA 50mm

Last edited by SOldBear; 10-11-2010 at 11:47 AM.
10-11-2010, 02:31 PM   #19
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Thanks SoldBear! That indeed is better than constantly changing Series VII rings (I have 6 rings ranging from 49mm to 67mm). Now I just have to find a local source for the universal mount, buying from Amazon puts the price at $60.00 (10.00 for the adapter, 50.00 for shipping).

10-11-2010, 06:00 PM   #20
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thanks guys, no i cant use my ring light, it was only a cheap one and its a bit big, as i said it hits the bellows rails unless i have the bellows extended out far enough that the lens passes the rails.

newarts,
i will look into that, thanks, is your quality of picture reduced from the raynox glass?

thanks everyone for the info
10-12-2010, 04:25 AM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by mantis Quote
newarts,
i will look into that, thanks, is your quality of picture reduced from the raynox glass?

thanks everyone for the info
A Raynox does not noticeably degrade images (except at the edges*). Here's a thread showing many excellent examples:
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-slr-lens-discussion/74221-raynox-macro-club.html

Dave

* edges are not important for macrophotography of natural subjects because Depth of Field is so limited (with 3D subjects the edges are out of focus due to DOF effects). Edge sharpness is important in macrophotography for truly flat subjects like postage stamps, integrated circuits, etc.
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