[sterretje]

I took photos one day and the next morning the camera told me that there were no photos; card did not leave the camera in that time-frame. I have used photorec with success to recover them.

[Ken T]

I suppose the prudent thing to do is reformat the card in the camera at this point.

Agree, I would reformat the card and take some test shoots to check it first .

[Muse]

I just formatted the card in the camera, took it with the Pentax-A f1.7 50mm prime to my local produce supermarket and snapped 59 shots. Came out fine, AFAIK.

[jolepp]

Although renaming the folder on the computer, of course, shouldn't cause the loss of its contents I suppose this could happen if the camera and computer have different ideas of the implementation of the FAT filesystem. This, in turn, could be as FAT is a "de-facto", not a "proper", formal standard.

For this reason (*) I'm in the habit of formatting the card in the camera every time I've copied its contents to the computer. This way, the camera always gets to work with a mint file system that matches its idea of a proper implementation. This, of course, takes care of implemention differences only until the card is put in the computer, at which point one should avoid any operations that result in writing on the card (such as a folder rename) at least until all the pictures are safely on the hard disk. As a safety measure in this respect one could have the card write-protect switch in the read-only position while the card is in the computer.

(*) Also, this way I don't have to keep track of whether particular images have been copied already, which is practically impossible with large cards / in the long run anyway.

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Last edited by jolepp; 10-16-2010 at 05:51 AM. Reason: typo fix

[jolepp]

Although renaming the folder on the computer, of course, shouldn't cause the loss of its contents I suppose this could happen if the camera and computer have different ideas of the implementation of the FAT filesystem. This, in turn, could be as FAT is a "de-facto", not a "proper", formal standard.

For this reason (*) I'm in the habit of formatting the card in the camera every time I've copied its contents to the computer. This way, the camera always gets to work with a mint file system that matches its idea of a proper implementation. This, of course, takes care of implemention differences only until the card it put in the computer at which point one should avoid any operations that result in writing on the card (such as a folder rename) at least until all the pictures are safely on the hard disk. As a safety measure in this respect one could have the card write-protect switch in the read-only position while the card is in the computer.

(*) Also, this way I don't have to keep track of whether particular images have been copied already, which is practically impossible with large cards / in the long run anyway.

[jolepp]

Also, while on the subject I'd say that it is extra important to remove the card properly with cameras: turn the camera off and wait the card access indicator to stay off for a couple of seconds. Camera file system implementations are likely to be agressively optimized for write speed for video recording and maximum fps in "drive mode". As a part of this it makes sense to cache all filesystem bookkeeping operations, such as updating the FAT data structure which records, essentially, which physical data blocks and in which order go to each file. For maximum write troughput writing the cached bookkeeping information to card would be delayed to the last possible moment, which would be the time the power switch is put in the off position. If the card is removed before this, the data making up the pictures might very well be on the card, while the bookkeeping information is still in the camera's memory only and therefore, in practice, all pictures taken since the camera was turned on could be lost without a trace.

Of course, one would assume that the camera has a reasonable policy of flushing its caches (e.g. when it goes to power save), but as long as this is not known for sure, one can turn off the camera at a convenient times and wait for the card access indicator to go off before switching on again to make sure all data has in fact been written to the card.

[Stringmike]

Some time ago, I discovered that counterfeit or bogus items were being widely made and shipped from China. (Don't ask!)

The most common bogus items are batteries (cheap carbon cells labeled to look like branded alkaline) and memory cards. The trick they do with memory cards is to use either faulty rejects or small cards with embedded software to make them look functional and bigger! The result is that they sometimes don't work or lose data. The most common distribution method for these counterfeit items is eBay, although they have found their way into stores.

I buy my memory cards and batteries these days only from Costco and would recommend finding a reputable local dealer rather than buying online.

Mike

[shadmanaj]

I use an ADATA 16GB from Newegg on my K-x. I haven't had any issues at all with my K-x.
However, while using chinese memery cards on my cell phones, I faced those problems a few times. Using reliable brands ever since. Check your SDHC card's documentation, and file a complaint asking for a replacement.

[Muse]

I use an ADATA 16GB from Newegg on my K-x. I haven't had any issues at all with my K-x.
However, while using chinese memery cards on my cell phones, I faced those problems a few times. Using reliable brands ever since. Check your SDHC card's documentation, and file a complaint asking for a replacement.

I'm nervous now about the card. I'll look into replacement. However, in a few days I'm going on a trip and the card will be my only option unless I pick up something else quickly. I'll have my fingers crossed. These won't be test shots!

Edit an hour or so later:

I just ordered an 8GB ADATA Class 10 card, this order again through Supermediastore.com. Good prices, plus they just gave me a 5% coupon when I dissed their PQI 8GB Class 10 card (the one this thread is about) in a review! Well, I can't blame the store. PQI's site appears to indicate a lifetime warranty for their secure digital cards manufactured within the last few years, so I suppose I'll initiate an RMA with them eventually. Meantime I need a card for next weekend, and figure I'll receive this probably Thursday using standard free shipping for this item, so I'll have a card that I'll have more confidence in than the PQI. I could have gotten a Kingston 8GB Class 10 card there but it would have cost about 3x as much. I'm going cheap again, hope I don't regret it.

Edit 2: I decided to cancel the order. Both reviews for this card at Amazon say it's dog slow, slower than a class 2 card, said one!

[jolepp]

Transcend is a bit cheaper brand that has worked for me: I currently use a 16GB class 6 one with the k-x. It is fast enough for video so I'd expect it to be fast enough in general, as I don't think there currently are cards that could maintain a write speed fast enough to shoot in "drive mode" until card space is exhausted anyway (?).

Testing a card on the computer before putting them in real use helps build confidence in a specific card/brand (or gives a reason to return a defective one). I do a couple of cycles with the Linux utility "badblocks" for this, I would assume that there would be something similar for Windows (/Mac) as well (?).

Another reason why things might go wrong with a memory card - BTW - would be using a sub-standard (cheap) card reader on the computer, if one does anything that writes on the card. Even an El-Cheapo reader should be safe with the card tab in the write protect position, though.

[Muse]

I wasn't using a card reader, well, not an external one but the one that came installed in my AS6530-6522 laptop, bought August 2009. Well, until I buy another I'm limited to the PQI 8GB "Class 10" unless I want to use either of my Kingston 250MB SD cards. They only have room for about 45 5.5MB JPGs, however. The way I've been shooting, I'd fill a 250MB card in less than an hour, easy. I'll do some serious homework (likely) before buying another card.

[SpecialK]

Transcend is a bit cheaper brand that has worked for me: I currently use a 16GB class 6 one...

Me, too. $34 at Amazon, w reader.

[chalion]

I tend to stay away from the cheaper cards or if they have more bad reviews than good ones. I do use class 4 and class 6 cards in my K200D & K20D (kingston and transcend). I also buy them at retail outlets near me so if I have any problems I can go to that store and yell (politely!) at the manager. I do pay more than if I bought them online, but to me my pictures are worth it.

[jolepp]

I wasn't using a card reader, well, not an external one but the one that came installed in my AS6530-6522 laptop,
...
I'll do some serious homework (likely) before buying another card.

The integrated readers tend to be ok (computer manufacturer QA, no doubt), and if there was a systematic problem I'd expect to find about it on the Internet. I have seen several examples of doggy external (USB) ElCheapos, with which my testing of a card (see above) has consistently failed, but using the same card in other readers has proven the card itself ok. (Once upon a time I was working with an embedded system prototype firmware which had an SD/MMC interface, and with this got quite a bit of hands-on experience of SD cards and readers. After seeing all sorts of failures with the cards (& external readers) I've tested my cards / usb-sticks before putting them into any important use for peace of mind :-)

[II Akcay]

I'm having the same issue on my K-x constantly, on more than on Sandisk 1, 4 and 8 gb cards. I almost always take pix that my PC just says can't view file etc... I'm def no expert, but I know i've taken these photos... and they just dissapear it seems