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10-11-2010, 10:45 PM   #16
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Yes,
lenses are not 100% comparable, but they are in same segment. I know f2.8 limited series are better , but far more $$$.

D90 pictures are over-oxposed because shots were be taken at same ISO,Shutter and aperture as K20, I shot first with.

My concern was that with K20 I have to use lower shutter speed to get proper exposure , but this will blur the picture and SR will not be in great help. Or spend a lot of money for better lens to compensate sensor low light sensitivity.

Static portrait/landscape scenes in bright daylight are perfect to shoot with K20, but I need more.

10-13-2010, 02:29 AM   #17
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I simply don't under stand the Op's question.
Looking at the two sets of supplied images neither would satisfy me and I would be applying compensation at the point of shooting for both sets.
Thats why both cameras mentioned have ev compensation buttons.
however if the question is how to correct the both under and over exposed examples supplied then; I would suggest first read and learn about the factors controling "correct" exposure, which is ,at best ,subjective anyway. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exposure_(photography)
And second rtm for the camera and test the setting methods available

"Exposure settings" taken from the above link.
"Correct" exposure may be defined as an exposure that achieves the effect the photographer intended. The purpose of exposure adjustment (in combination with lighting adjustment) is to control the amount of light from the subject that is allowed to fall on the film, so that it falls into an appropriate region of the film's characteristic curve and yields a "correct" or acceptable exposure."
.
10-14-2010, 05:30 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by adwb Quote
I simply don't under stand the Op's question.
Looking at the two sets of supplied images neither would satisfy me and I would be applying compensation at the point of shooting for both sets.
Thats why both cameras mentioned have ev compensation buttons.
however if the question is how to correct the both under and over exposed examples supplied then; I would suggest first read and learn about the factors controling "correct" exposure, which is ,at best ,subjective anyway. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exposure_(photography)
And second rtm for the camera and test the setting methods available

"Exposure settings" taken from the above link.
"Correct" exposure may be defined as an exposure that achieves the effect the photographer intended. The purpose of exposure adjustment (in combination with lighting adjustment) is to control the amount of light from the subject that is allowed to fall on the film, so that it falls into an appropriate region of the film's characteristic curve and yields a "correct" or acceptable exposure."
.
Increasing Ev doesn't give much benefit , and I am talking of 1,5-2 Ev steps at least. In JPG it puts a lot of noise and shooting in RAW and lot of ligtroom postprocessing is time consuming.
10-14-2010, 07:08 AM   #19
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based on your posts I would suggest if you think the Nikon is so wonderful you go get one.

10-14-2010, 08:49 AM   #20
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if you shoot JPG's straight out of camera, then you could just up the brightness in the jpg settings.
this should brighten images without increasing shutter/iso.
hope this helps.
10-14-2010, 11:54 PM   #21
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I use K20D and 16-45 as my walk around zoom - bright mode and +.7ev is my default setting when taking jpegs. Can still apply a little curves or levels adjustment after as necessary.
10-15-2010, 01:29 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by tanyo Quote
Increasing Ev doesn't give much benefit , and I am talking of 1,5-2 Ev steps at least. In JPG it puts a lot of noise and shooting in RAW and lot of ligtroom postprocessing is time consuming.
Your image exposure depends on metering mode you use too, and where you meter at also .
10-17-2010, 12:36 AM   #23
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You already received some solid advice.

I have a Voigtlander Nokton 58mm f1.4 to complement my DA18-250mm in low light conditions. (The choice was based upon some excellent advice that I received in his forum and I am very grateful.) Last month, I shot some breaking waves on the coast at sunset. After 19:15, it became too dark for the DA18-250mm for any good quality shots, and the shots taken after 19:20 were unuseable, even at ISO 6400.

On the other hands, I was able to use my Nokton 58mm until 20:00 when it was almost pitch black. Until 19:50 I was shooting at ISO 400 or less. (The lense was in A mode and my K-7 camera was in P mode.) What a difference ! A fast lens (ie a low f value) can give you some excellent low light shots that the 18-250mm will never do in low light.

Let me sum up.

- the Tamron 18-250mm (and its sibbling Pentax DA18-250mm) is an excellent all-around lens. One of the best in its class across all brands, with a very nice focal length range (18-250mm) - Keep your lens

- The main real weakness of the 18-250mm is the low light. (I have the DA18-250mm and I experienced it myself).

- Your 16-45 ED F4 lens is not a low light lens and will not complement the 18-250mm in low light. You need a fast prime lens

- A fast prime lens with a large aperture (ie low f number) will provide you with some excellent low light photography. I would recommend a lens with aperture f 1.4 or f1.2.

Hope that the comment will help you.....

10-17-2010, 01:04 AM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by hcc Quote
You already received some solid advice.

I have a Voigtlander Nokton 58mm f1.4 to complement my DA18-250mm in low light conditions. (The choice was based upon some excellent advice that I received in his forum and I am very grateful.) Last month, I shot some breaking waves on the coast at sunset. After 19:15, it became too dark for the DA18-250mm for any good quality shots, and the shots taken after 19:20 were unuseable, even at ISO 6400.

On the other hands, I was able to use my Nokton 58mm until 20:00 when it was almost pitch black. Until 19:50 I was shooting at ISO 400 or less. (The lense was in A mode and my K-7 camera was in P mode.) What a difference ! A fast lens (ie a low f value) can give you some excellent low light shots that the 18-250mm will never do in low light.

Let me sum up.

- the Tamron 18-250mm (and its sibbling Pentax DA18-250mm) is an excellent all-around lens. One of the best in its class across all brands, with a very nice focal length range (18-250mm) - Keep your lens

- The main real weakness of the 18-250mm is the low light. (I have the DA18-250mm and I experienced it myself).

- Your 16-45 ED F4 lens is not a low light lens and will not complement the 18-250mm in low light. You need a fast prime lens

- A fast prime lens with a large aperture (ie low f number) will provide you with some excellent low light photography. I would recommend a lens with aperture f 1.4 or f1.2.

Hope that the comment will help you.....
+1. i gave away my 18-250 to my nephew for the reasons you expressed. miss it but my photography has gone in another direction and the nephew loves it.

I would add that it isn't just taking hte picture, my FA50 f1.4 will lock on a focus at night when my eyes can't focus manually due to the dim lights, and a F2.8 lens also refused to focus. Nothing like a really fast lens when it gets very dim.
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